Mihingo Lodge

Mihingo Main Lodge

I was falling into a deep sleep when a noise woke me.  I’d thought I had heard the whinny of a zebra, but much to my surprise, I was at home in Kampala and it wasn’t a zebra I had heard.  Sigh, clearly my mind was still at Mihingo Lodge and rightfully so as it’s a spectacular place to be.  Perched high atop a rocky outcropping on the fringes of Lake Mburo National Park, Mihingo Lodge offers commanding views over the park.  Nestled into the bush, the lodge melts into the landscape and you feel you have become a part of the nature around you as Vervet monkeys chatter, cicadas buzz and Ross’s turacos engage in duets of comical cackling.  The lodge may be secluded but luxury is not spared here, Mihingo Lodge offers the finest that the bush has to offer.

The centrepiece of Mihingo is the main lodge, dining and bar area, a superb place to relax and take it all in.  With no Wi-Fi and no reminders of the daily grind, you can truly escape, here and soak up the magic of Mihingo.  Whether it is on a chaise lounge next to the infinity pool, on an oversized bean bag in the top of the tower that boasts 360 degree views or with a drink in the bar, the view never gets boring.  It’s better than any DVD or television documentary I’ve ever seen.  This is live view and it’s wonderful!  At times it’s hard to even imagine that the hustle and bustle of Kampala is just four hours away, as it feels like light years.

The view of Lake Mburo NP from the main lodge overlooking the infinity pool

In the bar, a large built in adobe style sofa curves around the granite rock protruding from the wall.  Books and other informational materials are piled up on a ledge while paraffin lanterns glow in little alcoves on the wall.  Head barman Michael will greet you with his big smile and serve you your drink of choice from the fully stocked bar.  Every evening the bar serves pre dinner nibbles during which time, you will be invited to join in one of the lodges most unique experiences, the opportunity to observe thick-tailed Gallagos commonly known as Bush Babies, in their natural environment.  Over the years, the Bush Babies have grown accustomed to guests and on most evenings visit the Bush Baby platform below the bar.  These fascinating little primates look like a curious combination of species and are just too cute for words.  As they move about, Mugisha who has been interacting with them for over 7 years will answer all your questions.  As he gives his answers, it’s obvious he has a deep passion for these quirky little creatures.  After eating a couple of banana pieces, the bush babies disappear back into the trees to forage for food during the night.

The bar and lounge area

A bush baby

Meals are served in the dining area located in between the bar and the lounge. The dining room overlooks a watering hole and salt lick so is not only a place to enjoy good food, but the wildlife and view as well. Mihingo Lodge’s delectable cuisine has been developed mostly from family recipes.  A fusion of flavours incorporating fresh produce and herbs makes the meals healthy and satisfying. An aquaponic garden on the property ensures that the food you eat if of the utmost freshness often times being picked only hours before and you can taste the difference.  Breakfast is a selection of fresh fruit, juice, cereal, muesli and yogurt.  Eggs are cooked to order and served with the sides of your choice (bacon, sausages, mushrooms, tomatoes and beans) alongside homemade toast.  Lunches and dinners are both three course meals.  Grilled aubergines, smoked Nile Perch, chilled avocado soup, beef vindaloo, chicken with tarragon, pan fried beef fillet, mango cream, chocolate brownie and key lime pie are some of the fabulous dishes we had during our stay.  Pair these with one of the wines from the wine list and you’re all set.  I really can’t overemphasize how good the food is at Mihingo Lodge, it was a highlight of our stay!  In the evenings a campfire is lit next to the dining area and is an exceptional place to sit out under the stars, let your dinner settle, have a night cap and listen to the hyenas whooping in the valley below.

A dining experience with a view

Mihingo Lodge consists of 12 luxury tented rooms on raised wooden decks under thatch roofs.  The large beige canvas bedroom has screened windows on all four sides for an open feeling and uninhibited views.  The spacious rooms are luxurious but they don’t scream pretentiousness, but rather gently whisper relax.  The rooms are tastefully decorated with leather furniture and local African crafts and fabrics.  Outside is a large partially covered veranda which has a daybed and a couple of chairs.  It’s inviting place to sit and gaze at the astonishing views.  Each of the tented rooms at Mihingo is unique and offers their own special view and experience.  There is plenty of space between the tented rooms so you can enjoy privacy and solitude.  Our first couple of nights were spent in Klipspringer (room 11) which was all about the sweeping views over the valley below and Lake Kacheera.  The room is situated next to large granite boulders that bulge out from the earth and sandwich a crevasse filled with water that attracts animals. The water filled crevice is completely covered by Nile cabbage and home to terrapins and a night time chorus of frogs.  On our first afternoon at Mihingo, our veranda turned into our own private viewing platform for an entire troop of monkeys getting up to their usual tomfoolery.  That night, the room lived up to its name “Klipspringer” when a family of 3 klipspringers ambled over the rocks, then tucked their legs underneath their bodies and lay down to spend the night there.  Not far from where they lay were two large waterbuck munching on the grass.  This is the kind of place that you really don’t want to go to sleep as you just might miss something.

Our tented room at Mihingo Lodge

Inside the tented room

Our last night was spent in Impala (room 10) which was more of a bush experience with its own private view of a salt lick.  As we relaxed with a book on the deck, impala, baboons, warthogs and bushbuck wandered to and from the lick. The tented rooms at Mihingo are extremely spacious and pleasant. The king sized bed is a comfortable place to lay your head at night and fall asleep listening to the night noises of the park.  Each room has a considerable sized ensuite bathroom with flushing toilet and alluring views that you can enjoy while you shower.

Mihingo Lodge has extended their accommodation options and is now offering self catering accommodation for groups and families in the Bush Camp.  The camp consists of one room with a double bed and ensuite solar hot water shower, 1 tent with a double bed, outdoor solar hot water shower and a long drop toilet and 1 tent designed for children with 4 single beds and outside shower and toilet.  Other facilities include a large sitting and dining room with veranda, fully equipped kitchen and a store room for food with solar powered chest fridge and chest freezer.  The camp is intended for groups to self cater their meals and drinks and access to the facilities of the lodge are not allowed.  However, activities offered by the lodge such as the horseback safaris, bike safaris and walking safaris can be booked by Bush Camp residents.  For more information on the camp or booking information, contact reservations@mihingolodge.com

Mihingo Lodge offers a variety of activities, more than can be taken in on a single visit, unless you want to extend your stay which I’m sure most every guest contemplates.  The watering hole and salt lick below the main lodge is engaging.  Animals wander in and out from the bushes into view to have a drink and a nibble on the salty soil.  If you want to get a closer look, a quick 15 minute walk from the lodge along a trail, you’ll find “The Hide”.  It’s a great spot to quietly sit for a while and observe the animals.  If you want to get even closer and don’t mind being in a small enclosure, venture a little further down the trail to “The Den”, a great spot for photographers.

Taking photographs inside "The Den"

Massage was an activity we couldn’t resist.  A short walk from the main lodge winds you through the giant boulders the lodge is built on, to a secluded room overlooking the park.  After a couple of days at Mihingo you wouldn’t think there would be any tension left, but the masseuse did seem to find a few lingering spots and gently massaged them away.  This is one massage room that doesn’t require a sound recording.  The breeze blew gently, birds chirped, and we relaxed.
After dinner a night drive is a great activity.  Either inside or outside of the park, it’s your best chance to see nocturnal animals such as owls, hyenas, leopards, white tail mongoose and nightjars.  The lodge has safari vehicles for hire that include a driver and guide.  The vehicle has open sides and spot lights to ensure your night drive is an unforgettable experience.

If you’re tired of being in a car, Mihingo Lodge offers a couple of unique safari experiences, horseback safaris and mountain biking safaris.  Horseback safaris are unique to Lake Mburo NP and are a great way to experience wildlife.  The animals are extremely relaxed around the horses which allow you to get close to them and often see some of the more timid ones up close such as eland.  Without the noise of a vehicle, you can really experience the sounds of nature.  We thoroughly enjoyed our horseback safari and as no previous experience on horses is required, anyone can participate.  The biking safaris will take you exploring the sandy paths around the lodge and riding alongside zebra, impala, warthog and other antelope.  This is great for people that are not comfortable on a horse, but still want to get out into nature.  As the terrain is not extreme, it's a good activity for the whole family.

Horseback Safari

Other activities offered by the lodge are walking safaris, cultural visits, game drives, kids bush courses and for running enthusiasts, a guided run through the community land.
Lake Mburo NP is reputed to be the best place in Uganda to see leopard with guests often spotting them on night game drives.  The leopard population does well in Lake Mburo NP due to the lack of competition from other predators.  Mihingo Lodge has recently started a leopard identification program to learn more about how many leopards are in the area and exactly where their territories are.  A book containing all the information collected to date is kept at the bar and vistor input is encouraged.  To date, 14 different leopards have been recorded and guests are welcome to share their photos along with information such as where the leopard was seen and the date.  It’s a fascinating book to flip through and includes photos, identifying characteristics and other information about each leopard.

A leopard seen on a night drive in Lake Mburo NP

Mihingo Lodge is committed to conservation and protecting the animals in and around the park.  Whenever humans and animals live in close proximity to each other, there is bound to be conflict.  During the time the lodge was built, an entire clan of spotted hyenas were poisoned by community members adjacent to the park.  This was the deciding factor that something should be done to reduce the conflict.  In 2008, the Mihingo Conservation and Community Development Foundation (MCCDF), a nonprofit organization was set up.  The primary goal of the MCCDF is to preserve wildlife outside of the park boundary and reduce the conflict between humans and animals.  They are accomplishing their goal through various means.  A compensation program for livestock killed by park predators has been very successful.  MCCDF also extends support to two primary schools in the area and have involved secondary students in the leopard identification program.  In the near future they are expanding their outreach to the community through various educational programs and the strengthening of animal enclosures where cattle are kept through the night so that animals are less vulnerable to predation.  The MCCDF is very aware that the more the local community is empowered and educated about the role of wildlife, the more eager they will be to protect and conserve it.  Iddy is the young woman in charge of the day to day operations and after chatting to her for only a couple of minutes her passion for everything wildlife and nature related is apparent.  She's extremely knowledgeable in her field and loves to share what she knows and answer questions.  She bubbles about the successes of MCCDF to date, but recognizes that it is an ongoing challenge, one she’s definitely up for.

A young zebra in Lake Mburo NP

Mihingo Lodge is without doubt a phenomenal place to stay, everything thing about it is chilled out luxury.  It is one of the few places in Uganda you actually be woken by the whinny of a zebra.  Don’t make the mistake of many and stay for only one night, stay longer.  Relax, stay awhile and immerse yourself in the magic of Mihingo.

Reservations & Booking Information
Mihingo Lodge
Tel. +256 752 410 509
Email: reservations@mihingolodge.com                          
Website: www.mihingolodge.com

A Little R&R on Lake Kivu at Palm Garden Resort

Not far from the town of Gisenyi, on the shores of Lake Kivu you will find Palm Garden Resort, a quiet, relaxing oasis with manicured gardens along with comfortable accommodation.  Lake Kivu is considered to be one of Africa’s great lakes, and lies in the Albertine Rift Valley sharing the border of Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.  The lake is surrounded by hundreds of hills and mountains and the Palm Garden Resort is situated on one of them.

We arrive at Palm Garden Resort and are surrounded by beautiful plants and shrubs.  We follow a path that leads us to the main lodge and restaurant.  It has a very relaxed feel with fishing nets draped from the ceiling and gourd light fixtures hanging between them.  Mountain bikes hang from the back wall, plants are climbing up the columns and brightly colored cloths cover the tables.  There are lounge chairs as well as dining tables so whether you are having a meal or just relaxing, there is a comfortable place to sit.  The area is terraced so no matter where you sit, you can see out through the giant palm trees providing a great panoramic view of Lake Kivu.  The covered open air structure allows the gentle lakeside breezes to flow through and the mood is very relaxing with a mix of classic rock and blues playing in the background.  The bar is fully stocked with local beers, sodas and spirits.  In the evening, the area is softly lit and a fire crackles nearby, which provides for a comfortable gathering place with great ambiance.

Just outside the main lodge, large steps lead down the hill into the garden full of palm trees and rolling green grass.  Off to one side of the large garden and near the lake is our room, a round volcanic stone bungalow with glass paned double doors and windows that look out through the garden and across the lake.  The room décor reminds us that we are on a tropical beach but with an African twist.  Vibrant curtains frame the windows and painted multicolored geometric shapes decorate the closet.  African print lampshades rest on top of clay lamp stands on either side of the king size bed which is truly fit for a king.  The bed has been built quite high off the ground which gives a very palatial feel.   The floor is scattered with mats and underneath the large picture window are gourds of various shapes and sizes.  The décor is simple yet makes a statement.  



The bathroom is stunning.  Whenever I get into a room, I take a quick look around and then head straight for the bathroom; I assume it’s probably a girl thing.  My jaw drops and I say to my husband, “you have to see this!”  Off the side of the bungalow accessed through a door is a large open air bathroom with a shower, toilet and sink.  The large showerhead has great pressure and is nothing short of luxury either for a cool down in the heat of the midday sun or a hot shower under the midnight stars.

Palm Garden Resort offers a number of different accommodation options ranging from bungalows, double and single rooms as well as a campsite which is high up on the hill providing brilliant views.  If you feel like camping closer to the water, you can camp on the sand underneath the shade of palm trees.

Lake Kivu has several species of fish and every night the fishermen take to the lake for a local delicacy "Isambaza".  At dusk fisherman head out to work on the lake, using a system of three large wooden boats spaced several metres apart that are tethered together with makeshift walkways.  The boats are equipped with long poles that extended off the bow and stern of each boat, that suspend lanterns and nets.  The nets are slung below into the water and the Isambaza are attracted to the light from the lanterns dangling above.  In the morning the fisherman paddle their way home singing in rejoice about their catch and hard work.  Their songs also announce to the buyers and brokers to get ready to trade.



We watch as the fishermen of the night head straight to the market landing site and sell to the eager buyers and brokers.  While listening to the singing fisherman, we sit on the grass at the water’s edge under a thatched umbrella sipping Rwandan coffee grown and harvested from the shores of Lake Kivu served in beautiful handmade pottery from a local co-operative.  The waiter came to take our breakfast order however he didn’t have a menu which created some confusion as to what was available for breakfast resulting mostly from a language barrier since we don’t speak French or the local language.  Once he brought a menu, we were able to point and make an order for omelets which came to our garden table quickly accompanied with toast, preserves and juice.  We did notice that this confusion was not a reflection of poor service as many others around us who were able to order in the local language had no problems.  This is a good reason for us to brush up on our French for our next trip there.

Lunch and dinner is a la carte. The menu isn’t overly large but does offer a nice variety and what is on offer is done very well.  We tried several dishes including the goat brochette, beef brochette, chips, steak with mushroom sauce and the whole grilled tilapia which was by far our favorite.  We have eaten whole tilapia many times before, but have never had it prepared like this.  We would go back again just for that dish alone.  The food is grilled over a fire and the resulting flavor is outstanding.  African dishes are also available such as ugali, fufu and the local delicacy Isambaza.  The staff is not always overly attentive however they are never far away and ready to serve, you may just need to ask or give a simple wave to get their attention.

Palm Garden Resort caters for a variety of activities for every level of ambition.  If you are looking to relax and unwind, the thatch umbrellas next to the lake are for you.  The main lodge is also a great place to relax.  We spent an entire afternoon on the lounge chairs enjoying the breeze and the gentle sounds of the music drifting from the speakers while gazing out onto Lake Kivu wondering what mysteries it holds.

For those looking to get out and about to explore the local sites, the resort has a boat that can take you to nearby hot springs which claim to have healing properties however the local people often use it for cooking food.  You can also arrange for scenic trips on the lake to enjoy the abundant bird life in the area.  The Primus brewery is just down the road from the resort within walking distance and offers tours.  

The owner of the lodge is a bike enthusiast and has a great selection of good quality mountain bikes that are available for guests to explore the surrounding area.  The trail head for the newly opened Congo Nile Trail is in Gisenyi, not far from the Palm Garden Resort so if you’re planning to hike or bike the trail, the resort is a great starting point.

Palm Garden Resort is only a few kilometers from the DRC border and outdoor enthusiasts may want to take the opportunity to hike Nyiragongo volcano, one of the most active volcanoes in Africa with a lava lake in the summit crater.  If a big hike, isn’t something you are interested in you can still experience Nyiragongo in a different way.  On a clear night you can walk to the top of the hill near the resort and see the glow from the lava lake.  Unfortunately the weather conditions did not allow for this during our visit.
Palm Garden Resort is one of the easiest going places that we have ever stayed.  Everything about the place is relaxing and comfortable with friendly staff and great food.  For your next holiday consider this tropical paradise that is sure to melt your tension and stress away while enjoying the heart of Africa.

Getting There
Palm Garden Resort is easily accessible from Kigali by either road (2 ½ to 3 hour drive) or by air (30 minute flight) as well as from Volcanoes National Park (1 hour drive), so whether you are looking for a weekend getaway or a place to relax after seeing the gorillas, you don’t have far to travel to get to Palm Garden Resort.

Booking Information
+250 788306830 / +250 788834800
info@mercatorassistance.rw or vedaste@mercatorassistance.rw

Luxury in Harmony with Nature - Kyambura Gorge Lodge

Perched on the hillside above Kyambura Gorge is a new gem in Uganda.  Volcanoes Kyambura Gorge Lodge offers astounding views over the Kyambura gorge, the plains of the Albertine Rift Valley, Queen Elizabeth National Park and the Rwenzori Mountains as the backdrop.  Whether you are going to Queen Elizabeth Park for a safari or to get away from the city, the lodge offers a quiet comfortable retreat abundant with natural beauty.

Main Lodge Building

We set off from Kampala early on a wet Saturday morning headed for Kyambura Gorge Lodge.  We drove via Masaka and Mbarara, although road construction was underway we experienced only short delays and a fantastic new road.  It didn’t stay cold and damp for long and by the time that we reached the equator, we were peeling off our sweaters.  The equator is always an enjoyable stop no matter how many times you have crossed over.  Uganda being one of less than 13 countries in the world that the equator passes through makes it an experience not to be missed.  As we drive past Lake Mburo National Park,

we see several zebra grazing near the road as well as many crested cranes.  The scenery through Bushyenyi is beautiful, the road meanders back and forth through tea plantations and more banana trees than you can imagine.  Soon we reach the top of the escarpment and stop at a viewpoint for a breathtaking view over the Albertine Rift Valley.  As we descend into the valley we turn off the main road and after a short distance arrive at our destination.

We are welcomed to Kyambura Gorge Lodge with big smiles and handshakes from a few of the people who we will see and interact with throughout our stay.  As our bags are unloaded we are drawn into the reception area and our eyes take in the creative African décor.  A woman offers us fresh juice and we are invited outside onto a large platform with views across the
plains.  As we marvel at the view we are given an introduction to the lodge, its facilities and history.   This contemporary eco-lodge is built on what was originally a coffee plantation.  Several buildings were carefully restored while others were newly constructed in keeping with the same style and feel as those restored.

The reception area gives us a small taste of what awaits us but now we are eager to see more.  We are led down a stone pathway that winds through the natural bush to our accommodation, an elevated wooden banda.  Each banda has its own unique name; we stayed in Emiti which means “tree”.  It is aptly named as it is built next to a very large old fig tree.  Just a few steps down off the main pathway we enter our banda onto a large covered area with a porch swing facing the views.  We step inside though a large sliding

Emiti

door.  Each banda embraces a different color theme and Emiti is yellow with splashes of it in various forms throughout the completely wooden room.  Inside there is a sitting area, a large built in window seat, 2 generous sized single beds with mosquitoes nets and a set of double doors that lead to a partially covered porch with a couple of appropriately colored chairs.  Through another wooden sliding door is a walk in closet with a built in wooden bench to sit on or store your bags on with a row of pegs and hangers above for clothes.  Inside the bench is a digital safe for keeping your valuables.  The closet is the bridge between the sleeping area and the bathroom. Everything about the bathroom is pure luxury. There is lots of space in between the double sinks, toilet, shower and another large built in window seat.  There is plenty of hot water for both of us to have showers at night and in the morning and the water pressure is excellent. Overall, the banda is spacious and filled with natural light.  It is obvious that a lot of thought has been put into the design unlike any place we’ve seen before.  Its luxury and comfort in harmony with nature.

Dining Room

The main lodge building was the original coffee store and processing plant and has been restored to a spacious oasis.  The large open space is divided into separate areas with unique room dividers which create different areas without losing the feeling of openness.  There are plenty of different chairs, sofa’s and seats to choose from, there is something for everyone.  If sitting inside isn’t for you, there is a large covered verandah. At the end of the day, we convene with our friends in the dining area of the main lodge. The large dining table is surrounding by an eclectic variety of dining chairs.  Around the table we talk about the day, discuss in length what we should do the next day, share stories of past safaris, laugh, cherish the joys of being in good company and enjoy a three course meal.  We are offered choices for the starter and the main course including vegetarian options.   My husband and I selected different options so that we could try everything.  We weren’t disappointed with any of our choices; the food was plentiful and delicious.  My pork chop was one of the best I’ve ever had and the meat was falling off the bone, served with creamy mashed potatoes and perfectly crunchy beans and carrots.  My husband’s coq au vin was tender and full of flavor served with roast potatoes and vegetables.  A very sticky rich toffee pudding was the final course served.  After a hot cup of tea we retired to our banda to fall asleep to the sound of the Kyambura River rushing below in the gorge.

The day starts before the crack of dawn with a knock on the door and a tray of hot coffee and fresh orange cake.  We relish in the warmth of the coffee before setting out into the cool crisp misty morning.  Before leaving on our morning drive we sit down to a cooked breakfast made to order served with fresh juice and toast while watching the darkness turn into daylight.  After a great breakfast we drive into the Queen Elizabeth National Park.   We’re not disappointed for the early start as we lay eyes on a lioness and

shortly thereafter a hyena.  After a successful and beautiful drive in Queen Elizabeth enjoying the wildlife and the African landscape we return to the lodge.  This gives us some time to relax on the verandah of the main lodge with a cold drink and see what we can find looking through the large spotting scope.  It’s not long before the staff beckons us to a set table to enjoy a light two course lunch of salad and vegetable couscous.  In the afternoon we take the boat trip on the Kazinga Channel and are treated with seeing a leopard, elephants, buffalo, hippo, crocodiles and numerous species of birds.  The day ends on a high since after nine years and dozens of game drives this is our first opportunity to see leopard.  With the sun starting to lower in the sky, we make it back to the lodge in time to see a beautiful sunset. The mood around the dining table tonight is exuberant.  Over a glass of wine and more delicious food we recall the highlights of the day.  We opted for game viewing in the park during our stay, however other activities nearby include trekking Chimpanzee’s, bird watching, walking and exploring the surrounding communities.

The next morning we are again woken with a knock and a tray of coffee and cake, only this time we are getting ready for a trip back to Kampala.  We feel like we have to tear ourselves away.  We don’t want to leave the comfort and quiet of this stunning lodge.  The hospitality that we have experienced over the last couple of days is second to none and with a heavy heart we climb into the car.  As we look out the window we see the entire staff of Kyambura Gorge Lodge including the kitchen staff smiling, waving and wishing us a safe journey.  As we drive away we hear lot’s of voices chiming “see you next time”.  It is without doubt they will be seeing us again!

At present there are four banda’s with a further four under construction and due to open in 2012.  When we visited the pool, changing rooms and massage room was still under construction but nearing completion and scheduled to open soon.

Booking Information
salesug@volcanoessafaris.com
+256 414 346464

Originally published in The Eye Magazine December-January 2012