Uganda Carnivore Program

Climb aboard any safari vehicle and ask guests what they want to see most and the answer is generally unanimous.....big cats.  Lions and leopards are the most popular animals that people want to see while on safari.  Unfortunately, due to ongoing pressures of growing human populations, the populations of large carnivores, mainly lions, leopards and hyenas are decreasing as a result of habitat loss.  Thankfully, the Uganda Carnivore Program, in close collaboration with the Uganda Wildlife Authority, is working hard to minimize human wildlife conflict and is dedicated to monitoring, researching and conserving the large predators in Uganda.

The Uganda Carnivore Program bases its core activities in the northern sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park in western Uganda.  The pressures facing the carnivores of this area are not unique, but rather are typically experienced throughout Africa.  As human populations increase in the areas surrounding the park and its enclave villages, the conflict between wildlife and humans rise. The Uganda Carnivore Program (“UCP”) takes a multi-disciplinary approach to conservation.  Since the mid 1990s, they have focused on training and research as well as community-based activities that increase local participation in conservation and promote human-wildlife coexistence.  Working in conjunction with the Uganda Wildlife Authority, their research consists of monitoring carnivore ecology and health and tracking their movements near “conflict zones” where there is the potential to come in contact with people and livestock.  UCP makes recommendations to the UWA in regards to management of carnivores and also assists in the mitigation process during times of human-wildlife conflict. 

UCP also works closely with the villages surrounding the park on education and methods to reduce the conflict between the villagers and the wildlife.  Through the research and monitoring of the animals, villages can be warned when predators are in the area and given the tactics and skills to protect themselves and their livestock.  Between 2006 and 2012 the primary cause of death to large carnivores in the northern sector of Queen Elizabeth NP was human related, with poisoning in retaliation for livestock depredation being the number one cause.  However, in the past three years, there have been no recorded incidences of poisoning in the villages in which UCP works. UCP educates people on the benefits of wildlife and aids them in developing community based programs in which they can directly benefit from local tourism.  Current activities of the UCP include conservation education outreach programs in village schools which inform the youth of the village about the important role that wildlife has to play and the importance of conservation efforts for long term sustainability.

An important aspect of the Uganda Carnivore Program is educating visitors on the wildlife of the park as well as the people that live in the surrounding areas of Queen Elizabeth NP.  The best way to learn more is to participate in the lion tracking experience.  Bookings for this can be made through the Uganda Wildlife Authority.  You can contact UCP to arrange a visit to the park’s villages, where you can watch cultural performances and purchase locally made crafts.  Besides visiting Queen Elizabeth NP and participating in the activities offered, how can you help protect the large carnivores?  The UCP operates on limited funds and welcomes support for their initiatives.  This can be done in several ways, either by making a donation or by sponsoring certain aspects of their activities.  To find out more and how you can be of help, visit the Uganda Carnivore website to learn more about their activities and contact them directly. 

It’s hard to imagine going on safari and not having the opportunity to see large carnivores.  As human beings, we all play an important role in the conservation efforts needed to combat the pressure that growing populations are placing on wildlife.  We all need to do our part and play an active role in protecting them; our wildlife and large carnivores are depending on us!

For more information
http://www.uganda-carnivores.org
https://www.facebook.com/uganda.carnivores
contact@uganda-carnivores.org

Uganda Balloon Safari

Flying over Queen Elizabeth NP

It was barely light when we climbed into the large woven basket.  As we surveyed our surroundings, the pilot blasted the burners above our heads a couple of times.  The lead member of the ground crew smiled at us and said “you’re flying by the way” I looked over the edge of the basket and we were indeed floating a few inches off the ground.  Another few blasts of the burner and we were a few feet off the ground.  This was just the beginning of an hour floating over the beautiful savannah of Queen Elizabeth National Park.  This new activity that has been recently introduced to Uganda, takes watching the sunrise and looking for lions to a whole new level, literally.

Our experience began in the dark.  The ground crew met us at the Kasenyi gate at 5:30am and after some tests to determine wind direction and speed, a takeoff location was determined and we followed the crew there.  When we arrived, we met our Egyptian pilot Mohammed, who briefed us on what we were about to experience.  As we sipped our steaming cups of coffee, the crew unpacked the balloon and began the cold inflation process using large fans.  I was quite surprised at the size of the balloon, it was much larger than I expected with a capacity of 300,000 cubic feet. 

Inside the balloon

Once the balloon was mostly inflated, we were invited inside, which was pretty amazing.  We learned about the internal workings of the balloon and about the ropes used by the pilot to control the balloon during flight.  Next the hot inflation began, with the burners blasting hot air into the balloon, it slowly started to rise up off the ground in a vertical position.  Once fully inflated, it was time to get in for our flight.

Once inside the basket, we slowly began to lift up off the ground and could hear lions in a nearby thicket.  Our pilot Mohammed was a friendly guy with incredible piloting skills.  Using varying altitudes he navigated us over the thicket several times in hopes of spotting the lions that we could hear.  Although they were very vocal, they were well hidden and eluded us.  As the sun rose, we enjoyed views of the savannah and Lake George while elephant, hippo, and antelope wandered below us.  Our flight varied between a few feet from the ground to an altitude of 2000 feet.  The sensation of flying in a balloon is hard to describe as it’s like nothing else.  Floating above the park, the silence of the savannah below is only periodically broken by blasts from the burners.  The perspective from the

Inflating the balloon with hot air

balloon is truly unique.  We are so used to seeing our surroundings from the ground, however this bird's eye view gives a new appreciation for the entire ecosystem.  Small veins of dark green vegetation carrying water to depressions in the earth where water collects intersected by trails made by wildlife.  Flying just inches over the tops of Euphorbia trees and seeing the thickets from above was the most fascinating part for me.  Flights generally last approximately an hour depending on winds and the availability of a suitable landing site.

After the flight we were met by the ground crew and celebrated the traditional way with a glass of bubbly before sitting down to a delicious bush breakfast.  Fresh juice, tea, coffee, cereal, yogurt and a selection cooked items were served by Mweya Lodge.  Dining in the bush and discussing the details of the flight made for an unforgettable finale to our adventure.

Uganda Balloon Safaris is fully certified by the Civil Aviation Authority and has over 10 years of flying experience in Egypt, Turkey and now Uganda.  Their expertise is evident by the professionalism of the entire crew.  Hot air ballooning over Queen Elizabeth NP offers a unique way to start the day on safari.  As no two flights are the same, you are guaranteed an exclusive experience that you’ll never forget.  

RESERVATIONS AND BOOKING INFORMATION
www.ugandaballoonsafari.com
info@ugandaballoonsafari.com
+256 (0) 759 00 2552  

Sunrise over Queen Elizabeth Natrional Park as seen from the hot air balloon

Tree Climbing Lions of Ishasha

In the southern sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park lies the Ishasha sector. For many years we have wanted to visit for the main purpose of seeing the most famous residents, tree climbing lions.  It is completely unknown why the lions of this area climb up into giant fig and acacia tree's to hang around.  The lions of Ishasha have been climbing the trees for decades and have passed the adaptation down from generation to generation. Whether they are still climbing for the same reason as when they started, again no one knows.

It was along the Fig Tree Track that we rounded a bend in the road and on the right was a huge fig tree with two lionesses draped over its large thick limbs. We parked under the tree to observe them in this rare scene, they periodically gazed down at us and then back out over the horizon. In the heat of the day and with stomachs swollen full of food they occasionally repositioned themselves in the tree.  It was truly an amazing sight to behold!

Ishasha is renowned for tree climbing lions but we were pleasantly surprised that there is more to this area of Queen Elizabeth National Park than the lions.  The landscape of Ishasha is made up of riverine forests and savannah grasslands and has a real feeling of remoteness.  Ishasha is home to the only Topi found in QENP as well as many other savannah animals. The Ishasha River to the west forms the border to the Democratic Republic of Congo and is where you will find hippos.  The Ishasha sector of QENP should not be missed, it offers a superb and unforgettable safari experience!

Tree Climbing Lions of Ishasha - Photo Gallery

View from under the tree

An Epic Road Trip Concludes

After 21 days on the road and approximately 3000 km/1865 miles travelled, our epic journey through Uganda and Rwanda has concluded.  We have seen a vast amount which has created long lasting memories.  As with any journey, naturally there are highlights, here are a few.

	Tracking Mountain Gorillas The opportunity to come face to face with a group of mountain gorillas in their natural habitat is simply magical.  It is difficult to describe what a special experience it is and we will never forget the time that we spent with the Susa group in the Virunga Mountain Range of Rwanda.
	Tree Climbing Lions of Ishasha It has long been a dream to see the tree climbing lions of Ishasha.  We had plans to visit 4 years ago but had to cancel due to instability in the nearby Democratic Republic of Congo resulting in the area being considered unsafe to visit.  We were excited to visit the area on this trip and on our second day in the Ishasha sector of QENP we rounded a corner to see 2 lionesses draped in a large fig tree, we were so happy to realize a dream!
	Lake Kivu A previously unknown part of the world to us, Lake Kivu is an impressive place.  The lake lies in the East Albertine Rift Valley and is surrounded by mountains.  The area is very peaceful, relaxing and is a perfect place to chill out and unwind while gazing across to the Democratic Republic of Congo while wondering what mysteries it holds.
	Ugandan Back-Roads We used to spend our weekends in Canada discovering back-roads and 4x4 tracks.  We prefer the road less travelled and getting off the highways so winding through the mountains of Uganda from Buhoma to Lake Bunyonyi was an experience to remember.
	Lake Bunyonyi Crayfish Lake Bunyonyi is the deepest crater lake in Uganda and is known for it's freshwater crayfish.  We bought a bucket full of live crayfish from a local fisherman and cooked them up at our camp.  We feasted on the local delicacy, peeling and eating every morsel of their delicious meat.

Luxury in Harmony with Nature - Kyambura Gorge Lodge

Perched on the hillside above Kyambura Gorge is a new gem in Uganda.  Volcanoes Kyambura Gorge Lodge offers astounding views over the Kyambura gorge, the plains of the Albertine Rift Valley, Queen Elizabeth National Park and the Rwenzori Mountains as the backdrop.  Whether you are going to Queen Elizabeth Park for a safari or to get away from the city, the lodge offers a quiet comfortable retreat abundant with natural beauty.

Main Lodge Building

We set off from Kampala early on a wet Saturday morning headed for Kyambura Gorge Lodge.  We drove via Masaka and Mbarara, although road construction was underway we experienced only short delays and a fantastic new road.  It didn’t stay cold and damp for long and by the time that we reached the equator, we were peeling off our sweaters.  The equator is always an enjoyable stop no matter how many times you have crossed over.  Uganda being one of less than 13 countries in the world that the equator passes through makes it an experience not to be missed.  As we drive past Lake Mburo National Park,

we see several zebra grazing near the road as well as many crested cranes.  The scenery through Bushyenyi is beautiful, the road meanders back and forth through tea plantations and more banana trees than you can imagine.  Soon we reach the top of the escarpment and stop at a viewpoint for a breathtaking view over the Albertine Rift Valley.  As we descend into the valley we turn off the main road and after a short distance arrive at our destination.

We are welcomed to Kyambura Gorge Lodge with big smiles and handshakes from a few of the people who we will see and interact with throughout our stay.  As our bags are unloaded we are drawn into the reception area and our eyes take in the creative African décor.  A woman offers us fresh juice and we are invited outside onto a large platform with views across the
plains.  As we marvel at the view we are given an introduction to the lodge, its facilities and history.   This contemporary eco-lodge is built on what was originally a coffee plantation.  Several buildings were carefully restored while others were newly constructed in keeping with the same style and feel as those restored.

The reception area gives us a small taste of what awaits us but now we are eager to see more.  We are led down a stone pathway that winds through the natural bush to our accommodation, an elevated wooden banda.  Each banda has its own unique name; we stayed in Emiti which means “tree”.  It is aptly named as it is built next to a very large old fig tree.  Just a few steps down off the main pathway we enter our banda onto a large covered area with a porch swing facing the views.  We step inside though a large sliding

Emiti

door.  Each banda embraces a different color theme and Emiti is yellow with splashes of it in various forms throughout the completely wooden room.  Inside there is a sitting area, a large built in window seat, 2 generous sized single beds with mosquitoes nets and a set of double doors that lead to a partially covered porch with a couple of appropriately colored chairs.  Through another wooden sliding door is a walk in closet with a built in wooden bench to sit on or store your bags on with a row of pegs and hangers above for clothes.  Inside the bench is a digital safe for keeping your valuables.  The closet is the bridge between the sleeping area and the bathroom. Everything about the bathroom is pure luxury. There is lots of space in between the double sinks, toilet, shower and another large built in window seat.  There is plenty of hot water for both of us to have showers at night and in the morning and the water pressure is excellent. Overall, the banda is spacious and filled with natural light.  It is obvious that a lot of thought has been put into the design unlike any place we’ve seen before.  Its luxury and comfort in harmony with nature.

Dining Room

The main lodge building was the original coffee store and processing plant and has been restored to a spacious oasis.  The large open space is divided into separate areas with unique room dividers which create different areas without losing the feeling of openness.  There are plenty of different chairs, sofa’s and seats to choose from, there is something for everyone.  If sitting inside isn’t for you, there is a large covered verandah. At the end of the day, we convene with our friends in the dining area of the main lodge. The large dining table is surrounding by an eclectic variety of dining chairs.  Around the table we talk about the day, discuss in length what we should do the next day, share stories of past safaris, laugh, cherish the joys of being in good company and enjoy a three course meal.  We are offered choices for the starter and the main course including vegetarian options.   My husband and I selected different options so that we could try everything.  We weren’t disappointed with any of our choices; the food was plentiful and delicious.  My pork chop was one of the best I’ve ever had and the meat was falling off the bone, served with creamy mashed potatoes and perfectly crunchy beans and carrots.  My husband’s coq au vin was tender and full of flavor served with roast potatoes and vegetables.  A very sticky rich toffee pudding was the final course served.  After a hot cup of tea we retired to our banda to fall asleep to the sound of the Kyambura River rushing below in the gorge.

The day starts before the crack of dawn with a knock on the door and a tray of hot coffee and fresh orange cake.  We relish in the warmth of the coffee before setting out into the cool crisp misty morning.  Before leaving on our morning drive we sit down to a cooked breakfast made to order served with fresh juice and toast while watching the darkness turn into daylight.  After a great breakfast we drive into the Queen Elizabeth National Park.   We’re not disappointed for the early start as we lay eyes on a lioness and

shortly thereafter a hyena.  After a successful and beautiful drive in Queen Elizabeth enjoying the wildlife and the African landscape we return to the lodge.  This gives us some time to relax on the verandah of the main lodge with a cold drink and see what we can find looking through the large spotting scope.  It’s not long before the staff beckons us to a set table to enjoy a light two course lunch of salad and vegetable couscous.  In the afternoon we take the boat trip on the Kazinga Channel and are treated with seeing a leopard, elephants, buffalo, hippo, crocodiles and numerous species of birds.  The day ends on a high since after nine years and dozens of game drives this is our first opportunity to see leopard.  With the sun starting to lower in the sky, we make it back to the lodge in time to see a beautiful sunset. The mood around the dining table tonight is exuberant.  Over a glass of wine and more delicious food we recall the highlights of the day.  We opted for game viewing in the park during our stay, however other activities nearby include trekking Chimpanzee’s, bird watching, walking and exploring the surrounding communities.

The next morning we are again woken with a knock and a tray of coffee and cake, only this time we are getting ready for a trip back to Kampala.  We feel like we have to tear ourselves away.  We don’t want to leave the comfort and quiet of this stunning lodge.  The hospitality that we have experienced over the last couple of days is second to none and with a heavy heart we climb into the car.  As we look out the window we see the entire staff of Kyambura Gorge Lodge including the kitchen staff smiling, waving and wishing us a safe journey.  As we drive away we hear lot’s of voices chiming “see you next time”.  It is without doubt they will be seeing us again!

At present there are four banda’s with a further four under construction and due to open in 2012.  When we visited the pool, changing rooms and massage room was still under construction but nearing completion and scheduled to open soon.

Booking Information
salesug@volcanoessafaris.com
+256 414 346464

Originally published in The Eye Magazine December-January 2012