Mihingo Lodge

Mihingo Main Lodge

I was falling into a deep sleep when a noise woke me.  I’d thought I had heard the whinny of a zebra, but much to my surprise, I was at home in Kampala and it wasn’t a zebra I had heard.  Sigh, clearly my mind was still at Mihingo Lodge and rightfully so as it’s a spectacular place to be.  Perched high atop a rocky outcropping on the fringes of Lake Mburo National Park, Mihingo Lodge offers commanding views over the park.  Nestled into the bush, the lodge melts into the landscape and you feel you have become a part of the nature around you as Vervet monkeys chatter, cicadas buzz and Ross’s turacos engage in duets of comical cackling.  The lodge may be secluded but luxury is not spared here, Mihingo Lodge offers the finest that the bush has to offer.

The centrepiece of Mihingo is the main lodge, dining and bar area, a superb place to relax and take it all in.  With no Wi-Fi and no reminders of the daily grind, you can truly escape, here and soak up the magic of Mihingo.  Whether it is on a chaise lounge next to the infinity pool, on an oversized bean bag in the top of the tower that boasts 360 degree views or with a drink in the bar, the view never gets boring.  It’s better than any DVD or television documentary I’ve ever seen.  This is live view and it’s wonderful!  At times it’s hard to even imagine that the hustle and bustle of Kampala is just four hours away, as it feels like light years.

The view of Lake Mburo NP from the main lodge overlooking the infinity pool

In the bar, a large built in adobe style sofa curves around the granite rock protruding from the wall.  Books and other informational materials are piled up on a ledge while paraffin lanterns glow in little alcoves on the wall.  Head barman Michael will greet you with his big smile and serve you your drink of choice from the fully stocked bar.  Every evening the bar serves pre dinner nibbles during which time, you will be invited to join in one of the lodges most unique experiences, the opportunity to observe thick-tailed Gallagos commonly known as Bush Babies, in their natural environment.  Over the years, the Bush Babies have grown accustomed to guests and on most evenings visit the Bush Baby platform below the bar.  These fascinating little primates look like a curious combination of species and are just too cute for words.  As they move about, Mugisha who has been interacting with them for over 7 years will answer all your questions.  As he gives his answers, it’s obvious he has a deep passion for these quirky little creatures.  After eating a couple of banana pieces, the bush babies disappear back into the trees to forage for food during the night.

The bar and lounge area

A bush baby

Meals are served in the dining area located in between the bar and the lounge. The dining room overlooks a watering hole and salt lick so is not only a place to enjoy good food, but the wildlife and view as well. Mihingo Lodge’s delectable cuisine has been developed mostly from family recipes.  A fusion of flavours incorporating fresh produce and herbs makes the meals healthy and satisfying. An aquaponic garden on the property ensures that the food you eat if of the utmost freshness often times being picked only hours before and you can taste the difference.  Breakfast is a selection of fresh fruit, juice, cereal, muesli and yogurt.  Eggs are cooked to order and served with the sides of your choice (bacon, sausages, mushrooms, tomatoes and beans) alongside homemade toast.  Lunches and dinners are both three course meals.  Grilled aubergines, smoked Nile Perch, chilled avocado soup, beef vindaloo, chicken with tarragon, pan fried beef fillet, mango cream, chocolate brownie and key lime pie are some of the fabulous dishes we had during our stay.  Pair these with one of the wines from the wine list and you’re all set.  I really can’t overemphasize how good the food is at Mihingo Lodge, it was a highlight of our stay!  In the evenings a campfire is lit next to the dining area and is an exceptional place to sit out under the stars, let your dinner settle, have a night cap and listen to the hyenas whooping in the valley below.

A dining experience with a view

Mihingo Lodge consists of 12 luxury tented rooms on raised wooden decks under thatch roofs.  The large beige canvas bedroom has screened windows on all four sides for an open feeling and uninhibited views.  The spacious rooms are luxurious but they don’t scream pretentiousness, but rather gently whisper relax.  The rooms are tastefully decorated with leather furniture and local African crafts and fabrics.  Outside is a large partially covered veranda which has a daybed and a couple of chairs.  It’s inviting place to sit and gaze at the astonishing views.  Each of the tented rooms at Mihingo is unique and offers their own special view and experience.  There is plenty of space between the tented rooms so you can enjoy privacy and solitude.  Our first couple of nights were spent in Klipspringer (room 11) which was all about the sweeping views over the valley below and Lake Kacheera.  The room is situated next to large granite boulders that bulge out from the earth and sandwich a crevasse filled with water that attracts animals. The water filled crevice is completely covered by Nile cabbage and home to terrapins and a night time chorus of frogs.  On our first afternoon at Mihingo, our veranda turned into our own private viewing platform for an entire troop of monkeys getting up to their usual tomfoolery.  That night, the room lived up to its name “Klipspringer” when a family of 3 klipspringers ambled over the rocks, then tucked their legs underneath their bodies and lay down to spend the night there.  Not far from where they lay were two large waterbuck munching on the grass.  This is the kind of place that you really don’t want to go to sleep as you just might miss something.

Our tented room at Mihingo Lodge

Inside the tented room

Our last night was spent in Impala (room 10) which was more of a bush experience with its own private view of a salt lick.  As we relaxed with a book on the deck, impala, baboons, warthogs and bushbuck wandered to and from the lick. The tented rooms at Mihingo are extremely spacious and pleasant. The king sized bed is a comfortable place to lay your head at night and fall asleep listening to the night noises of the park.  Each room has a considerable sized ensuite bathroom with flushing toilet and alluring views that you can enjoy while you shower.

Mihingo Lodge has extended their accommodation options and is now offering self catering accommodation for groups and families in the Bush Camp.  The camp consists of one room with a double bed and ensuite solar hot water shower, 1 tent with a double bed, outdoor solar hot water shower and a long drop toilet and 1 tent designed for children with 4 single beds and outside shower and toilet.  Other facilities include a large sitting and dining room with veranda, fully equipped kitchen and a store room for food with solar powered chest fridge and chest freezer.  The camp is intended for groups to self cater their meals and drinks and access to the facilities of the lodge are not allowed.  However, activities offered by the lodge such as the horseback safaris, bike safaris and walking safaris can be booked by Bush Camp residents.  For more information on the camp or booking information, contact reservations@mihingolodge.com

Mihingo Lodge offers a variety of activities, more than can be taken in on a single visit, unless you want to extend your stay which I’m sure most every guest contemplates.  The watering hole and salt lick below the main lodge is engaging.  Animals wander in and out from the bushes into view to have a drink and a nibble on the salty soil.  If you want to get a closer look, a quick 15 minute walk from the lodge along a trail, you’ll find “The Hide”.  It’s a great spot to quietly sit for a while and observe the animals.  If you want to get even closer and don’t mind being in a small enclosure, venture a little further down the trail to “The Den”, a great spot for photographers.

Taking photographs inside "The Den"

Massage was an activity we couldn’t resist.  A short walk from the main lodge winds you through the giant boulders the lodge is built on, to a secluded room overlooking the park.  After a couple of days at Mihingo you wouldn’t think there would be any tension left, but the masseuse did seem to find a few lingering spots and gently massaged them away.  This is one massage room that doesn’t require a sound recording.  The breeze blew gently, birds chirped, and we relaxed.
After dinner a night drive is a great activity.  Either inside or outside of the park, it’s your best chance to see nocturnal animals such as owls, hyenas, leopards, white tail mongoose and nightjars.  The lodge has safari vehicles for hire that include a driver and guide.  The vehicle has open sides and spot lights to ensure your night drive is an unforgettable experience.

If you’re tired of being in a car, Mihingo Lodge offers a couple of unique safari experiences, horseback safaris and mountain biking safaris.  Horseback safaris are unique to Lake Mburo NP and are a great way to experience wildlife.  The animals are extremely relaxed around the horses which allow you to get close to them and often see some of the more timid ones up close such as eland.  Without the noise of a vehicle, you can really experience the sounds of nature.  We thoroughly enjoyed our horseback safari and as no previous experience on horses is required, anyone can participate.  The biking safaris will take you exploring the sandy paths around the lodge and riding alongside zebra, impala, warthog and other antelope.  This is great for people that are not comfortable on a horse, but still want to get out into nature.  As the terrain is not extreme, it's a good activity for the whole family.

Horseback Safari

Other activities offered by the lodge are walking safaris, cultural visits, game drives, kids bush courses and for running enthusiasts, a guided run through the community land.
Lake Mburo NP is reputed to be the best place in Uganda to see leopard with guests often spotting them on night game drives.  The leopard population does well in Lake Mburo NP due to the lack of competition from other predators.  Mihingo Lodge has recently started a leopard identification program to learn more about how many leopards are in the area and exactly where their territories are.  A book containing all the information collected to date is kept at the bar and vistor input is encouraged.  To date, 14 different leopards have been recorded and guests are welcome to share their photos along with information such as where the leopard was seen and the date.  It’s a fascinating book to flip through and includes photos, identifying characteristics and other information about each leopard.

A leopard seen on a night drive in Lake Mburo NP

Mihingo Lodge is committed to conservation and protecting the animals in and around the park.  Whenever humans and animals live in close proximity to each other, there is bound to be conflict.  During the time the lodge was built, an entire clan of spotted hyenas were poisoned by community members adjacent to the park.  This was the deciding factor that something should be done to reduce the conflict.  In 2008, the Mihingo Conservation and Community Development Foundation (MCCDF), a nonprofit organization was set up.  The primary goal of the MCCDF is to preserve wildlife outside of the park boundary and reduce the conflict between humans and animals.  They are accomplishing their goal through various means.  A compensation program for livestock killed by park predators has been very successful.  MCCDF also extends support to two primary schools in the area and have involved secondary students in the leopard identification program.  In the near future they are expanding their outreach to the community through various educational programs and the strengthening of animal enclosures where cattle are kept through the night so that animals are less vulnerable to predation.  The MCCDF is very aware that the more the local community is empowered and educated about the role of wildlife, the more eager they will be to protect and conserve it.  Iddy is the young woman in charge of the day to day operations and after chatting to her for only a couple of minutes her passion for everything wildlife and nature related is apparent.  She's extremely knowledgeable in her field and loves to share what she knows and answer questions.  She bubbles about the successes of MCCDF to date, but recognizes that it is an ongoing challenge, one she’s definitely up for.

A young zebra in Lake Mburo NP

Mihingo Lodge is without doubt a phenomenal place to stay, everything thing about it is chilled out luxury.  It is one of the few places in Uganda you actually be woken by the whinny of a zebra.  Don’t make the mistake of many and stay for only one night, stay longer.  Relax, stay awhile and immerse yourself in the magic of Mihingo.

Reservations & Booking Information
Mihingo Lodge
Tel. +256 752 410 509
Email: reservations@mihingolodge.com                          
Website: www.mihingolodge.com

A Horseback Safari in Uganda

Riding through the savannah with zebra in the background

As an intrepid bush lover and safari enthusiast, the idea of experiencing my passion on horseback was extremely intriguing.  Mihingo Lodge is the only place in Uganda that offers horseback safaris in a national park so that is where this first time experience took place.


My husband and I are inexperienced riders and were unsure of how our backsides would fare on a long ride, so we started with a one hour safari in the late afternoon.  The stables are a short distance from Mihingo Lodge where we were spending a couple of nights.  When we arrived at the stables for our safari we were met by Joseph the stable manager.  Joseph showed us around the stables and he introduced us to all of the horses and ponies.   The stables and facilities were clean, organized and had a number of spacious paddocks for the horses to graze.

One of the horses in the stables

After we were acquainted with the facilities it was time to visit the tack room and get ready for our ride.  Trail saddles, stirrups, chaps and helmets are all provided for your guided safari. Riders should wear long pants, a strong pair of shoes and most importantly bring your sense of adventure.  All geared up we were ready to meet our horses.  I was riding Summersong and Kevin had his trusty steed Vallas.  Joseph gave us a few pointers and instruction about riding our horses and we were all set.

Inside the tack room

Ready for the safari

We left the stables and began our safari riding through the savannah.  I had been told that game and wildlife is extremely relaxed around horses allowing riders to get very close to them but some things need to be experienced to be fully understood.   Not only did we get very close to animals but what surprised me the most was their calmness.  We were able to maintain a normal volume of conversation and they didn’t flinch or seem bothered.  Our guides Joseph and Charles were very knowledgeable about the wildlife and their habitat. As we rode through the bush and grassland we came across many species including warthogs, zebra, eland, dwarf mongoose, impala and bush buck as well as various birds. Horseback safaris are not ideal for photography as your hands are needed on the reins and the constant movement is not conducive for photos.  Small manageable point and shoot cameras are ideal.  The whole experience is very relaxing and personal.  While sitting on your horse you can enjoy the scenery and make mental memories.
















Feeling confident after our first ride, we decided to go for a longer one in the morning.  This time we left the stables at 7:30am for a 4 hour ride that took us outside the park towards Lake Kacheera.  Animals were plentiful and the landscape and scenery was beautiful.  For those that have never been on a horseback safari it is a special experience.  Without the confines of a vehicle and a rumbling engine you can take in every sound and every movement.  The horses at Mihingo were relaxed and calm so there was never any fear of being taken on a sudden gallop.  Having no previous experience, I never felt worried or stressed.

After the rides, Mihingo lodge was a stunning place to have a swim in the infinity pool overlooking a waterhole, have a full body massage, enjoy gourmet food and take in a bit of Mihingo magic.  We thoroughly enjoyed our first horseback safari and didn’t suffer from any aches, pains or sore backsides.  We left only with plenty of memories and smiles on our faces.  It was definitely an adventure that we will never forget.
To enjoy a Mihingo horseback safari, no previous experience with horses is necessary.  They are fully equipped for adults and children and offer rides starting from 30 minutes to several hours as well as overnight trips, bush breakfasts and picnic lunches.

For Information & Bookings
http://www.mihingolodge.com
reservations@mihingolodge.com 
+256-752 410 509

Night Drive - Lake Mburo NP

It was the night of the supermoon and we had scheduled a night drive in Lake Mburo National Park.  Unknowingly, we were in for a super night!

We picked up our Uganda Wildlife Authority guide Lawrence just before sunset.  He had a large spotlight with him which wired directly to our car battery.  Lawrence decided to perch himself on the roof of the Land Rover so that he had a good vantage point.  We were all set and started driving towards the Research Track.  By this time the sun had set and darkness was setting in.  From inside the Land Rover we watched as Lawrence moved the spotlight quickly from left to right looking for animals.  It was Kevin that heard Lawrence say "leopard, stop!"  I was driving.  I quickly pressed on the brakes and started looking around "where?"  A male leopard was in front of us and just off of the road to the right.  We turned off the engine and watched as he walked through the grass towards a thicket.  For over 30 minutes we watched the leopard as he slowly made his way from thicket to thicket, pausing at each one to look around and survey his surroundings.  Eventually he walked off into the darkness leaving us with adrenaline pumped bodies and big grins.  Fantastic!!  This sighting was enough for me, I was so happy to have had such a good spotting of a leopard that I was prepared to head back to Mihingo lodge where we were staying and revel in our night drive experience.

As we drove back, we saw buffalo, zebras, a white tailed mongoose and a genet cat. We were not far from the  lodge when Lawrence asked us to turn onto a small track to look for hyena as he knew of the general location they hang around at night.  Close to the road, we saw a figure dart away from an anthill and into the thick bushes nearby.  We shone our lights and could see two eyes staring back at us.  As we crept the vehicle closer to the bush, we realized it was a leopard!!  Another one!  How exciting was this?!  Another male, this time never leaving the protection and cover of the bush.  We admired his beauty, his large golden eyes resembling giant glass marbles, his long whiskers and rosette patterned coat.  After about 30 minutes we decided to leave him and let him get back to his leopard business.  As we drove back to Mihingo, we giggled at our fortune of seeing two separate leopards on one night drive.

If you are visiting Lake Mburo National Park, I can highly recommend this exciting activity. Although there is no guarantee of seeing leopard, a guided night drive gives you the chance to experience the animals in their habitat at night as well as giving you an opportunity to spot nocturnal species.  For us, it was a super night!

Rwakobo Rock - Lake Mburo National Park

Main Lodge with great views over Lake Mburo National Park

Not far from the Nshara Gate at Lake Mburo National Park, on a large outcrop of rocks is Rwakobo Rock, a newly opened family run lodge and restaurant.  The lodge is 8km off the Masaka/Mbarara Highway and is outside of the park which makes it a convenient place to break up your travels, either for lunch or an overnight stay.

The large main lodge overlooks part of Lake Mburo National Park and the adjacent Ankole cattle ranches and homesteads.  This impressive thatched roof structure has a bar and reception area near the entrance, a hammock strung between two eucalyptus poles and a few sofas and chairs to relax in.  There is also a nook with a glass bottle wall and built in adobe style seating covered with cushions, a nice place to sit and enjoy some of the magazines, books and games that are provided.  At the far end is the dining area with a view of the watering hole that has been constructed to attract birds and wildlife.  At the time of my visit, this sizable main building was sparsely furnished.  I was told that more furniture and furnishings were planned to fill the voids and create a more comfortable atmosphere.  Rwakobo Rock definitely has something to grow into.

View from the Main Lodge into Lake Mburo National Park

There are 8 cottages interconnected to the main lodge by murram pathways. Rwakobo Rock offers rock rooms that look out into the community land and bush rooms that are tucked into the surrounding vegetation.  Our cottage was a rock room and was a few minute walk from the main lodge.  We entered the cottage from the back and inside was a large bed covered by a mosquito net, a chair and an open unit for hanging clothes.  Through an archway was the bathroom with sink, large walk in shower and toilet.  Large netted windows in the bathroom make up the one side of the shower and provide a view outside.  Each room has its own solar water system so we had an ample supply of hot water for showers.  The decor and furniture in our cottage was simple and functional.  We did miss not having a towel bar so had to get a little creative with where to hang our wet towels.  Off the front of our cottage was a small veranda with a couple of chairs and a view that looks onto a large relatively flat expanse of rock that drops off into the bush below.  We had coffee delivered to our room in the morning which we sipped while sitting on the veranda, a great place to start the day and enjoy the sunshine while many species of birds drank and bathed in small pools of water on the rocks.

Our cottage

Inside our cottage

The bathroom

During our two nights stay at Rwakobo Rock we enjoyed a number of served meals.  Our first night the set menu was Mexican.  The starter was red onion soup, followed by a main course of Mexican tortillas, beef, beans, salsa, guacamole, sour cream, cheese and rice served as a mini buffet on our table.  The food was very tasty and satisfying and the portions generous.  Dessert was a real treat!  Pumpkin pie with a dollop of fresh cream.  The second night our starter was pumpkin soup followed by a choice of either pan fried fish or pork chops served with vegetables and rice.  Between the two of us we tried both options and once again were not disappointed.  For dessert we were served pineapple upside down cake.  It didn’t consist of a lot of cake but the pineapple was hot sticky and delicious.  Breakfasts at Rwakobo Rock are cooked to order with a choice of eggs done your way, bacon, sausage, beans and toast alongside juice and coffee or tea.  Accommodation rates are half board which leaves you the option to lunch elsewhere or for an additional cost either arrange a packed lunch or have lunch at the lodge.  The first day we didn’t know that there was a packed lunch option. We were on a safari drive in the park, so we nibbled on snacks that we had brought with us from Kampala.  The next day after a late morning game drive we had lunch at the lodge and were given a choice of burgers or a cold meat and cheese platter.  We both chose the platters which were good, refreshing and light on a hot day.

There is no shortage of things to do around Rwakobo Rock if you’re looking for something more than just relaxing and enjoying the views.  Game drives are an obvious choice.  As we were rather unfamiliar with Lake Mburo, we asked Chris and Katie (the lodge owners) for suggestions.  They recommended that we follow the Research Track in search of game and that a drive up to the Kazuma Hill lookout was a great place for 360 degree views of the surrounding area.  We weren’t disappointed by their suggestions.  The research track was densely populated by game and birdlife and although we arrived on top of Kazuma Hill in the pouring rain, we waited out the storm and when the skies cleared we were astounded by the beauty around us.  Night drives are another popular choice and can be booked through the UWA office in the park or through the lodge.  With the increasing number of leopard being spotted in the park, I would guess that this might be an exciting activity to try.  Boat trips on Lake Mburo are run by the UWA several times a day and if you are a keen birder, you won’t pass up this opportunity to spot the African Finfoot.  Other highlights of the boat trip are hippos and crocodiles.  The lodge has a couple of bicycles for hire which can be used to explore around the lodge outside of the park boundary.  The lodge also offers nature walks. We did a couple of small walks around the lodge and enjoyed both little jaunts which gave us the chance to explore what was around us.

Mother Zebra with her young

Upon our visit to Rwakobo Rock some areas were still under construction and the lodge was still in its infancy stages.  We had an enjoyable stay and would consider Rwakobo Rock a decent option for those looking for mid range accommodation around Lake Mburo.

A few things to bring:
Evenings can get chilly on top of the rock so be sure to bring something warm with you.
A decent flashlight/torch as some of the pathways are narrow and unlit.
A pair of close toed shoes may help out on the murram pathways and other areas as things could get messy in the rain
Binoculars to enjoy the views and birdlife around the lodge

Rates & Booking Information
Chris & Katie
+256 755 211771
info@rwakoborock.com
http://www.rwakoborock.com/

Female Bushbuck