Mihingo Lodge

Mihingo Main Lodge

I was falling into a deep sleep when a noise woke me.  I’d thought I had heard the whinny of a zebra, but much to my surprise, I was at home in Kampala and it wasn’t a zebra I had heard.  Sigh, clearly my mind was still at Mihingo Lodge and rightfully so as it’s a spectacular place to be.  Perched high atop a rocky outcropping on the fringes of Lake Mburo National Park, Mihingo Lodge offers commanding views over the park.  Nestled into the bush, the lodge melts into the landscape and you feel you have become a part of the nature around you as Vervet monkeys chatter, cicadas buzz and Ross’s turacos engage in duets of comical cackling.  The lodge may be secluded but luxury is not spared here, Mihingo Lodge offers the finest that the bush has to offer.

The centrepiece of Mihingo is the main lodge, dining and bar area, a superb place to relax and take it all in.  With no Wi-Fi and no reminders of the daily grind, you can truly escape, here and soak up the magic of Mihingo.  Whether it is on a chaise lounge next to the infinity pool, on an oversized bean bag in the top of the tower that boasts 360 degree views or with a drink in the bar, the view never gets boring.  It’s better than any DVD or television documentary I’ve ever seen.  This is live view and it’s wonderful!  At times it’s hard to even imagine that the hustle and bustle of Kampala is just four hours away, as it feels like light years.

The view of Lake Mburo NP from the main lodge overlooking the infinity pool

In the bar, a large built in adobe style sofa curves around the granite rock protruding from the wall.  Books and other informational materials are piled up on a ledge while paraffin lanterns glow in little alcoves on the wall.  Head barman Michael will greet you with his big smile and serve you your drink of choice from the fully stocked bar.  Every evening the bar serves pre dinner nibbles during which time, you will be invited to join in one of the lodges most unique experiences, the opportunity to observe thick-tailed Gallagos commonly known as Bush Babies, in their natural environment.  Over the years, the Bush Babies have grown accustomed to guests and on most evenings visit the Bush Baby platform below the bar.  These fascinating little primates look like a curious combination of species and are just too cute for words.  As they move about, Mugisha who has been interacting with them for over 7 years will answer all your questions.  As he gives his answers, it’s obvious he has a deep passion for these quirky little creatures.  After eating a couple of banana pieces, the bush babies disappear back into the trees to forage for food during the night.

The bar and lounge area

A bush baby

Meals are served in the dining area located in between the bar and the lounge. The dining room overlooks a watering hole and salt lick so is not only a place to enjoy good food, but the wildlife and view as well. Mihingo Lodge’s delectable cuisine has been developed mostly from family recipes.  A fusion of flavours incorporating fresh produce and herbs makes the meals healthy and satisfying. An aquaponic garden on the property ensures that the food you eat if of the utmost freshness often times being picked only hours before and you can taste the difference.  Breakfast is a selection of fresh fruit, juice, cereal, muesli and yogurt.  Eggs are cooked to order and served with the sides of your choice (bacon, sausages, mushrooms, tomatoes and beans) alongside homemade toast.  Lunches and dinners are both three course meals.  Grilled aubergines, smoked Nile Perch, chilled avocado soup, beef vindaloo, chicken with tarragon, pan fried beef fillet, mango cream, chocolate brownie and key lime pie are some of the fabulous dishes we had during our stay.  Pair these with one of the wines from the wine list and you’re all set.  I really can’t overemphasize how good the food is at Mihingo Lodge, it was a highlight of our stay!  In the evenings a campfire is lit next to the dining area and is an exceptional place to sit out under the stars, let your dinner settle, have a night cap and listen to the hyenas whooping in the valley below.

A dining experience with a view

Mihingo Lodge consists of 12 luxury tented rooms on raised wooden decks under thatch roofs.  The large beige canvas bedroom has screened windows on all four sides for an open feeling and uninhibited views.  The spacious rooms are luxurious but they don’t scream pretentiousness, but rather gently whisper relax.  The rooms are tastefully decorated with leather furniture and local African crafts and fabrics.  Outside is a large partially covered veranda which has a daybed and a couple of chairs.  It’s inviting place to sit and gaze at the astonishing views.  Each of the tented rooms at Mihingo is unique and offers their own special view and experience.  There is plenty of space between the tented rooms so you can enjoy privacy and solitude.  Our first couple of nights were spent in Klipspringer (room 11) which was all about the sweeping views over the valley below and Lake Kacheera.  The room is situated next to large granite boulders that bulge out from the earth and sandwich a crevasse filled with water that attracts animals. The water filled crevice is completely covered by Nile cabbage and home to terrapins and a night time chorus of frogs.  On our first afternoon at Mihingo, our veranda turned into our own private viewing platform for an entire troop of monkeys getting up to their usual tomfoolery.  That night, the room lived up to its name “Klipspringer” when a family of 3 klipspringers ambled over the rocks, then tucked their legs underneath their bodies and lay down to spend the night there.  Not far from where they lay were two large waterbuck munching on the grass.  This is the kind of place that you really don’t want to go to sleep as you just might miss something.

Our tented room at Mihingo Lodge

Inside the tented room

Our last night was spent in Impala (room 10) which was more of a bush experience with its own private view of a salt lick.  As we relaxed with a book on the deck, impala, baboons, warthogs and bushbuck wandered to and from the lick. The tented rooms at Mihingo are extremely spacious and pleasant. The king sized bed is a comfortable place to lay your head at night and fall asleep listening to the night noises of the park.  Each room has a considerable sized ensuite bathroom with flushing toilet and alluring views that you can enjoy while you shower.

Mihingo Lodge has extended their accommodation options and is now offering self catering accommodation for groups and families in the Bush Camp.  The camp consists of one room with a double bed and ensuite solar hot water shower, 1 tent with a double bed, outdoor solar hot water shower and a long drop toilet and 1 tent designed for children with 4 single beds and outside shower and toilet.  Other facilities include a large sitting and dining room with veranda, fully equipped kitchen and a store room for food with solar powered chest fridge and chest freezer.  The camp is intended for groups to self cater their meals and drinks and access to the facilities of the lodge are not allowed.  However, activities offered by the lodge such as the horseback safaris, bike safaris and walking safaris can be booked by Bush Camp residents.  For more information on the camp or booking information, contact reservations@mihingolodge.com

Mihingo Lodge offers a variety of activities, more than can be taken in on a single visit, unless you want to extend your stay which I’m sure most every guest contemplates.  The watering hole and salt lick below the main lodge is engaging.  Animals wander in and out from the bushes into view to have a drink and a nibble on the salty soil.  If you want to get a closer look, a quick 15 minute walk from the lodge along a trail, you’ll find “The Hide”.  It’s a great spot to quietly sit for a while and observe the animals.  If you want to get even closer and don’t mind being in a small enclosure, venture a little further down the trail to “The Den”, a great spot for photographers.

Taking photographs inside "The Den"

Massage was an activity we couldn’t resist.  A short walk from the main lodge winds you through the giant boulders the lodge is built on, to a secluded room overlooking the park.  After a couple of days at Mihingo you wouldn’t think there would be any tension left, but the masseuse did seem to find a few lingering spots and gently massaged them away.  This is one massage room that doesn’t require a sound recording.  The breeze blew gently, birds chirped, and we relaxed.
After dinner a night drive is a great activity.  Either inside or outside of the park, it’s your best chance to see nocturnal animals such as owls, hyenas, leopards, white tail mongoose and nightjars.  The lodge has safari vehicles for hire that include a driver and guide.  The vehicle has open sides and spot lights to ensure your night drive is an unforgettable experience.

If you’re tired of being in a car, Mihingo Lodge offers a couple of unique safari experiences, horseback safaris and mountain biking safaris.  Horseback safaris are unique to Lake Mburo NP and are a great way to experience wildlife.  The animals are extremely relaxed around the horses which allow you to get close to them and often see some of the more timid ones up close such as eland.  Without the noise of a vehicle, you can really experience the sounds of nature.  We thoroughly enjoyed our horseback safari and as no previous experience on horses is required, anyone can participate.  The biking safaris will take you exploring the sandy paths around the lodge and riding alongside zebra, impala, warthog and other antelope.  This is great for people that are not comfortable on a horse, but still want to get out into nature.  As the terrain is not extreme, it's a good activity for the whole family.

Horseback Safari

Other activities offered by the lodge are walking safaris, cultural visits, game drives, kids bush courses and for running enthusiasts, a guided run through the community land.
Lake Mburo NP is reputed to be the best place in Uganda to see leopard with guests often spotting them on night game drives.  The leopard population does well in Lake Mburo NP due to the lack of competition from other predators.  Mihingo Lodge has recently started a leopard identification program to learn more about how many leopards are in the area and exactly where their territories are.  A book containing all the information collected to date is kept at the bar and vistor input is encouraged.  To date, 14 different leopards have been recorded and guests are welcome to share their photos along with information such as where the leopard was seen and the date.  It’s a fascinating book to flip through and includes photos, identifying characteristics and other information about each leopard.

A leopard seen on a night drive in Lake Mburo NP

Mihingo Lodge is committed to conservation and protecting the animals in and around the park.  Whenever humans and animals live in close proximity to each other, there is bound to be conflict.  During the time the lodge was built, an entire clan of spotted hyenas were poisoned by community members adjacent to the park.  This was the deciding factor that something should be done to reduce the conflict.  In 2008, the Mihingo Conservation and Community Development Foundation (MCCDF), a nonprofit organization was set up.  The primary goal of the MCCDF is to preserve wildlife outside of the park boundary and reduce the conflict between humans and animals.  They are accomplishing their goal through various means.  A compensation program for livestock killed by park predators has been very successful.  MCCDF also extends support to two primary schools in the area and have involved secondary students in the leopard identification program.  In the near future they are expanding their outreach to the community through various educational programs and the strengthening of animal enclosures where cattle are kept through the night so that animals are less vulnerable to predation.  The MCCDF is very aware that the more the local community is empowered and educated about the role of wildlife, the more eager they will be to protect and conserve it.  Iddy is the young woman in charge of the day to day operations and after chatting to her for only a couple of minutes her passion for everything wildlife and nature related is apparent.  She's extremely knowledgeable in her field and loves to share what she knows and answer questions.  She bubbles about the successes of MCCDF to date, but recognizes that it is an ongoing challenge, one she’s definitely up for.

A young zebra in Lake Mburo NP

Mihingo Lodge is without doubt a phenomenal place to stay, everything thing about it is chilled out luxury.  It is one of the few places in Uganda you actually be woken by the whinny of a zebra.  Don’t make the mistake of many and stay for only one night, stay longer.  Relax, stay awhile and immerse yourself in the magic of Mihingo.

Reservations & Booking Information
Mihingo Lodge
Tel. +256 752 410 509
Email: reservations@mihingolodge.com                          
Website: www.mihingolodge.com

Bakers Lodge - Murchison Falls NP

For nearly a decade, Exclusive Camps and Lodges have been well-known for offering high quality lodges in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest NP (Buhoma Lodge) and Ishasha, Queen Elizabeth NP (Ishasha Wilderness Camp).  Recently, their newest addition has opened its doors in the ever popular Murchison Falls NP and it is no surprise that it boasts the same “wow” factor as the other lodges.  Situated on the south bank of the mighty Nile River, guests can sit at eye level to the river and watch as it gently flows by.  The proximity to the Nile River is what sets this lodge apart from all others.  All that lies between the lodge and one of the most famous rivers of all time is sprawling grass and large shade trees.  Bakers Lodge offers a Nile River experience like no other.

The lodge is named after the British explorer Samuel Baker, who is famous for his exploration of the Nile.  Late in the 1800’s Samuel and his wife Florence spent time around the area during their expedition of the river.  Samuel Baker was the first European to view and subsequently name the Murchison Falls.  In keeping with this theme, the decor of the lodge is reminiscent of the exploration era.  Wood, leather and canvas are abundant in the main lodge area which is a large wooden deck raised up off the ground.  There are several large sofas and chairs to relax in and enjoy the view, read a book or just to sit and contemplate just where you are in the world.  A large portion of the main lodge is covered with a thatch roof with an open air deck on each side.  The bar stocks wines and a selection of spirits as well as water, soda and local beer which is kept cold via their eco friendly solar powered energy system.

Accommodation at Bakers Lodge is individual cottages elevated off the ground.  The very spacious en-suite cottages have large netted windows on all sides for an open airy feeling.  Each cottage is positioned with consideration of privacy from others, has a wooden deck off the front and a view of the river, a great place to sip on your morning cup of coffee or tea.  The cottages are furnished with wooden furniture, a writing desk and chair, beds with side tables, lockable safe, and an open wardrobe for clothes and is lit with solar lighting.

The large netted windows on the front of the cottage roll up for an unobstructed view of the river.  The beds have been designed to sit up in comfortably to enjoy the view.  I sat on my bed for quite some time with my binoculars, enjoying the bird life and the view while listening to the grunts of hippos.  I felt like I was watching a large HDTV and had to pinch myself that what I was watching was real.  It was awesome!

The cottages are self contained with a large bathroom, flushing toilet and running water.  Double sinks sit on top of a spacious wooden table with a mirror hanging above.  The shower is open and faces the view so while you are washing off the dust of the day, you can revel in the amazing view.  Hot water in the bathroom is provided by a solar energy system.

Every evening, just before sunset a fire is lit between the main lodge and the river.  It’s a great place to sit with a cold drink, watch the last of the day light fade away, reflect on your day, watch the stars in the sky slowly come to life and cherish another day in Africa.  The campfire is a great place to interact with other guests and swap safari stories.  The ever attentive staff is never far away to take your drink orders so you don’t have to leave the magic and the ambiance of the fire.  Once dinner is ready, the staff show you to your table, top up your drinks and begin the dinner service.

The food at Bakers Lodge was nothing short of amazing.  All of the meals we had were delicious and plentiful.  We started our mornings with a wake up call at our cottage followed by a freshly brewed cup of coffee on our verandah.  As we sat and enjoyed the dawn of a new day, many species of birds were fishing and hunting in the nearby wetland next the river while agama lizards chased each other to protect their territory on the ground and in the trees around us.  Breakfast is served in the main lodge and cooked as per your order along with fresh fruit, cereal, cold meats and cheeses, coffee, tea and fresh juice served buffet style. We had our three course lunch al fresco in the shade of a large tree on the deck of the main lodge.  As the gentle breeze blew we enjoyed both the view and the food.  After some sundowners around the fire, we had a four course dinner under a blanket of stars on the deck.  As we savoured a salad course, soup course, main course and dessert, we talked about our day and made plans for the next while listening to the night sounds of crickets, frogs, hippos.  The dinner atmosphere at Bakers Lodge was magical and a perfect way to end a day.

Getting to Bakers Lodge, you have a choice of routes once you reach Masindi town which is 215 kilometres north of Kampala.  The most direct route is to enter Murchison Falls NP from the Kichumbanyobo gate which takes you through the south side of the park through the Kaniyo Pabidi forest.  A longer but more scenic route passes through Budongo forest before descending into the rift valley next to Lake Albert.  This route gets you to the lodge without entering the national park as Bakers Lodge sits just outside of the Bugungu gate.  The lodge is well marked with signposts at the entrance, so it’s easy to find.

Murchison Falls National Park is the largest park in Uganda and offers plenty of activities for visitors.  The park is home to elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, giraffe, hyena, jackal, hippos and the Nile crocodiles which are reputed to be “huge”.  The park is well known for its diverse bird population, including the most sought after and unique resident, the shoebill.

A variety of boat excursions can be done on the Nile river.  The waterfall cruise travels up the Nile River to the base of Murchison Falls which is a spectacular sight.  Along the way you can view many species of birds, mammals near the shore that are coming to the water to drink and crocodiles both in and out of the water.  The delta cruise travels down the Nile River to the Victoria Nile Delta where the bird life is prolific and is the best place to search for the shoebill.  If you’re ready for a fishing experience like none other, you can bait your hooks in anticipation for a mighty Nile Perch.  Fishing safaris with an experienced guide and equipment are a popular activity in the area.

All of the boat activities operate daily and can be arranged through Bakers Lodge which has its own fleet of boats and can pick you up from the lodge for the various excursions.  Special arrangements can also be made for breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks or sundowners on board. You can also make your safari more interesting by combining the boats and a safari drive.  Cruise down the Nile River to the delta by boat at sunrise to experience the area from the water and then return with a game drive through the Buligi area which offers a number of tracks and where wildlife abounds.

Chimpanzee trekking can be done in the nearby Budongo forest where you can observe chimpanzees in their natural habitat as well as other primates such a black and white colobus monkeys.  This gentle walk through the forest is an amazing way to experience the sounds of an equatorial tropical rainforest.

For me, the highlight of my stay at Bakers Lodge was the proximity to the river and the spectacular views of it from anywhere around lodge.  I loved the slightly elevated bird’s eye 180 degree river views from the wooden deck of the main lodge and from my cottage the front roll up floor to ceiling large window was pure indulgence.  Lying comfortably on the bed, gazing at the river and listening to the birds, every tension in my entire body melted away.

If you are planning a trip to Murchison Falls NP, throw yourself back into the time of exploration at Bakers Lodge.  Sit in luxury on the banks of the Nile River and imagine what it was like for Samuel Baker to discover this amazing part of Uganda.
For more information and reservations:
Uganda – Wild Frontiers Exclusive Camps & Lodges
PO Box 619, Entebbe, Uganda
Tel/Fax: +256 414 321 479
Mobile: +256 772 721 155
Email: reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
www.ugandaexclusivecamps.com

Luxury in Harmony with Nature - Kyambura Gorge Lodge

Perched on the hillside above Kyambura Gorge is a new gem in Uganda.  Volcanoes Kyambura Gorge Lodge offers astounding views over the Kyambura gorge, the plains of the Albertine Rift Valley, Queen Elizabeth National Park and the Rwenzori Mountains as the backdrop.  Whether you are going to Queen Elizabeth Park for a safari or to get away from the city, the lodge offers a quiet comfortable retreat abundant with natural beauty.

Main Lodge Building

We set off from Kampala early on a wet Saturday morning headed for Kyambura Gorge Lodge.  We drove via Masaka and Mbarara, although road construction was underway we experienced only short delays and a fantastic new road.  It didn’t stay cold and damp for long and by the time that we reached the equator, we were peeling off our sweaters.  The equator is always an enjoyable stop no matter how many times you have crossed over.  Uganda being one of less than 13 countries in the world that the equator passes through makes it an experience not to be missed.  As we drive past Lake Mburo National Park,

we see several zebra grazing near the road as well as many crested cranes.  The scenery through Bushyenyi is beautiful, the road meanders back and forth through tea plantations and more banana trees than you can imagine.  Soon we reach the top of the escarpment and stop at a viewpoint for a breathtaking view over the Albertine Rift Valley.  As we descend into the valley we turn off the main road and after a short distance arrive at our destination.

We are welcomed to Kyambura Gorge Lodge with big smiles and handshakes from a few of the people who we will see and interact with throughout our stay.  As our bags are unloaded we are drawn into the reception area and our eyes take in the creative African décor.  A woman offers us fresh juice and we are invited outside onto a large platform with views across the
plains.  As we marvel at the view we are given an introduction to the lodge, its facilities and history.   This contemporary eco-lodge is built on what was originally a coffee plantation.  Several buildings were carefully restored while others were newly constructed in keeping with the same style and feel as those restored.

The reception area gives us a small taste of what awaits us but now we are eager to see more.  We are led down a stone pathway that winds through the natural bush to our accommodation, an elevated wooden banda.  Each banda has its own unique name; we stayed in Emiti which means “tree”.  It is aptly named as it is built next to a very large old fig tree.  Just a few steps down off the main pathway we enter our banda onto a large covered area with a porch swing facing the views.  We step inside though a large sliding

Emiti

door.  Each banda embraces a different color theme and Emiti is yellow with splashes of it in various forms throughout the completely wooden room.  Inside there is a sitting area, a large built in window seat, 2 generous sized single beds with mosquitoes nets and a set of double doors that lead to a partially covered porch with a couple of appropriately colored chairs.  Through another wooden sliding door is a walk in closet with a built in wooden bench to sit on or store your bags on with a row of pegs and hangers above for clothes.  Inside the bench is a digital safe for keeping your valuables.  The closet is the bridge between the sleeping area and the bathroom. Everything about the bathroom is pure luxury. There is lots of space in between the double sinks, toilet, shower and another large built in window seat.  There is plenty of hot water for both of us to have showers at night and in the morning and the water pressure is excellent. Overall, the banda is spacious and filled with natural light.  It is obvious that a lot of thought has been put into the design unlike any place we’ve seen before.  Its luxury and comfort in harmony with nature.

Dining Room

The main lodge building was the original coffee store and processing plant and has been restored to a spacious oasis.  The large open space is divided into separate areas with unique room dividers which create different areas without losing the feeling of openness.  There are plenty of different chairs, sofa’s and seats to choose from, there is something for everyone.  If sitting inside isn’t for you, there is a large covered verandah. At the end of the day, we convene with our friends in the dining area of the main lodge. The large dining table is surrounding by an eclectic variety of dining chairs.  Around the table we talk about the day, discuss in length what we should do the next day, share stories of past safaris, laugh, cherish the joys of being in good company and enjoy a three course meal.  We are offered choices for the starter and the main course including vegetarian options.   My husband and I selected different options so that we could try everything.  We weren’t disappointed with any of our choices; the food was plentiful and delicious.  My pork chop was one of the best I’ve ever had and the meat was falling off the bone, served with creamy mashed potatoes and perfectly crunchy beans and carrots.  My husband’s coq au vin was tender and full of flavor served with roast potatoes and vegetables.  A very sticky rich toffee pudding was the final course served.  After a hot cup of tea we retired to our banda to fall asleep to the sound of the Kyambura River rushing below in the gorge.

The day starts before the crack of dawn with a knock on the door and a tray of hot coffee and fresh orange cake.  We relish in the warmth of the coffee before setting out into the cool crisp misty morning.  Before leaving on our morning drive we sit down to a cooked breakfast made to order served with fresh juice and toast while watching the darkness turn into daylight.  After a great breakfast we drive into the Queen Elizabeth National Park.   We’re not disappointed for the early start as we lay eyes on a lioness and

shortly thereafter a hyena.  After a successful and beautiful drive in Queen Elizabeth enjoying the wildlife and the African landscape we return to the lodge.  This gives us some time to relax on the verandah of the main lodge with a cold drink and see what we can find looking through the large spotting scope.  It’s not long before the staff beckons us to a set table to enjoy a light two course lunch of salad and vegetable couscous.  In the afternoon we take the boat trip on the Kazinga Channel and are treated with seeing a leopard, elephants, buffalo, hippo, crocodiles and numerous species of birds.  The day ends on a high since after nine years and dozens of game drives this is our first opportunity to see leopard.  With the sun starting to lower in the sky, we make it back to the lodge in time to see a beautiful sunset. The mood around the dining table tonight is exuberant.  Over a glass of wine and more delicious food we recall the highlights of the day.  We opted for game viewing in the park during our stay, however other activities nearby include trekking Chimpanzee’s, bird watching, walking and exploring the surrounding communities.

The next morning we are again woken with a knock and a tray of coffee and cake, only this time we are getting ready for a trip back to Kampala.  We feel like we have to tear ourselves away.  We don’t want to leave the comfort and quiet of this stunning lodge.  The hospitality that we have experienced over the last couple of days is second to none and with a heavy heart we climb into the car.  As we look out the window we see the entire staff of Kyambura Gorge Lodge including the kitchen staff smiling, waving and wishing us a safe journey.  As we drive away we hear lot’s of voices chiming “see you next time”.  It is without doubt they will be seeing us again!

At present there are four banda’s with a further four under construction and due to open in 2012.  When we visited the pool, changing rooms and massage room was still under construction but nearing completion and scheduled to open soon.

Booking Information
salesug@volcanoessafaris.com
+256 414 346464

Originally published in The Eye Magazine December-January 2012

Playing Peek A Boo with a Hippo

One of our most memorable safari experiences and one that we talk about often happened several years ago while we were on safari in the Queen Elizabeth National Park.  After a satisfying lunch at Mweya Lodge, we decided to go out for an afternoon game drive.  Many people say that there is not a lot to see during the hot afternoon hours, but this encounter would prove those people wrong.

Just several kilometres away from the lodge along the channel track, we rounded a corner and next to the road was a pool of muddy water with a massive muddy body lumbering away from it.  It was a hippo.  They are amazing creatures to see out of the water so on this particular instance we decided to give the pool of water and the vehicle a bit of space, turn off the engine and see if the hippo would eventually return to his wallow.  We fully expected that it would run off and find another retreat from the blazing sun and the heat.

After about 15 minutes of keeping our voices to a whisper, we saw the hippo peek out of the bushes quite a distance from the car.  It paused for a moment to assess the situation and then retreated back into the bushes.  Again, we waited for another 15 minutes before seeing it again.  This time it was much closer than the first time and again, peeking out of the bushes, another assessment and another retreat.  We continued our waiting game and then saw it peeking out of the bushes at us, right next to the giant puddle.  After staring at our vehicle for quite some time, we were obviously seen as no threat and the hippo fully emerged from the bushes and as gently as a hippo could, got back into its puddle.

We were so amazed at the process of checking if the coast was clear and how with each inquiry, it was getting closer and closer to us.  This experience was definitely worth waiting around for, when else would we get the opportunity of playing peek-a-boo with a hippo!

King of the Mountain

On safari it takes a sharp eye to spot animals due to their ability to camouflage so well with their environment. This is an impressive rocky outcrop in the Kidepo Valley National Park isn't it?

That's what I thought until Kevin pointed out that rocks don't have tails that they can flick. Great spotting!!  The amazing thing about animals is that they always know you are there and I often think they see us when we don't see them.  After all, it is their turf so they're going to know if someone's in it.

This male lion gave us a Disney like experience.  He was lying on the highest point in the vicinity and made several efforts to show us that he was the king of the mountain.  We admired this mighty beast for quite awhile during which he, took a couple cat naps, got up and stretched a few times and glanced over to remind us that he knew we were watching it all.

A simply magnificent experience and one which makes you look at things a little closer when on safari!

Into the Wild at Kidepo Valley National Park

Standing in the vast openness, I stare up at the night sky and am in awe of what I see, more stars than I ever knew existed. The Milky Way is a smear in the sky. Looking up at this is the end to a perfect day in the African bush. There is a part of me that wants to keep this special place a secret but it wouldn’t be fair not to share what a wonderful place the Kidepo Valley National Park and my unforgettable stay at N’ga Moru Wilderness Camp.

I have wanted to visit Kidepo Valley NP for many years and finally had my chance. My husband and I packed up the beloved Land Rover and together with family from overseas we set off full of anticipation to find out what this park was all about. Tucked in North Eastern Uganda and bordering the Sudan and Kenya we knew that getting there was going to be part of the fun. An early start from Kampala had us out onto the open road heading north and before we knew it we were crossing over the Nile and the stunning Karuma Falls. We arrive in Gulu and take a break to have some lunch, a cold drink and stretch our legs before driving to Kitgum for an overnight stop at Fugly’s.  Fugly’s is a great spot to overnight to break up the journey. The drinks are cold, the food is good and there is a pool.  The next morning we woke up to the birds singing and the sun shining.  After a cup of coffee and some breakfast, we filled up with fuel and hit the road headed towards the Kidepo Valley.

The 2 ½ hour drive from Kitgum to the N’ga Moru Wilderness Camp was my favorite part of the drive. The graded murram road passes by numerous small villages with clusters of mud and thatch huts. Children lined the roadside waving, dancing and shouting out greetings. The road winds through the Keler and Loniyili mountain ranges and offers some amazing views. It’s not the kind of drive that you want to rush because there are so many places to stop and admire the scenery. 

Some people we met walking on the road in the pass
Mom has sheltered the baby on her back from the sun with a large gourd, a common practice in the north

As we dropped down into the Kidepo Valley, the way to the camp is clearly marked with signs. We arrive just before lunch and sit down with our hosts, the proprietors of N’ga Moru and Fugly’s, Patrick and Lyn.  They are always welcoming and a joy to sit and chat with and are full of information about the park and surrounding area.  It doesn't take long to realize that they love the African bush and they revel in the joy of sharing it with their guests.  Over some nice food and great company we periodically gaze out across the valley to admire the Morungule Mountains in the distance.

The camp sits on 98 acres on the border of the park. N’ga Moru means “The Place of Rocks” and just a few minutes into our late afternoon drive, I soon understand that the name is appropriate. We explore the area around the wilderness camp and there is plenty of game on the property and the views over the valley are outstanding. Kidpeo is so remote, unspoilt and pristine, you truly feel like you are in one of the last great wildernesses. 

On Safari

Our accommodation is a large luxury canvas tent tucked under a thatched roof with a large toilet and shower ensuite. The beauty of the tents is that there is no need for mosquito nets; essentially you are sleeping in a giant net. Keeping the flaps of the tent open allows for lots of fresh air and the sounds of park night-life. Next to the tent under the thatch roof is a veranda with a couple of safari chairs that face the valley, a perfect spot to sit and take it all in. 

Our tent under thatch roof with stunning views over the valley

At the end of every day you’ll find a fire ablaze in the large fire pit encircled by chairs.  What a perfect place to sit down enjoy the sunset over the mountains. With a cold drink in hand there isn’t anything more I could ask for, a stunning location, great company and a beautiful African sunset. 

After dinner Patrick takes us out on a night drive. After about 10 minutes of driving through the darkness waving our floodlights back and forth, we heard a large noise in the bushes, an elephant not far off the road. What a fantastic sighting, but the best was yet to come! I was sharing the back seat of the open air vehicle with a friend and we could hear a loud puffing noise coming from behind us. We shone our lights around to where the noise is coming from and see an extremely large puff adder; it was easily six feet long.  It was the largest puff adder that any of us had ever seen. We sat in silence as it moved off the road and disappeared into the bush with all its grace and beauty, marveling at the pattern of its skin. I am not a big fan of snakes, but do think they are beautiful to admire from a distance.  To witness this was a truly amazing sight!!

In the morning, we were woken by the light just in time to see a giant orange ball emerge from behind the mountains and flood the valley with daylight. Another day begins; the only question is what it will hold. After some breakfast, we’re off for a game drive in the park.  It is a 10 minute drive to the Katarum Gate where we enter KVNP. Immediately we see a rock hyrax scurrying along the cliffs nearby. The drives are beautiful and there’s lots to see including a herd of buffalo which is rumored to be the largest standing herd in East Africa. The buffalo are on the move and it’s incredible to watch. There are also elephants, lion, zebra, giraffe, warthogs, crocodiles, oribi, waterbuck, bushbuck, reedbuck and numerous species of birds for us to enjoy. There is so much more I can tell you about this place and the three days that we spent there, but the best is to go and discover it for yourself, you won’t be disappointed. N’ga Moru is a real bush experience in one of the most beautiful and remote parks in East Africa, Kidepo Valley National Park. 

N’ga Moru Wilderness Camp

Website: www.ngamoru.com

Mobile: +256 754 500555

Email:ngamoruwildernesscamp@gmail.com.

Elephant in Kidepo Valley National Park