Birds of Uganda – Book Review

Whether you are a visitor to Uganda or a resident, there is undoubtedly one aspect of the country that most people notice, and that’s the birds. Uganda boasts over 1000 species and with so many different birds flitting about, the identification process can be overwhelming, especially for a novice.  Field guides do offer a good reference, but nothing can beat a photograph for capturing all the little details and helping distinguish what just whizzed past you.

Birds of Uganda is full colour photographic book that is intended as a companion to your field guide. The book is a helpful reference as well as a lovely book to grace your coffee table.  Authors Quentin Meunier and Sherry McKelvie have invested a lot of passion into creating this book and that is clearly visible on each and every page.

 The 412-page book features 900 images of 280 different species of birds.  The basic concept of the book is to give an introduction to Uganda’s birdlife and is intended to be used alongside a field guide.  The book begins by outlining the major birding sites and wetland areas throughout Uganda.  Following that, each species featured in the book is represented by several photographs and captioned with brief descriptions.  The names of the birds are listed on each page in six languages, English, Latin, French, German, Spanish and Italian, with Japanese, Mandarin and Russian translations at the back of the book.  The index also includes the six languages which makes this such a great reference for so many people.

What I find so enjoyable about the photos, is that they showcase the birds in different situations - whether it be in flight, fishing, eating or a specific behaviour typical of that species. For me that’s what makes the book so spectacular.  If you’re in the field watching a bird long enough, you will experience what is on the pages of the book.  The images get close up and show detail that really will enrich your birding experience.  As a birder myself, I find Birds of Uganda to be a visual feast for the eyes.  Although I can identify many of the species in the book, I enjoy the moments that it has captured. The book is great to leaf through and indulgence in the sheer beauty of birds.   The next time I gazed through my binoculars, after looking through the book, I saw details about birds I had not noticed before.

Industry professionals are eagerly anticipating the book.  I spoke with Mr Sam Mugisha of BIC Tours, who caters especially for Japanese clients.  He is very excited about the release of the book and said “he is delighted to have a bird book on Ugandan birds that is aimed at increasing Bird Tourism in Uganda, and even more pleased that it will have the names of the birds in 9 languages, including Japanese, Mandarin and Russian!”  The book is a beautiful visual representation of the diversity that Uganda has to offer and will be something that many people will take pleasure in owning.

I'm not into birds you say? Well, there is no better starting point than this book!  Once you flip through the pages and see the vast array of colourful beauty of the avian species living around you, I can assure you that you may start to have a whole new inquisitive reaction as to what is making the branches on that tree in your garden move.  Or, what bird is singing that beautiful song at first light every morning. Birding is an activity that can be enjoyed by anyone, of any age, anywhere you go.

Birds of Uganda is a well presented book and will no doubt be in great demand.  It makes for a perfect gift, souvenir or a companion on your safari.  Books are expected to hit store shelves early in 2015 and will be available from most bookshops or can be ordered directly from Sherry +256 772 200 950

Bakers Lodge - Murchison Falls NP

For nearly a decade, Exclusive Camps and Lodges have been well-known for offering high quality lodges in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest NP (Buhoma Lodge) and Ishasha, Queen Elizabeth NP (Ishasha Wilderness Camp).  Recently, their newest addition has opened its doors in the ever popular Murchison Falls NP and it is no surprise that it boasts the same “wow” factor as the other lodges.  Situated on the south bank of the mighty Nile River, guests can sit at eye level to the river and watch as it gently flows by.  The proximity to the Nile River is what sets this lodge apart from all others.  All that lies between the lodge and one of the most famous rivers of all time is sprawling grass and large shade trees.  Bakers Lodge offers a Nile River experience like no other.

The lodge is named after the British explorer Samuel Baker, who is famous for his exploration of the Nile.  Late in the 1800’s Samuel and his wife Florence spent time around the area during their expedition of the river.  Samuel Baker was the first European to view and subsequently name the Murchison Falls.  In keeping with this theme, the decor of the lodge is reminiscent of the exploration era.  Wood, leather and canvas are abundant in the main lodge area which is a large wooden deck raised up off the ground.  There are several large sofas and chairs to relax in and enjoy the view, read a book or just to sit and contemplate just where you are in the world.  A large portion of the main lodge is covered with a thatch roof with an open air deck on each side.  The bar stocks wines and a selection of spirits as well as water, soda and local beer which is kept cold via their eco friendly solar powered energy system.

Accommodation at Bakers Lodge is individual cottages elevated off the ground.  The very spacious en-suite cottages have large netted windows on all sides for an open airy feeling.  Each cottage is positioned with consideration of privacy from others, has a wooden deck off the front and a view of the river, a great place to sip on your morning cup of coffee or tea.  The cottages are furnished with wooden furniture, a writing desk and chair, beds with side tables, lockable safe, and an open wardrobe for clothes and is lit with solar lighting.

The large netted windows on the front of the cottage roll up for an unobstructed view of the river.  The beds have been designed to sit up in comfortably to enjoy the view.  I sat on my bed for quite some time with my binoculars, enjoying the bird life and the view while listening to the grunts of hippos.  I felt like I was watching a large HDTV and had to pinch myself that what I was watching was real.  It was awesome!

The cottages are self contained with a large bathroom, flushing toilet and running water.  Double sinks sit on top of a spacious wooden table with a mirror hanging above.  The shower is open and faces the view so while you are washing off the dust of the day, you can revel in the amazing view.  Hot water in the bathroom is provided by a solar energy system.

Every evening, just before sunset a fire is lit between the main lodge and the river.  It’s a great place to sit with a cold drink, watch the last of the day light fade away, reflect on your day, watch the stars in the sky slowly come to life and cherish another day in Africa.  The campfire is a great place to interact with other guests and swap safari stories.  The ever attentive staff is never far away to take your drink orders so you don’t have to leave the magic and the ambiance of the fire.  Once dinner is ready, the staff show you to your table, top up your drinks and begin the dinner service.

The food at Bakers Lodge was nothing short of amazing.  All of the meals we had were delicious and plentiful.  We started our mornings with a wake up call at our cottage followed by a freshly brewed cup of coffee on our verandah.  As we sat and enjoyed the dawn of a new day, many species of birds were fishing and hunting in the nearby wetland next the river while agama lizards chased each other to protect their territory on the ground and in the trees around us.  Breakfast is served in the main lodge and cooked as per your order along with fresh fruit, cereal, cold meats and cheeses, coffee, tea and fresh juice served buffet style. We had our three course lunch al fresco in the shade of a large tree on the deck of the main lodge.  As the gentle breeze blew we enjoyed both the view and the food.  After some sundowners around the fire, we had a four course dinner under a blanket of stars on the deck.  As we savoured a salad course, soup course, main course and dessert, we talked about our day and made plans for the next while listening to the night sounds of crickets, frogs, hippos.  The dinner atmosphere at Bakers Lodge was magical and a perfect way to end a day.

Getting to Bakers Lodge, you have a choice of routes once you reach Masindi town which is 215 kilometres north of Kampala.  The most direct route is to enter Murchison Falls NP from the Kichumbanyobo gate which takes you through the south side of the park through the Kaniyo Pabidi forest.  A longer but more scenic route passes through Budongo forest before descending into the rift valley next to Lake Albert.  This route gets you to the lodge without entering the national park as Bakers Lodge sits just outside of the Bugungu gate.  The lodge is well marked with signposts at the entrance, so it’s easy to find.

Murchison Falls National Park is the largest park in Uganda and offers plenty of activities for visitors.  The park is home to elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, giraffe, hyena, jackal, hippos and the Nile crocodiles which are reputed to be “huge”.  The park is well known for its diverse bird population, including the most sought after and unique resident, the shoebill.

A variety of boat excursions can be done on the Nile river.  The waterfall cruise travels up the Nile River to the base of Murchison Falls which is a spectacular sight.  Along the way you can view many species of birds, mammals near the shore that are coming to the water to drink and crocodiles both in and out of the water.  The delta cruise travels down the Nile River to the Victoria Nile Delta where the bird life is prolific and is the best place to search for the shoebill.  If you’re ready for a fishing experience like none other, you can bait your hooks in anticipation for a mighty Nile Perch.  Fishing safaris with an experienced guide and equipment are a popular activity in the area.

All of the boat activities operate daily and can be arranged through Bakers Lodge which has its own fleet of boats and can pick you up from the lodge for the various excursions.  Special arrangements can also be made for breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks or sundowners on board. You can also make your safari more interesting by combining the boats and a safari drive.  Cruise down the Nile River to the delta by boat at sunrise to experience the area from the water and then return with a game drive through the Buligi area which offers a number of tracks and where wildlife abounds.

Chimpanzee trekking can be done in the nearby Budongo forest where you can observe chimpanzees in their natural habitat as well as other primates such a black and white colobus monkeys.  This gentle walk through the forest is an amazing way to experience the sounds of an equatorial tropical rainforest.

For me, the highlight of my stay at Bakers Lodge was the proximity to the river and the spectacular views of it from anywhere around lodge.  I loved the slightly elevated bird’s eye 180 degree river views from the wooden deck of the main lodge and from my cottage the front roll up floor to ceiling large window was pure indulgence.  Lying comfortably on the bed, gazing at the river and listening to the birds, every tension in my entire body melted away.

If you are planning a trip to Murchison Falls NP, throw yourself back into the time of exploration at Bakers Lodge.  Sit in luxury on the banks of the Nile River and imagine what it was like for Samuel Baker to discover this amazing part of Uganda.
For more information and reservations:
Uganda – Wild Frontiers Exclusive Camps & Lodges
PO Box 619, Entebbe, Uganda
Tel/Fax: +256 414 321 479
Mobile: +256 772 721 155
Email: reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
www.ugandaexclusivecamps.com

Big Birding Day - Results

White Backed Night Heron This years Big Birding Day in Uganda was the biggest and most successful to date. Although several species seemed to elude us during the 24 hour period, Team Jinja had a great day counting 133 species which put us in 8th place (official results). Congratulations to all who participated and especially to the winners! Highlights of the Day Seeing the White Back Night Heron, a tick for most of the team. Seeing two Crowned Eagles flying overhead. Finally finding an African Jacana, a common bird that had eluded us most of the day.
RECORDED SPECIES
Pink Backed Pelican Long tailed Cormorant African Darter Great Cormorant Little Bittern White Backed Night Heron Striated Heron Cattle Egret Little Egret Great Egret Purple Heron Grey Heron Black Headed Heron Yellow Billed Stork Hamerkop African Open Billed Stork Marabou Stork Sacred Ibis Hadada Ibis Black Kite Palm Nut Vulture African Fish Eagle Hooded Vulture Lizard Buzzard Shikra African Harrier Hawk Long Crested Eagle African Crowned Eagle Helmeted Guineafowl Black Crake African Jacana Water Thick Knee Rock Pratincole Spurwing Lapwing Common Sandpiper Gull Billed Tern White Winged Tern Speckled Pigeon Tambourine Dove Blue Spotted Wood Dove Ring Necked Dove Red Eyed Dove Laughing Dove African Grey Parrot Great Blue Turaco Eastern Grey Plantain Eater African Cuckoo Yellowbill White Browed Coucal African Palm Swift Speckled Mousebird Pied Kingfisher Giant Kingfisher Woodland Kingfisher Malachite Kingfisher African Pygmy Kingfisher Little Bee Eater White Throated Bee-eater Crowned Hornbill Black and White Casqued Hornbill Yellow Throated Tinkerbird Speckled Tinkerbird Yellow Fronted Tinkerbird Yellow Spotted Barbet Hairy Breasted Barbet Double Toothed Barbet Yellow Billed Barbet Angola Swallow Barn Swallow African Pied Wagtail Yellow Wagtail Common Bulbul Yellow Whiskered Greenbul Little Greenbul Red Tailed Greenbul Yellow Throated Greenbul White Throated Greenbul White Browed Robin Chat Yellow Longbill Winding Cisticola Grey Capped Warbler Tawny Flanked Prinia Grey Backed Camaroptera Buff Throated Apalis Northern Black Flycatcher Swamp Flycatcher Brown Throated Wattle Eye Chestnut Wattle Eye Red Bellied Paradise Flycatcher African Paradise Flycatcher African Blue Flycatcher White Shouldered Tit Yellow White Eye Olive Bellied Sunbird Green Throated Sunbird Green Sunbird Little Green Sunbird Scarlet Chested Sunbird Red Chested Sunbird Collared Sunbird Grey Backed Fiscal Black Headed Gonolek Northern Puffback Piapiac Pied Crow Western Black Headed Oriole Ruppell's Long Tailed Starling Splendid Starling Grey Headed Sparrow Black Headed Weaver Black Necked Weaver Grosbeak Weaver Golden Backed Weaver Slender Billed Weaver Little Weaver Yellow Backed Weaver Orange Weaver Weynes's Weaver Yellow Mantled Weaver Black Bishop Fan Tailed Widowbird White Breasted Negrofinch Grey Headed Negrofinch Red Cheeked Cordon Bleu Red Billed Firefinch African Firefinch Black Crowned Waxbill Bronze Mannikin Black and White Mannikin Pin Tailed Whydah Village Indigobird Brimstone Canary Yellow Fronted Canary	Sunrise over Bujagali Lake
	Striated Heron
	On Bujagali Lake
	Little Egret
	Pied Kingfishers
	Birding on Bujagli Lake
	Africa Open Billed Stork

Some children we met that were fascinated by our spotting scope

Immature Fish Eagle

Big Birding Day Uganda

The 2012 Big Birding Day to take place in Uganda is nearly here with this years event set for October 20th. Birders from all around the country are getting ready to record as many species as they can within the 24 hour period.  The main purpose of Big Birding Day is to raise awareness of bird species within Uganda and to promote the country as one of the best birding destinations in the world.


This is the first year that we are involved in the event.  We will be doing our species count from the Jinja area and will be joined by several other birders to compete as "TEAM JINJA" in Big Birding Day 2012.  The event should be a lot of fun and we're excited to see just how many species we will be able to record.  We will post a full report after the event.  Stay tuned and happy birding!

To register your own team contact Nature Uganda
http://www.natureuganda.org/bbd2012.php

For news and updates on Big Birding Day, follow the hash tag #BBD on Twitter

Ngamba Island

Most of us encounter numbers, statistics and percentages on a daily basis but may not realize that small numbers can mean big differences.  Chimpanzees for example differ from humans by only 1.3% of their DNA makeup; small number, big difference starting with the fact that I drive a car and that I’m writing this article.  To learn more about our closest relatives I visited the Ngamba Island chimpanzee sanctuary.



Ngamba Island is 23km from the shores of Entebbe on Lake Victoria and is operated by the Chimpanzee Sanctuary and Wildlife Conservation Trust (CSWCT) an NGO formed in 1998 as a conservation effort.  Ngamba Island was purchased to provide a home for rescued chimpanzees and to create awareness of their plight.  There are a number of factors contributing to the decreasing chimpanzee population including human encroachment on their natural habitat, deforestation, consumption of bush meat and the pet trade.

Ngamba Island is 100 acres divided into a 95 acre forest habitat for the chimpanzees and the remaining 5 acres as an eco friendly area for staff, veterinary facilities and guest amenities.  Currently there are 44 chimpanzees that inhabit the sanctuary that have been confiscated either from illegal trading or found being kept as pets.  When confiscated they are generally in bad condition and in need of medical attention.   Before being placed on the island, they are kept in quarantine at the Uganda Wildlife Education Centre for several months and nursed back to health before being moved to Ngamba to become part of a social group of chimpanzees living in a safe environment.  Four recently confiscated chimpanzees are currently in quarantine and will be transported to the island in the coming months.  The sanctuary provides an opportunity for guests to observe the chimpanzees, learn how they are cared for at the facility as well as what is being done to conserve the species in their natural habitat.  Ngamba does not participate in a breeding program but focuses on providing a good life for the rescued chimpanzees while ensuring the survival of the species in the wild through various community projects.

My husband and I plan for an overnight visit to Ngamba.  We leave Kampala early in the morning, drive to Entebbe and board a motorized Ssesse canoe from the jetty at the Uganda Wildlife Education Centre. The trip can also be made with a speedboat to make the journey quicker.  The Ssesse canoe was plenty big for the few of us that were on it and was equipped with life jackets and other safety equipment.  The skies were clear, the sun was shining and the lake was calm making for a very pleasant journey to the island.  During the 1 ½ hour journey we saw fisherman and various species of water birds.  When we arrived on the island we were welcomed by the sanctuary staff that introduced us to the facilities and told us more about the CSWCT and their projects.  The 95 acre forest habitat does not provide enough food for the resident chimpanzees and is therefore supplemented with four meals a day.  Visitors witness the feedings and your length of stay will determine how many feedings you see.  After our orientation to Ngamba it is time to see the 11am feeding.  Together with the caretakers, we walk to the viewing platform where the chimpanzees are already waiting for their meal.
The wooden viewing platform is approximately 3 metres off the ground and is accessed by stairs.  Between the platform and the chimpanzee habitat is a 6 metre electrified fence.  Some guests see this as obtrusive and awkward for photographs, however it is there for guests’ security and safety.  Ngamba Island is all about the experience of having a close encounter with chimpanzees which the viewing platform provides.  Several of the chimpanzees start to make a lot of noise and we realize it is because some of the caretakers are approaching the platform with buckets of food.  The food consisting of various fruits and vegetables is thrown over the fence as we watch them catch it, eat it, squabble with each other over it and collect as much as they can in their hands.  Some are greedier than others and this probably has to do with their status in the hierarchy.  It is fascinating to observe the chimpanzees up close and watch their behaviour and interactions with each other.  The most incredible thing to see was a chimpanzee using a stick to collect food that had fallen just outside of the fence.  Soon after the food is finished, the chimpanzees’ disappear into the forest and although they can no longer been seen, they are often heard.

Since we were overnight guests on the island we were shown to our accommodation, a large canvas tent on a wooden platform, overlooking the lake.  Inside were two single beds, a desk and an en suite bathroom equipped with a self contained marine type toilet and a shower.  There was no running water inside the tent but water was provided in clay vessels and warm water in a flask for hand washing.  Camp showers were available upon request and delivered to the room either hot or cold.  The large partially covered veranda with comfortable chairs was a great place to relax.  The accommodation was clean and comfortable however there were a few things that we noticed that needed some maintenance such as the handrails and the shower pressure.  The tent next to the one we stayed in had been removed for maintenance so it did appear that the issues were recognized and being worked on.  These things didn’t detract from a comfortable night on the island.

We had three meals during our stay from their preset menu.  For lunch we were served pasta Bolognese and fresh fruit.  Dinner was fresh poached tilapia served with cumin rice and carrots followed by banana fritters for dessert.  Breakfast was eggs cooked any style served with sausage, bacon and juice.  Coffee and tea were available all day along with a variety of cold sodas and beer.

The benefit of an overnight stay is that you have the opportunity of more time with the chimpanzees.  We were able to experience the chimpanzees coming back into their enclosure at dusk and receive an evening meal of porridge served in bowls from which they drink.  Once they have finished their porridge they carefully give the bowl back to the caretakers.  This was amazing to watch and experience.  After their evening meal the chimpanzees took handfuls of straw, climbed to the top of their enclosure and made nests inside net hammocks strung from the ceiling and settled in for the night.  In the morning the chimpanzees were eager to get into the forest for the day and we watch as they are released from the enclosure.  After they are let out, the caretakers get to work on cleaning the enclosure and preparing it for their return in the evening.  There are other activities that you can take part in including being a caretaker for a day and an integration walk in the forest with a few selected chimpanzees early in the morning before the others are released.  These both sound like amazing experiences but require proof of specific vaccinations and a health check prior to your arrival on the island.  Check with the CSWCT at the time of booking to confirm requirements and fees for these activities.

In terms of value for money, you will get the best experience by staying overnight resulting in more time with the chimpanzees.  Half day trips may entail more travelling time to and fro than you actually are spending on the island itself so a full day trip may be more worthwhile.  The staff and caretakers are extremely knowledgeable and are able to answer any questions you may have during your visit.  The island is also home to over 130 recorded bird species and a large population of monitor lizards, more than I have ever seen in one place at one time, so it is a worthwhile place to relax and enjoy all that the island has to offer.

Before my visit to Ngamba Island, I knew very little about chimpanzees and had never experienced close observation of them.  I appreciated my time with the chimpanzees, the passionate staff of CSWCT and all that I learned about this endangered species.

INFORMATION & BOOKINGS
Chimpanzee Sanctuary & Wildlife Conservation Trust - CSWCT
+256772221880 or +256414320662
www.ngambaisland.org

Bujagali Memories

In late 2011 the headwaters of the Nile River were flooded in preparation for the launch of the Bugagali Dam.  The area has become the reservoir for the new dam which began operation in February 2012.  This past weekend we had our first opportunity to see the headwater region since the flooding.  The water has risen several metres taking with it a number of rapids that used to be a part of The Nile including the famous grade 5 rapids Bujagali Falls.  At the moment things look slightly awkward as the rising water has engulfed the area.  Trees that once grew from the islands are now merely tree tops slowly succumbing to their new environment.  The immense sound of the water crashing can no longer be heard making the area very peaceful.  The reservoir now known as Lake Bujagali has the potential to become a hotspot for birding and sport fishing.  Looking down the river the Bujagali Dam can be seen in the background along with transmission towers and cables that disappear into the horizon to help supply the nation with much needed electricity.  Although Bujagali Falls no longer exists we recalled the good times we've had and will cherish for years to come.

RAFTING Our first encounter with the mighty Bujagali Falls was in 2002 on a raft.  It was the first time either of us had been rafting and we obviously weren't meant to stay in that raft for long!  As we manoeuvred through Bujagali our raft bounced around before being lifted high into the air and overturning, leaving us swimming through the rapids looking for the fastest way to get back into the raft.
CAMPING NEXT TO BUJAGALI At the time we didn't realize that camping next to Bujagali Falls and falling asleep to the roar of the cascading water would be a limited time offer.  This was the first place that we ever camped in Uganda so obviously the place holds special memories.  We will never forget waking up to the calls of the African Fish Eagle, the cool crisp air and the mist over the river.
THE ENTERTAINMENT Lastly, how can we forget those daredevils that would delight tourists by "rafting" the falls clutching onto the handle of a 20 litre plastic jerry can.  Anxious spectators wondering if this was safe would contribute money and then watch as the skill full swimmers would throw themselves to the mercy of the river.  Jumping into the water and then plunging over the falls, disappearing underwater and then popping up slightly downstream.  Proud of their feat the daredevils would come running back with  toothless grins, I suppose there was the odd encounter with a rock, but they never bothered to mention that and were eager to do it again. That wasn't the only entertainment at Bujagali Falls.  Every morning people from the surrounding villages would come in droves to watch kayakers and rafts full of people traverse through the feisty water erupting in cheers when they were successful and watching with slight terror when rafts would flip. For many, this appeared to be a highlight of their day. Bujagail Falls, thanks for the memories!! Please note that although you can no longer raft Bujagali Falls, the opportunity to experience Grade 5 rafting on The Nile is still possible below the Bujagali Dam.  We're only wondering if this means we have to pluck up the courage to raft The Nile again.

A Little R&R on Lake Kivu at Palm Garden Resort

Not far from the town of Gisenyi, on the shores of Lake Kivu you will find Palm Garden Resort, a quiet, relaxing oasis with manicured gardens along with comfortable accommodation.  Lake Kivu is considered to be one of Africa’s great lakes, and lies in the Albertine Rift Valley sharing the border of Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.  The lake is surrounded by hundreds of hills and mountains and the Palm Garden Resort is situated on one of them.

We arrive at Palm Garden Resort and are surrounded by beautiful plants and shrubs.  We follow a path that leads us to the main lodge and restaurant.  It has a very relaxed feel with fishing nets draped from the ceiling and gourd light fixtures hanging between them.  Mountain bikes hang from the back wall, plants are climbing up the columns and brightly colored cloths cover the tables.  There are lounge chairs as well as dining tables so whether you are having a meal or just relaxing, there is a comfortable place to sit.  The area is terraced so no matter where you sit, you can see out through the giant palm trees providing a great panoramic view of Lake Kivu.  The covered open air structure allows the gentle lakeside breezes to flow through and the mood is very relaxing with a mix of classic rock and blues playing in the background.  The bar is fully stocked with local beers, sodas and spirits.  In the evening, the area is softly lit and a fire crackles nearby, which provides for a comfortable gathering place with great ambiance.

Just outside the main lodge, large steps lead down the hill into the garden full of palm trees and rolling green grass.  Off to one side of the large garden and near the lake is our room, a round volcanic stone bungalow with glass paned double doors and windows that look out through the garden and across the lake.  The room décor reminds us that we are on a tropical beach but with an African twist.  Vibrant curtains frame the windows and painted multicolored geometric shapes decorate the closet.  African print lampshades rest on top of clay lamp stands on either side of the king size bed which is truly fit for a king.  The bed has been built quite high off the ground which gives a very palatial feel.   The floor is scattered with mats and underneath the large picture window are gourds of various shapes and sizes.  The décor is simple yet makes a statement.  



The bathroom is stunning.  Whenever I get into a room, I take a quick look around and then head straight for the bathroom; I assume it’s probably a girl thing.  My jaw drops and I say to my husband, “you have to see this!”  Off the side of the bungalow accessed through a door is a large open air bathroom with a shower, toilet and sink.  The large showerhead has great pressure and is nothing short of luxury either for a cool down in the heat of the midday sun or a hot shower under the midnight stars.

Palm Garden Resort offers a number of different accommodation options ranging from bungalows, double and single rooms as well as a campsite which is high up on the hill providing brilliant views.  If you feel like camping closer to the water, you can camp on the sand underneath the shade of palm trees.

Lake Kivu has several species of fish and every night the fishermen take to the lake for a local delicacy "Isambaza".  At dusk fisherman head out to work on the lake, using a system of three large wooden boats spaced several metres apart that are tethered together with makeshift walkways.  The boats are equipped with long poles that extended off the bow and stern of each boat, that suspend lanterns and nets.  The nets are slung below into the water and the Isambaza are attracted to the light from the lanterns dangling above.  In the morning the fisherman paddle their way home singing in rejoice about their catch and hard work.  Their songs also announce to the buyers and brokers to get ready to trade.



We watch as the fishermen of the night head straight to the market landing site and sell to the eager buyers and brokers.  While listening to the singing fisherman, we sit on the grass at the water’s edge under a thatched umbrella sipping Rwandan coffee grown and harvested from the shores of Lake Kivu served in beautiful handmade pottery from a local co-operative.  The waiter came to take our breakfast order however he didn’t have a menu which created some confusion as to what was available for breakfast resulting mostly from a language barrier since we don’t speak French or the local language.  Once he brought a menu, we were able to point and make an order for omelets which came to our garden table quickly accompanied with toast, preserves and juice.  We did notice that this confusion was not a reflection of poor service as many others around us who were able to order in the local language had no problems.  This is a good reason for us to brush up on our French for our next trip there.

Lunch and dinner is a la carte. The menu isn’t overly large but does offer a nice variety and what is on offer is done very well.  We tried several dishes including the goat brochette, beef brochette, chips, steak with mushroom sauce and the whole grilled tilapia which was by far our favorite.  We have eaten whole tilapia many times before, but have never had it prepared like this.  We would go back again just for that dish alone.  The food is grilled over a fire and the resulting flavor is outstanding.  African dishes are also available such as ugali, fufu and the local delicacy Isambaza.  The staff is not always overly attentive however they are never far away and ready to serve, you may just need to ask or give a simple wave to get their attention.

Palm Garden Resort caters for a variety of activities for every level of ambition.  If you are looking to relax and unwind, the thatch umbrellas next to the lake are for you.  The main lodge is also a great place to relax.  We spent an entire afternoon on the lounge chairs enjoying the breeze and the gentle sounds of the music drifting from the speakers while gazing out onto Lake Kivu wondering what mysteries it holds.

For those looking to get out and about to explore the local sites, the resort has a boat that can take you to nearby hot springs which claim to have healing properties however the local people often use it for cooking food.  You can also arrange for scenic trips on the lake to enjoy the abundant bird life in the area.  The Primus brewery is just down the road from the resort within walking distance and offers tours.  

The owner of the lodge is a bike enthusiast and has a great selection of good quality mountain bikes that are available for guests to explore the surrounding area.  The trail head for the newly opened Congo Nile Trail is in Gisenyi, not far from the Palm Garden Resort so if you’re planning to hike or bike the trail, the resort is a great starting point.

Palm Garden Resort is only a few kilometers from the DRC border and outdoor enthusiasts may want to take the opportunity to hike Nyiragongo volcano, one of the most active volcanoes in Africa with a lava lake in the summit crater.  If a big hike, isn’t something you are interested in you can still experience Nyiragongo in a different way.  On a clear night you can walk to the top of the hill near the resort and see the glow from the lava lake.  Unfortunately the weather conditions did not allow for this during our visit.
Palm Garden Resort is one of the easiest going places that we have ever stayed.  Everything about the place is relaxing and comfortable with friendly staff and great food.  For your next holiday consider this tropical paradise that is sure to melt your tension and stress away while enjoying the heart of Africa.

Getting There
Palm Garden Resort is easily accessible from Kigali by either road (2 ½ to 3 hour drive) or by air (30 minute flight) as well as from Volcanoes National Park (1 hour drive), so whether you are looking for a weekend getaway or a place to relax after seeing the gorillas, you don’t have far to travel to get to Palm Garden Resort.

Booking Information
+250 788306830 / +250 788834800
info@mercatorassistance.rw or vedaste@mercatorassistance.rw