Uganda Carnivore Program

Climb aboard any safari vehicle and ask guests what they want to see most and the answer is generally unanimous.....big cats.  Lions and leopards are the most popular animals that people want to see while on safari.  Unfortunately, due to ongoing pressures of growing human populations, the populations of large carnivores, mainly lions, leopards and hyenas are decreasing as a result of habitat loss.  Thankfully, the Uganda Carnivore Program, in close collaboration with the Uganda Wildlife Authority, is working hard to minimize human wildlife conflict and is dedicated to monitoring, researching and conserving the large predators in Uganda.

The Uganda Carnivore Program bases its core activities in the northern sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park in western Uganda.  The pressures facing the carnivores of this area are not unique, but rather are typically experienced throughout Africa.  As human populations increase in the areas surrounding the park and its enclave villages, the conflict between wildlife and humans rise. The Uganda Carnivore Program (“UCP”) takes a multi-disciplinary approach to conservation.  Since the mid 1990s, they have focused on training and research as well as community-based activities that increase local participation in conservation and promote human-wildlife coexistence.  Working in conjunction with the Uganda Wildlife Authority, their research consists of monitoring carnivore ecology and health and tracking their movements near “conflict zones” where there is the potential to come in contact with people and livestock.  UCP makes recommendations to the UWA in regards to management of carnivores and also assists in the mitigation process during times of human-wildlife conflict. 

UCP also works closely with the villages surrounding the park on education and methods to reduce the conflict between the villagers and the wildlife.  Through the research and monitoring of the animals, villages can be warned when predators are in the area and given the tactics and skills to protect themselves and their livestock.  Between 2006 and 2012 the primary cause of death to large carnivores in the northern sector of Queen Elizabeth NP was human related, with poisoning in retaliation for livestock depredation being the number one cause.  However, in the past three years, there have been no recorded incidences of poisoning in the villages in which UCP works. UCP educates people on the benefits of wildlife and aids them in developing community based programs in which they can directly benefit from local tourism.  Current activities of the UCP include conservation education outreach programs in village schools which inform the youth of the village about the important role that wildlife has to play and the importance of conservation efforts for long term sustainability.

An important aspect of the Uganda Carnivore Program is educating visitors on the wildlife of the park as well as the people that live in the surrounding areas of Queen Elizabeth NP.  The best way to learn more is to participate in the lion tracking experience.  Bookings for this can be made through the Uganda Wildlife Authority.  You can contact UCP to arrange a visit to the park’s villages, where you can watch cultural performances and purchase locally made crafts.  Besides visiting Queen Elizabeth NP and participating in the activities offered, how can you help protect the large carnivores?  The UCP operates on limited funds and welcomes support for their initiatives.  This can be done in several ways, either by making a donation or by sponsoring certain aspects of their activities.  To find out more and how you can be of help, visit the Uganda Carnivore website to learn more about their activities and contact them directly. 

It’s hard to imagine going on safari and not having the opportunity to see large carnivores.  As human beings, we all play an important role in the conservation efforts needed to combat the pressure that growing populations are placing on wildlife.  We all need to do our part and play an active role in protecting them; our wildlife and large carnivores are depending on us!

For more information
http://www.uganda-carnivores.org
https://www.facebook.com/uganda.carnivores
contact@uganda-carnivores.org

Night Drive - Lake Mburo NP

It was the night of the supermoon and we had scheduled a night drive in Lake Mburo National Park.  Unknowingly, we were in for a super night!

We picked up our Uganda Wildlife Authority guide Lawrence just before sunset.  He had a large spotlight with him which wired directly to our car battery.  Lawrence decided to perch himself on the roof of the Land Rover so that he had a good vantage point.  We were all set and started driving towards the Research Track.  By this time the sun had set and darkness was setting in.  From inside the Land Rover we watched as Lawrence moved the spotlight quickly from left to right looking for animals.  It was Kevin that heard Lawrence say "leopard, stop!"  I was driving.  I quickly pressed on the brakes and started looking around "where?"  A male leopard was in front of us and just off of the road to the right.  We turned off the engine and watched as he walked through the grass towards a thicket.  For over 30 minutes we watched the leopard as he slowly made his way from thicket to thicket, pausing at each one to look around and survey his surroundings.  Eventually he walked off into the darkness leaving us with adrenaline pumped bodies and big grins.  Fantastic!!  This sighting was enough for me, I was so happy to have had such a good spotting of a leopard that I was prepared to head back to Mihingo lodge where we were staying and revel in our night drive experience.

As we drove back, we saw buffalo, zebras, a white tailed mongoose and a genet cat. We were not far from the  lodge when Lawrence asked us to turn onto a small track to look for hyena as he knew of the general location they hang around at night.  Close to the road, we saw a figure dart away from an anthill and into the thick bushes nearby.  We shone our lights and could see two eyes staring back at us.  As we crept the vehicle closer to the bush, we realized it was a leopard!!  Another one!  How exciting was this?!  Another male, this time never leaving the protection and cover of the bush.  We admired his beauty, his large golden eyes resembling giant glass marbles, his long whiskers and rosette patterned coat.  After about 30 minutes we decided to leave him and let him get back to his leopard business.  As we drove back to Mihingo, we giggled at our fortune of seeing two separate leopards on one night drive.

If you are visiting Lake Mburo National Park, I can highly recommend this exciting activity. Although there is no guarantee of seeing leopard, a guided night drive gives you the chance to experience the animals in their habitat at night as well as giving you an opportunity to spot nocturnal species.  For us, it was a super night!

Luxury in Harmony with Nature - Kyambura Gorge Lodge

Perched on the hillside above Kyambura Gorge is a new gem in Uganda.  Volcanoes Kyambura Gorge Lodge offers astounding views over the Kyambura gorge, the plains of the Albertine Rift Valley, Queen Elizabeth National Park and the Rwenzori Mountains as the backdrop.  Whether you are going to Queen Elizabeth Park for a safari or to get away from the city, the lodge offers a quiet comfortable retreat abundant with natural beauty.

Main Lodge Building

We set off from Kampala early on a wet Saturday morning headed for Kyambura Gorge Lodge.  We drove via Masaka and Mbarara, although road construction was underway we experienced only short delays and a fantastic new road.  It didn’t stay cold and damp for long and by the time that we reached the equator, we were peeling off our sweaters.  The equator is always an enjoyable stop no matter how many times you have crossed over.  Uganda being one of less than 13 countries in the world that the equator passes through makes it an experience not to be missed.  As we drive past Lake Mburo National Park,

we see several zebra grazing near the road as well as many crested cranes.  The scenery through Bushyenyi is beautiful, the road meanders back and forth through tea plantations and more banana trees than you can imagine.  Soon we reach the top of the escarpment and stop at a viewpoint for a breathtaking view over the Albertine Rift Valley.  As we descend into the valley we turn off the main road and after a short distance arrive at our destination.

We are welcomed to Kyambura Gorge Lodge with big smiles and handshakes from a few of the people who we will see and interact with throughout our stay.  As our bags are unloaded we are drawn into the reception area and our eyes take in the creative African décor.  A woman offers us fresh juice and we are invited outside onto a large platform with views across the
plains.  As we marvel at the view we are given an introduction to the lodge, its facilities and history.   This contemporary eco-lodge is built on what was originally a coffee plantation.  Several buildings were carefully restored while others were newly constructed in keeping with the same style and feel as those restored.

The reception area gives us a small taste of what awaits us but now we are eager to see more.  We are led down a stone pathway that winds through the natural bush to our accommodation, an elevated wooden banda.  Each banda has its own unique name; we stayed in Emiti which means “tree”.  It is aptly named as it is built next to a very large old fig tree.  Just a few steps down off the main pathway we enter our banda onto a large covered area with a porch swing facing the views.  We step inside though a large sliding

Emiti

door.  Each banda embraces a different color theme and Emiti is yellow with splashes of it in various forms throughout the completely wooden room.  Inside there is a sitting area, a large built in window seat, 2 generous sized single beds with mosquitoes nets and a set of double doors that lead to a partially covered porch with a couple of appropriately colored chairs.  Through another wooden sliding door is a walk in closet with a built in wooden bench to sit on or store your bags on with a row of pegs and hangers above for clothes.  Inside the bench is a digital safe for keeping your valuables.  The closet is the bridge between the sleeping area and the bathroom. Everything about the bathroom is pure luxury. There is lots of space in between the double sinks, toilet, shower and another large built in window seat.  There is plenty of hot water for both of us to have showers at night and in the morning and the water pressure is excellent. Overall, the banda is spacious and filled with natural light.  It is obvious that a lot of thought has been put into the design unlike any place we’ve seen before.  Its luxury and comfort in harmony with nature.

Dining Room

The main lodge building was the original coffee store and processing plant and has been restored to a spacious oasis.  The large open space is divided into separate areas with unique room dividers which create different areas without losing the feeling of openness.  There are plenty of different chairs, sofa’s and seats to choose from, there is something for everyone.  If sitting inside isn’t for you, there is a large covered verandah. At the end of the day, we convene with our friends in the dining area of the main lodge. The large dining table is surrounding by an eclectic variety of dining chairs.  Around the table we talk about the day, discuss in length what we should do the next day, share stories of past safaris, laugh, cherish the joys of being in good company and enjoy a three course meal.  We are offered choices for the starter and the main course including vegetarian options.   My husband and I selected different options so that we could try everything.  We weren’t disappointed with any of our choices; the food was plentiful and delicious.  My pork chop was one of the best I’ve ever had and the meat was falling off the bone, served with creamy mashed potatoes and perfectly crunchy beans and carrots.  My husband’s coq au vin was tender and full of flavor served with roast potatoes and vegetables.  A very sticky rich toffee pudding was the final course served.  After a hot cup of tea we retired to our banda to fall asleep to the sound of the Kyambura River rushing below in the gorge.

The day starts before the crack of dawn with a knock on the door and a tray of hot coffee and fresh orange cake.  We relish in the warmth of the coffee before setting out into the cool crisp misty morning.  Before leaving on our morning drive we sit down to a cooked breakfast made to order served with fresh juice and toast while watching the darkness turn into daylight.  After a great breakfast we drive into the Queen Elizabeth National Park.   We’re not disappointed for the early start as we lay eyes on a lioness and

shortly thereafter a hyena.  After a successful and beautiful drive in Queen Elizabeth enjoying the wildlife and the African landscape we return to the lodge.  This gives us some time to relax on the verandah of the main lodge with a cold drink and see what we can find looking through the large spotting scope.  It’s not long before the staff beckons us to a set table to enjoy a light two course lunch of salad and vegetable couscous.  In the afternoon we take the boat trip on the Kazinga Channel and are treated with seeing a leopard, elephants, buffalo, hippo, crocodiles and numerous species of birds.  The day ends on a high since after nine years and dozens of game drives this is our first opportunity to see leopard.  With the sun starting to lower in the sky, we make it back to the lodge in time to see a beautiful sunset. The mood around the dining table tonight is exuberant.  Over a glass of wine and more delicious food we recall the highlights of the day.  We opted for game viewing in the park during our stay, however other activities nearby include trekking Chimpanzee’s, bird watching, walking and exploring the surrounding communities.

The next morning we are again woken with a knock and a tray of coffee and cake, only this time we are getting ready for a trip back to Kampala.  We feel like we have to tear ourselves away.  We don’t want to leave the comfort and quiet of this stunning lodge.  The hospitality that we have experienced over the last couple of days is second to none and with a heavy heart we climb into the car.  As we look out the window we see the entire staff of Kyambura Gorge Lodge including the kitchen staff smiling, waving and wishing us a safe journey.  As we drive away we hear lot’s of voices chiming “see you next time”.  It is without doubt they will be seeing us again!

At present there are four banda’s with a further four under construction and due to open in 2012.  When we visited the pool, changing rooms and massage room was still under construction but nearing completion and scheduled to open soon.

Booking Information
salesug@volcanoessafaris.com
+256 414 346464

Originally published in The Eye Magazine December-January 2012

Seeing Spots

Under normal circumstances if you start seeing spots you may worry that you need to seek medical advice about your visual impairment.  This past weekend, Kevin and I both saw spots but it was something we had waited 9 years for.  Through the prickly limbs of a candelabra cactus tree we could see pale yellow fur elegantly decorated with black spots in-filled with a rich golden hue.  Leopard!

The water in the Kazinga Channel gently pushed our small boat back and forth as those aboard desperately tried not to lose sight of this amazing animal.  In response to our presence which was obviously annoying the resting creature, it peered out of the branches to see what the source of the noise was.  I was looking through binoculars and Kevin the lens of a camera, as it raised it's head and it's large piercing eyes seemed to stare right into our souls.  Magnificent.

We could see movement in the tree and after what appeared to be a big stretch, it descended the tree and instantly disappeared in the bush.  We continued up the channel viewing hippo's, cape buffaloes and numerous species of birds but they all paled in comparison to what we had just experienced.  We were exuberant about finally seeing a leopard.  On our return down the Kazinga channel we saw this leopard again, this time sitting in a clearing.  As we slowed to get a better look, it got up and walked like model down a catwalk all the while flicking it's tail with the playfulness of a house cat before once again slipping away into the dense bush.

I love that a leopard never changes it's spots, they're exquisite.