Our Migration Safari, Masai Mara - Kenya

Several thousand wildebeest gathered on the bank of the Mara River, nervously milling around, pacing forward and backwards.  Slowly they moved closer to the rivers edge and then quickly retreated upon getting spooked by something in the water.  This cycle replayed over and over as the herd built up and the anticipation of a crossing heightened. Eventually two zebras without any hesitation marched into the muddy water and began to swim to the other side.  My heart raced.... will the others follow? Will the zebras survive? Phew, they made it, but the others didn’t follow.  The cycle started again and while we patiently waited we watched as crocodiles well camouflaged in the water swam closer into position.  After more than two hours of waiting, it came without warning that one wildebeest waded deeper and deeper into the river.  This time the others followed. Mayhem ensued!!

The start of the first river crossing we witnessed.

Driving through the Masa Mara National Reserve there were tens of thousands of wildebeest as far as the eye could see.  The migration was evident all around us, but what we really wanted to see was a river crossing.  I had no idea what to expect.  I had seen it on television many times but it didn’t prepare me for the real thing.  From the moment the first wildebeest entered the water and others followed, my heart raced. Soon after, I was overcome with emotion.  The sounds, the dust, the splashes, the cries, the chaos caused tears to flood down my face.  I found myself rooting for every animal to make it across even knowing that their death is life for the crocodiles.  I witnessed death before my eyes and it was hard.  The wildebeest driven by instinct, by life, by greener pastures.  No matter what I write here I can’t explain the power of witnessing this event.  I feel truly blessed for being able to witness it and recommend the opportunity to everyone that has the chance.  The migration truly is the greatest outdoor show on the planet!  The scene of a young wildebeest wandering on the banks after a crossing, looking and crying out for its mother, a lion dragging a young wildebeest it has just killed to the other members of its pride to eat, these scenes are real and a reminder of the circle of life.  Death is essential for life to carry on.  It is everything that the Great Migration is about.

The Mara River

A procession of wildebeest

River crossing

River crossing

River crossing

River crossing

River crossing

River crossing

A lioness dragging her wildebeest kill in the early morning after a river crossing

There was wildebeest as far as the eye could see across the plains of the Masai Mara

Over a hundred wildebeest taking shade under a tree in the heat of the midday sun

Wildebeest everywhere

A compilation video featuring three of the five river crossings that we were witness to.

A Horseback Safari in Uganda

Riding through the savannah with zebra in the background

As an intrepid bush lover and safari enthusiast, the idea of experiencing my passion on horseback was extremely intriguing.  Mihingo Lodge is the only place in Uganda that offers horseback safaris in a national park so that is where this first time experience took place.


My husband and I are inexperienced riders and were unsure of how our backsides would fare on a long ride, so we started with a one hour safari in the late afternoon.  The stables are a short distance from Mihingo Lodge where we were spending a couple of nights.  When we arrived at the stables for our safari we were met by Joseph the stable manager.  Joseph showed us around the stables and he introduced us to all of the horses and ponies.   The stables and facilities were clean, organized and had a number of spacious paddocks for the horses to graze.

One of the horses in the stables

After we were acquainted with the facilities it was time to visit the tack room and get ready for our ride.  Trail saddles, stirrups, chaps and helmets are all provided for your guided safari. Riders should wear long pants, a strong pair of shoes and most importantly bring your sense of adventure.  All geared up we were ready to meet our horses.  I was riding Summersong and Kevin had his trusty steed Vallas.  Joseph gave us a few pointers and instruction about riding our horses and we were all set.

Inside the tack room

Ready for the safari

We left the stables and began our safari riding through the savannah.  I had been told that game and wildlife is extremely relaxed around horses allowing riders to get very close to them but some things need to be experienced to be fully understood.   Not only did we get very close to animals but what surprised me the most was their calmness.  We were able to maintain a normal volume of conversation and they didn’t flinch or seem bothered.  Our guides Joseph and Charles were very knowledgeable about the wildlife and their habitat. As we rode through the bush and grassland we came across many species including warthogs, zebra, eland, dwarf mongoose, impala and bush buck as well as various birds. Horseback safaris are not ideal for photography as your hands are needed on the reins and the constant movement is not conducive for photos.  Small manageable point and shoot cameras are ideal.  The whole experience is very relaxing and personal.  While sitting on your horse you can enjoy the scenery and make mental memories.
















Feeling confident after our first ride, we decided to go for a longer one in the morning.  This time we left the stables at 7:30am for a 4 hour ride that took us outside the park towards Lake Kacheera.  Animals were plentiful and the landscape and scenery was beautiful.  For those that have never been on a horseback safari it is a special experience.  Without the confines of a vehicle and a rumbling engine you can take in every sound and every movement.  The horses at Mihingo were relaxed and calm so there was never any fear of being taken on a sudden gallop.  Having no previous experience, I never felt worried or stressed.

After the rides, Mihingo lodge was a stunning place to have a swim in the infinity pool overlooking a waterhole, have a full body massage, enjoy gourmet food and take in a bit of Mihingo magic.  We thoroughly enjoyed our first horseback safari and didn’t suffer from any aches, pains or sore backsides.  We left only with plenty of memories and smiles on our faces.  It was definitely an adventure that we will never forget.
To enjoy a Mihingo horseback safari, no previous experience with horses is necessary.  They are fully equipped for adults and children and offer rides starting from 30 minutes to several hours as well as overnight trips, bush breakfasts and picnic lunches.

For Information & Bookings
http://www.mihingolodge.com
reservations@mihingolodge.com 
+256-752 410 509

Gorilla Trekking in Bwindi Impentrable Forest

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is a UNESCO world heritage site that  lies in Southwestern Uganda.  It is 331 square kilometers (128 sq mi) of jungle that is accessible only by foot and is home to the critically endangered mountain gorillas.  A very good friend of mine was planning a visit to Uganda with her husband, so what better time to plan a trek through the jungle in search of these rare primates with her. This would be the ultimate girls day out!!

Our journey to the gorillas began from the Mweya peninsula in Queen Elizabeth National Park where we were bush camping with our husbands.  Full of excitement  we scurried around our camp packing up, organizing our things and getting a few last minute photography tips from Kevin, my husband and avid wildlife photographer who we would soon part ways with. The guys were spending the next couple of nights in Ishasha (the southern sector of Queen Elizabeth NP) while the girls would carry on to Bwindi.  Once our camp was packed up, we jumped into the 4x4’s and headed south.  When we arrived at the park gate to Ishasha, we pulled off the road, said goodbye and climbed back into our vehicle and were off like a shot.  We couldn’t wait to be sitting at our lodge in Bwindi Forest but this would take a little longer than we anticipated.  As we drove through small villages we passed dozens of people immaculately dressed walking home after Easter Sunday church services.  We rounded a bend in the road and came across a truck that had tipped over and completely blocked the road.  PANIC!!!  Was this going to prevent us from getting to Bwindi?  Was there another route?  After some discussion we decided to return to the nearest village and attempt to find someone who could give us directions and advice on another route.  Just as we arrived in the village, we spotted a tourist vehicle approaching, so out the window my arm went to flag him down.  We explained the blocked road ahead and asked if he knew of an alternative route.  With a confident “yes” he ordered us to “follow him”.  A huge sense of relief washed over us.  Yes!!  We WOULD get there.  Now as the driver of our vehicle, all I could focus on was keeping the green safari vehicle we were following in my eye sight.  The driver knew the road well and therefore kept a swift pace,  much faster than I normally drive, but I had to be sure not to lose him.  As we followed we enjoyed what we considered to be a much more scenic route on a better road.  By late afternoon we were driving through the entrance to Bwindi Impenetrable Park.

A truck blocking the road en route to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

We checked into Buhoma Lodge, ordered a well deserved cold beer and sat on the verandah of our tree house room.  We stared at the forest and watched the mist constantly changing shape, floating over the peaks of the mountain and hanging in the valleys.  Somewhere inside of that forest were the mountain gorillas that we came to see.  It all seemed so real now.  Tomorrow we would trek deep into the African jungle and come face to face with mountain gorillas.

Moments before my alarm went off, I woke up.  It was still dark.  I switched on a light and soon we were both buzzing around the room getting ready for the day.  It seemed that even the birds were excited for us their cheery songs getting louder and louder as daylight emerged.  Once we were layered with clothes and ready for any kind of weather, we sat down for breakfast and a hot cup of coffee.  We ate because we knew we needed the energy but our stomachs were more occupied doing flips of excitement rather than thinking about food.  Nevertheless, we ate.  After breakfast we chose a walking stick for the trek provided by our lodge and made our way over to the briefing.

The Uganda Wildlife Authority gave us a warm welcome and shared information about the gorillas and the guidelines for trekking.  We broke into smaller groups based on the group that we were trekking and met our fellow trekkers as well as our guide, Ruth.  We would be trekking the Habinyanja group.  We both chose to take a porter and got acquainted.  There are many advantages to a porter besides the obvious of carrying your backpack.  Foremostly it provides employment for people from the surrounding villages but beyond that they make great trekking companions.  My porter Caleb was a wealth of knowledge and he constantly reminded me to drink water.  When the going got tough he provided a helping hand and the occasional push up hills and when I seemed to need it the most, he made me laugh with his witty sense of humour and his jokes.

Our starting point was a 20 minute drive away from the briefing centre.  Once we arrived at the base of the trail, I parked the car and we got ourselves ready.  Backpack, check.  Water, check.  Camera, check.  Walking stick, check.  Rain jacket, check.  Sense of adventure, check.  We began our ascent through farmland.

Starting our ascent

Villagers were tilling their fields, young children came from every direction to wave and say hello and older children had artwork spread out along the path in hopes of making a sale.  Bananas, matooke, cassava, beans, children, men, women, goats, chickens, pigs, we passed them all.  After an hour or so of nothing but uphill trekking, we entered the jungle.

Children from one of the villages we passed

Surrounded by dense forest we followed a trail that led us through a never ending series of hills.  The going was somewhat tough and we could feel slight effects of elevation but this didn’t stop us.  We made short stops as we needed them, drank lots of water, and kept moving at a steady pace.  By midday, our guide informed us that we could be in for a long day as the trackers who had been out since the morning, still had not yet found the exact location of the Habinyanja group.  Just as we were bracing ourselves for the long day, we were told that the group had changed direction and were now heading towards us, we were very close.  We fueled up with a quick dried fruit snack, some more water and left our packs on the trail to traverse the thick vegetation of the forest floor to get close to the gorillas.

Our guides

Off the trail the vegetation was thick, the ground uneven and much more difficult to maneuver through.  The guides were clearing a way for us to get closer to the gorillas.  We could hear them making noise in the valley floor but we couldn’t see them.  The first gorillas we saw were a mother and a juvenile.  They looked at us casually as everyone in our group stood and watched them in amazement.  Beautiful.  Big.  Hairy.  Then we noticed two young gorillas swinging, playing and chasing each other in a nearby tree.  We watched them for several minutes as they entertained us with their antics.  Their ability to move up, down and around the tree with speed and accuracy was fascinating.  They carried on with their fun and games like we weren’t even there.  The guides continued to clear away a makeshift path for us to get closer to more members of the Habinyanja group.  Eventually we all gathered in a small opening in the forest that the guides had cleared for us, sat on the ground and immersed ourselves in the company of the gorillas.  The Silverback was laying down in the forest not far away however the most we could see of him was his silver hair shimmering in the sunlight between the branches.  We could hear him making noises and could clearly smell his flatulence.  Juveniles played in the trees around us, females sat munching on leaves and one of the new mothers was letting her young baby move around on the ground close to her after it was finished suckling from her breast.  The baby was so small and so very cute!  Their feet and hands were amazing to see, their digits and fingerprints seemed almost human.  The gorillas drew me in, their large chestnut colored eyes, relaxed personalities and gentle movements made me want to sit there and watch them forever.  At the end of the hour, it was extremely hard to leave the gorillas.  With great reluctance we followed our guide back to the main trail where we had left our backpacks.

The foot of an adult gorilla

The foot of a baby gorilla

Back on the main trail we sat down on the ground, ate a sandwich and discussed how wonderful it was to spend time with the Habinyanya.  After some food and a brief rest, we began to walk back to where we left our car.  This took several hours of traversing through the forest in the opposite direction from our way in.  When we reached the car we were tired.  It had been a long day but a good one.  We drove back to the UWA headquarters and were presented with certificates for trekking and then back to our lodge.  We were looking forward to a hot shower.

The view from the edge of the forest

That evening over dinner we shared a bottle of wine and talked about what an awesome day we had.  On one hand we were tired and on the other so full of adrenaline and excitement that we knew it would be hard to fall asleep.  Trekking the gorillas is such an incredible experience, one that can be shared but never replicated as every encounter is different.  As I lay in my bed that night  I thought about the Habinyanja and wondered what they were doing.  Where were they sleeping? What had they done for the rest of the day?  It was an experience that will stay with me forever.  When I think back to that day, I remember every detail and cherish it not only for myself but that I was able to share it with such a good friend.  It is a bond that we will share for the rest of our lives.  Simply incredible!

Gorillas from the Habinyanja group

Kidepo Valley National Park

The Kidepo Valley National Park attracts the attention and curiosity of many.  This remote park in the Karamoja region of northeast Uganda offers outstanding views and gives you a true wilderness feel.  It is Uganda's least explored park but is quickly gaining popularity.  CNN recently named it among the top 10 parks in Africa for its spectacular landscape and its large herd of buffalo.  For those who embark on a Kidepo safari, which can be done by either road or air, you will not regret your decision.  The masses are absent from this park and the all too familiar scene of dozens of cars surrounding an animal certainly don't occur in Kidepo.  In December we made the journey to KVNP for our third time.  As we descended the mountain pass into the Kidepo Valley we instantly remembered why we love this place so much.  The wild remote feel is just too much to keep us away, this is the real Africa, the Africa that seeps deep into your heart!

Looking out over the savannah of the Narus Valley

Kidepo in the local Karamajong language means "to pick".  The valley got its name from the numerous people that came to pick up the fallen fruit from the Borassa Palms for making Palm Beer.  During our time in Kidepo, we stayed at the N'ga Moru Wilderness Camp which is situated just outside of the park and is approximately 4 kilometers from the Katarum park gate.  The camp is a relaxed place with great views of the Narus Valley and surrounding mountains.

WHAT TO EXPECT AND WHAT TO DO IN KIDEPO:

GAME DRIVES
The Kidepo Valley is not teeming with plains animals so don't go expecting to see large herds of antelope like so many other parks in Uganda.  What you can expect is pretty much everything in between including a few species found nowhere else in Uganda, the greater and lesser kudu, eland and cheetah. Other species found in Kidepo are lion, leopard, spotted hyena, black-backed jackal, side-striped jackal, elephant, Burchell’s zebra, bushpig, warthog, Rothschild’s giraffe, Cape buffalo, bushbuck, bushduiker, Defassa waterbuck, Bohor reedbuck, Jackson’s hartebeest and oribi to mention a few of the 77 mammal species in the park.  We spent hours driving around and exploring the many bush tracks, besides spotting plenty of amazing animals we encountered the large herd of Cape buffalo that Kidepo is renowned for, all while enjoying spectacular views and scenery.  Kidepo is abound with stunning views and vistas and sometimes you just need to stop driving, find a scenic spot (not hard) sit there for awhile and enjoy it!  You may also be amazed at what starts to come to life around you.

BIRDING

Kidepo boasts over 475 species of birds, making it the second top national park in Uganda for birding.  The best place to begin is around the Uganda Wildlife Authority bandas at Apoka where you can arrange for a guide/ranger who will accompany you in the park and help to spot and identify many different species.  Although we didn't do a dedicated bird safari, we were happy to see many species that we had never seen in the wild before and gain ourselves a few "ticks" for the bird book.

Abyssinian Roller

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  Common Ostrich
• Secretary Bird
• Abyssinian Roller
• Rufous-crowned Roller
• White Crested Helmet Shrike
• Northern White-crowned Shrike
• Knob Billed Duck
• White Faced Whistling Duck
• Ruppells Griffon Vulture
• Clapperton's Francolin
• Spotted Redshank
• Speckled Pigeon
• Eurasian Hoopoe
• Jackson's Hornbill
• Hemprich's Hornbill
• Nubian Woodpecker
• Silverbird
• Fan Tailed Raven
• Superb Starling

THE KIDEPO RIVER
A visit to the Kidepo River, a seasonal river near the South Sudan border is well worth it.  A UWA ranger will accompany you on the journey as there is little or no mobile phone network in that area.  There isn't a lot of game in this section of the park but it's a nice easy drive. We did manage to see ostrich, zebra, secretary birds, jackson’s hartebeest and oribi. The area is also home to cheetah which managed to elude us. This is also a great opportunity for spotting various bird species that you are unlikely to see in other parts of Kidepo.  Our ranger told us that water flows in the river about three times per year during flash floods and generally flows for only five hours. What a sight that would be.

Sitting in the Kidepo River

KANANGOROK HOTSPRINGS
A little further north from the Kidepo River, approximately 11 km from the South Sudan border is a hot spring.  Now to be perfectly honest, the hot spring is nothing more than a couple pools of water on the ground.  You can get up close and dip your hand in to feel the temperature of the water however after a quick look around you're likely to be back in your vehicle.  Despite the anticlimactic nature of the hot springs themselves, we did see a number of birds on the drive between the Kidepo River and the spring, so it is worth checking out.

Kanangorok Hot Springs

CAMPING
Kidepo has three designated camping sites.  There is a campsite at the UWA ranger post in Apoka while the other two are remotely based within the park and require you to be accompanied by a ranger which can be organized from the ranger post in Apoka.  The remote sites are both perched atop a hill with rocky outcrops and have incredible views across the valley. The sites are equipped and supplied with firewood, a couple of open thatched rondovals that provide shade and shelter, water and long drop toilets. I would have to rank these two campsites among the top in Uganda.  Each provides superb 360 degrees views of the Narus Valley.  If you really want to understand and appreciate why Kidepo has been named one of Africa's top 10 parks, take some time to visit these sites.  Even if you don't intend to camp they make a great spot for a lunch stop or sundowners.

Taking some time to enjoy the view from one of the remote campsites

If you are planning a visit to Kidepo Valley National Park, a detailed map of the park can be found here: Kidepo Valley NP Map

Young lioness

Nairobi to Mombasa by Rail

White sandy beaches were on the brain, we wanted some sand in between our toes, smell the ocean and indulge in some fresh seafood, so Mombasa seemed to fit the bill.  Sure we could easily fly there but we opted for a more adventurous journey, to take the train from Nairobi to Mombasa operated by Rift Valley Railways (RVR) and often referred to as "The Lunatic Express".  The rail line has a lot of history and being that Kevin has an affection for train travel and had done this train journey in 1989 he was eager to do it again.  I had never been on a train so we were excited about our choice.

The rail line began construction in 1896 and was intended to connect the interiors of Uganda and Kenya to the coastal city of Mombasa.  The tracks, locomotives as well as a lot of skilled and unskilled labor to build the railway came from India.  Many Indians remained in Kenya and Uganda after the completion of the railway line largely contributing to the Indian communities in those countries today.  The building of the line took its share of lives as the working and living conditions were poor and many succumbed to diseases resulting in death.  Probably the most famous incident occurred in Tsavo in 1898 when two "man eating lions" stalked and killed approximately 130 workers.  The entire project to build the railway seemed to be such an enormous undertaking and at such a great cost that skeptics who doubted its economic worth endearingly starting referring to it as The Lunatic Express.  The entire project was completed in 1929 and is said to have opened up East Africa to the rest of the world.

Our journey began in Entebbe where we boarded a plane bound for Nairobi.  We arrived in Nairobi early in the morning and the train was only scheduled to leave the station at 7pm, so we had an entire day to explore Nairobi.  Our first stop was Giraffe Manor to have a  moment with the Rothschild Giraffe.  I love giraffes and ever since I had seen Giraffe Manor on a television program years earlier, I had wanted to visit.  To see those big black eyes with long luscious lashes so close was amazing and I didn't leave without getting my "kiss".  We continued our exploration of Nairobi with a visit to the Karen Blixen Museum.  Karen Blixen (1885–1962) is best known as the author of Out of Africa.  The museum is full of history and is definitely worth a visit.  By this time we were hungry for some lunch and relaxed for a couple of hours at the Talisman before making our way to the Nairobi Railway Station.

Getting to the station was an adventure in itself as we fought our way through the taxi park full of matatus, buses and people. A brick building came into sight, we had reached the Nairobi Railway Station. We entered the building and received our tickets for the journey.  With a little over an hour to wait in the station before the train was due to leave, we sat and watched the hustle bustle of it all.  Other passengers were arriving as well as vendors sending merchandise to the numerous towns en route.  We received the call to board the train and with great excitement we found our cabin.  Although the fan didn't work, no water came out of the water tap and the lights flickered, I was pleased with the beds as the bedding was clean and crisp.  There was a small closet for our personal belongings and clothes, a mirror and our bags conveniently fit underneath the bottom bunk bed.  I was equally impressed that on the stroke of 7, the train's whistle blew and we started to move away from the station.  As we watched from our window the lights of Nairobi grew further and further away.  In the hallway outside our cabin we could hear a large bell clanging, the dinner bell.  We left our cabin with all our valuables as the cabins do not lock from outside and headed for the dining car.  We were sat at a table for four and soon, two others joined us.  As we got to know each other the servers came around for drink orders and to serve food from huge dishes.  The scariest part was the soup course, the waitress carried a large pot of steaming hot soup and as the car lurched back and forth she balanced herself and the pot and didn't spill a drop.  The food was average, we were served chicken stew with rice and potatoes followed by fresh fruit.  As we sat in the dining car I wondered what the atmosphere and service was like back in its day knowing the reputation of white glove service with fine silverware.  After dinner we returned to our cabin settled into our beds and were lulled to sleep by the gentle swaying of the train.  Periodically through the night I woke, sometimes as the train was slowing down to stop at villages along the tracks to unload and load passengers and goods and other times as it was hurling down the mountains feeling almost like a runaway train. I found the train to be a comfortable place to sleep.

At first light we were awake and peering out the window as it was the first opportunity to see the countryside since the first part of the journey was in the dark.  We passed small villages, roadside markets and watched children running towards the track as fast as they could to wave at the passing train.  Once again a bell could be heard in the hallway which indicated that breakfast was ready in the dining cart.  Juice, coffee, tea, fruit, eggs and toast were served as we gazed out the window fascinated by everything that we saw.  When we returned to our cabin after breakfast our bedding has been removed and the top bunk folded up leaving us a bench seat to sit on for the remainder of the trip.  The train was due to arrive at the Mombasa station at 10am but having read numerous reports of poor time keeping we really weren't sure when we would get there.

We travelled through fields and villages, under bridges and over rivers. At one point the train was running parallel to the highway next to it.  Eventually we got our first glimpse of the light blue waters that we were yearning for, the Indian Ocean.  This was an indication that we were not far from Mombasa.  Palm trees began to dot the landscape and the smell of the sea was in the air.  The train crossed the Nyali Bridge that connects the island of Mombasa to the mainland.  The settlements and markets were getting more concentrated and closer to the tracks.

At almost precisely 10am, the train pulled into the Mombasa station.  Impeccable timing, especially considering the number of stops that were made through the night.  We collected our personal belongings and disembarked the train having had a memorable and pleasant experience.  Now the only thing on our minds was where the beach and a cold cocktail was.  It was time to enjoy the coast for a couple of weeks before taking the train back to Nairobi for the trip home.

The train approaching Nairobi on the return journey

In the first week of March 2012 it was announced by Rift Valley Railways that they would be investing 23 million dollars to rehabilitate dilapidated sections of the main line from Kampala to Mombasa.  The project is due to start in July of 2012 and we are excited to see the changes that it brings.  Maybe one day we'll have the opportunity to simply board a train in Kampala bound for the ocean.

A FEW TIPS

If you're planning to take the train, there are a couple of things I recommend taking with you:

• Drinking water
• A wash cloth for freshening up
• Toilet paper in case they run out
• Snacks in the event that you really aren't wowed by the food
• A sense of adventure

Also note that there is no shower's on the train only toilets.  Do a little exploration of the toilet facilities as there are squat ones as well as conventional toilets.

Bujagali Memories

In late 2011 the headwaters of the Nile River were flooded in preparation for the launch of the Bugagali Dam.  The area has become the reservoir for the new dam which began operation in February 2012.  This past weekend we had our first opportunity to see the headwater region since the flooding.  The water has risen several metres taking with it a number of rapids that used to be a part of The Nile including the famous grade 5 rapids Bujagali Falls.  At the moment things look slightly awkward as the rising water has engulfed the area.  Trees that once grew from the islands are now merely tree tops slowly succumbing to their new environment.  The immense sound of the water crashing can no longer be heard making the area very peaceful.  The reservoir now known as Lake Bujagali has the potential to become a hotspot for birding and sport fishing.  Looking down the river the Bujagali Dam can be seen in the background along with transmission towers and cables that disappear into the horizon to help supply the nation with much needed electricity.  Although Bujagali Falls no longer exists we recalled the good times we've had and will cherish for years to come.

RAFTING Our first encounter with the mighty Bujagali Falls was in 2002 on a raft.  It was the first time either of us had been rafting and we obviously weren't meant to stay in that raft for long!  As we manoeuvred through Bujagali our raft bounced around before being lifted high into the air and overturning, leaving us swimming through the rapids looking for the fastest way to get back into the raft.
CAMPING NEXT TO BUJAGALI At the time we didn't realize that camping next to Bujagali Falls and falling asleep to the roar of the cascading water would be a limited time offer.  This was the first place that we ever camped in Uganda so obviously the place holds special memories.  We will never forget waking up to the calls of the African Fish Eagle, the cool crisp air and the mist over the river.
THE ENTERTAINMENT Lastly, how can we forget those daredevils that would delight tourists by "rafting" the falls clutching onto the handle of a 20 litre plastic jerry can.  Anxious spectators wondering if this was safe would contribute money and then watch as the skill full swimmers would throw themselves to the mercy of the river.  Jumping into the water and then plunging over the falls, disappearing underwater and then popping up slightly downstream.  Proud of their feat the daredevils would come running back with  toothless grins, I suppose there was the odd encounter with a rock, but they never bothered to mention that and were eager to do it again. That wasn't the only entertainment at Bujagali Falls.  Every morning people from the surrounding villages would come in droves to watch kayakers and rafts full of people traverse through the feisty water erupting in cheers when they were successful and watching with slight terror when rafts would flip. For many, this appeared to be a highlight of their day. Bujagail Falls, thanks for the memories!! Please note that although you can no longer raft Bujagali Falls, the opportunity to experience Grade 5 rafting on The Nile is still possible below the Bujagali Dam.  We're only wondering if this means we have to pluck up the courage to raft The Nile again.

A Little R&R on Lake Kivu at Palm Garden Resort

Not far from the town of Gisenyi, on the shores of Lake Kivu you will find Palm Garden Resort, a quiet, relaxing oasis with manicured gardens along with comfortable accommodation.  Lake Kivu is considered to be one of Africa’s great lakes, and lies in the Albertine Rift Valley sharing the border of Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.  The lake is surrounded by hundreds of hills and mountains and the Palm Garden Resort is situated on one of them.

We arrive at Palm Garden Resort and are surrounded by beautiful plants and shrubs.  We follow a path that leads us to the main lodge and restaurant.  It has a very relaxed feel with fishing nets draped from the ceiling and gourd light fixtures hanging between them.  Mountain bikes hang from the back wall, plants are climbing up the columns and brightly colored cloths cover the tables.  There are lounge chairs as well as dining tables so whether you are having a meal or just relaxing, there is a comfortable place to sit.  The area is terraced so no matter where you sit, you can see out through the giant palm trees providing a great panoramic view of Lake Kivu.  The covered open air structure allows the gentle lakeside breezes to flow through and the mood is very relaxing with a mix of classic rock and blues playing in the background.  The bar is fully stocked with local beers, sodas and spirits.  In the evening, the area is softly lit and a fire crackles nearby, which provides for a comfortable gathering place with great ambiance.

Just outside the main lodge, large steps lead down the hill into the garden full of palm trees and rolling green grass.  Off to one side of the large garden and near the lake is our room, a round volcanic stone bungalow with glass paned double doors and windows that look out through the garden and across the lake.  The room décor reminds us that we are on a tropical beach but with an African twist.  Vibrant curtains frame the windows and painted multicolored geometric shapes decorate the closet.  African print lampshades rest on top of clay lamp stands on either side of the king size bed which is truly fit for a king.  The bed has been built quite high off the ground which gives a very palatial feel.   The floor is scattered with mats and underneath the large picture window are gourds of various shapes and sizes.  The décor is simple yet makes a statement.  



The bathroom is stunning.  Whenever I get into a room, I take a quick look around and then head straight for the bathroom; I assume it’s probably a girl thing.  My jaw drops and I say to my husband, “you have to see this!”  Off the side of the bungalow accessed through a door is a large open air bathroom with a shower, toilet and sink.  The large showerhead has great pressure and is nothing short of luxury either for a cool down in the heat of the midday sun or a hot shower under the midnight stars.

Palm Garden Resort offers a number of different accommodation options ranging from bungalows, double and single rooms as well as a campsite which is high up on the hill providing brilliant views.  If you feel like camping closer to the water, you can camp on the sand underneath the shade of palm trees.

Lake Kivu has several species of fish and every night the fishermen take to the lake for a local delicacy "Isambaza".  At dusk fisherman head out to work on the lake, using a system of three large wooden boats spaced several metres apart that are tethered together with makeshift walkways.  The boats are equipped with long poles that extended off the bow and stern of each boat, that suspend lanterns and nets.  The nets are slung below into the water and the Isambaza are attracted to the light from the lanterns dangling above.  In the morning the fisherman paddle their way home singing in rejoice about their catch and hard work.  Their songs also announce to the buyers and brokers to get ready to trade.



We watch as the fishermen of the night head straight to the market landing site and sell to the eager buyers and brokers.  While listening to the singing fisherman, we sit on the grass at the water’s edge under a thatched umbrella sipping Rwandan coffee grown and harvested from the shores of Lake Kivu served in beautiful handmade pottery from a local co-operative.  The waiter came to take our breakfast order however he didn’t have a menu which created some confusion as to what was available for breakfast resulting mostly from a language barrier since we don’t speak French or the local language.  Once he brought a menu, we were able to point and make an order for omelets which came to our garden table quickly accompanied with toast, preserves and juice.  We did notice that this confusion was not a reflection of poor service as many others around us who were able to order in the local language had no problems.  This is a good reason for us to brush up on our French for our next trip there.

Lunch and dinner is a la carte. The menu isn’t overly large but does offer a nice variety and what is on offer is done very well.  We tried several dishes including the goat brochette, beef brochette, chips, steak with mushroom sauce and the whole grilled tilapia which was by far our favorite.  We have eaten whole tilapia many times before, but have never had it prepared like this.  We would go back again just for that dish alone.  The food is grilled over a fire and the resulting flavor is outstanding.  African dishes are also available such as ugali, fufu and the local delicacy Isambaza.  The staff is not always overly attentive however they are never far away and ready to serve, you may just need to ask or give a simple wave to get their attention.

Palm Garden Resort caters for a variety of activities for every level of ambition.  If you are looking to relax and unwind, the thatch umbrellas next to the lake are for you.  The main lodge is also a great place to relax.  We spent an entire afternoon on the lounge chairs enjoying the breeze and the gentle sounds of the music drifting from the speakers while gazing out onto Lake Kivu wondering what mysteries it holds.

For those looking to get out and about to explore the local sites, the resort has a boat that can take you to nearby hot springs which claim to have healing properties however the local people often use it for cooking food.  You can also arrange for scenic trips on the lake to enjoy the abundant bird life in the area.  The Primus brewery is just down the road from the resort within walking distance and offers tours.  

The owner of the lodge is a bike enthusiast and has a great selection of good quality mountain bikes that are available for guests to explore the surrounding area.  The trail head for the newly opened Congo Nile Trail is in Gisenyi, not far from the Palm Garden Resort so if you’re planning to hike or bike the trail, the resort is a great starting point.

Palm Garden Resort is only a few kilometers from the DRC border and outdoor enthusiasts may want to take the opportunity to hike Nyiragongo volcano, one of the most active volcanoes in Africa with a lava lake in the summit crater.  If a big hike, isn’t something you are interested in you can still experience Nyiragongo in a different way.  On a clear night you can walk to the top of the hill near the resort and see the glow from the lava lake.  Unfortunately the weather conditions did not allow for this during our visit.
Palm Garden Resort is one of the easiest going places that we have ever stayed.  Everything about the place is relaxing and comfortable with friendly staff and great food.  For your next holiday consider this tropical paradise that is sure to melt your tension and stress away while enjoying the heart of Africa.

Getting There
Palm Garden Resort is easily accessible from Kigali by either road (2 ½ to 3 hour drive) or by air (30 minute flight) as well as from Volcanoes National Park (1 hour drive), so whether you are looking for a weekend getaway or a place to relax after seeing the gorillas, you don’t have far to travel to get to Palm Garden Resort.

Booking Information
+250 788306830 / +250 788834800
info@mercatorassistance.rw or vedaste@mercatorassistance.rw