Kidepo Valley National Park

The Kidepo Valley National Park attracts the attention and curiosity of many.  This remote park in the Karamoja region of northeast Uganda offers outstanding views and gives you a true wilderness feel.  It is Uganda's least explored park but is quickly gaining popularity.  CNN recently named it among the top 10 parks in Africa for its spectacular landscape and its large herd of buffalo.  For those who embark on a Kidepo safari, which can be done by either road or air, you will not regret your decision.  The masses are absent from this park and the all too familiar scene of dozens of cars surrounding an animal certainly don't occur in Kidepo.  In December we made the journey to KVNP for our third time.  As we descended the mountain pass into the Kidepo Valley we instantly remembered why we love this place so much.  The wild remote feel is just too much to keep us away, this is the real Africa, the Africa that seeps deep into your heart!

Looking out over the savannah of the Narus Valley

Kidepo in the local Karamajong language means "to pick".  The valley got its name from the numerous people that came to pick up the fallen fruit from the Borassa Palms for making Palm Beer.  During our time in Kidepo, we stayed at the N'ga Moru Wilderness Camp which is situated just outside of the park and is approximately 4 kilometers from the Katarum park gate.  The camp is a relaxed place with great views of the Narus Valley and surrounding mountains.

WHAT TO EXPECT AND WHAT TO DO IN KIDEPO:

GAME DRIVES
The Kidepo Valley is not teeming with plains animals so don't go expecting to see large herds of antelope like so many other parks in Uganda.  What you can expect is pretty much everything in between including a few species found nowhere else in Uganda, the greater and lesser kudu, eland and cheetah. Other species found in Kidepo are lion, leopard, spotted hyena, black-backed jackal, side-striped jackal, elephant, Burchell’s zebra, bushpig, warthog, Rothschild’s giraffe, Cape buffalo, bushbuck, bushduiker, Defassa waterbuck, Bohor reedbuck, Jackson’s hartebeest and oribi to mention a few of the 77 mammal species in the park.  We spent hours driving around and exploring the many bush tracks, besides spotting plenty of amazing animals we encountered the large herd of Cape buffalo that Kidepo is renowned for, all while enjoying spectacular views and scenery.  Kidepo is abound with stunning views and vistas and sometimes you just need to stop driving, find a scenic spot (not hard) sit there for awhile and enjoy it!  You may also be amazed at what starts to come to life around you.

BIRDING

Kidepo boasts over 475 species of birds, making it the second top national park in Uganda for birding.  The best place to begin is around the Uganda Wildlife Authority bandas at Apoka where you can arrange for a guide/ranger who will accompany you in the park and help to spot and identify many different species.  Although we didn't do a dedicated bird safari, we were happy to see many species that we had never seen in the wild before and gain ourselves a few "ticks" for the bird book.

Abyssinian Roller

• 
  

  Common Ostrich
• Secretary Bird
• Abyssinian Roller
• Rufous-crowned Roller
• White Crested Helmet Shrike
• Northern White-crowned Shrike
• Knob Billed Duck
• White Faced Whistling Duck
• Ruppells Griffon Vulture
• Clapperton's Francolin
• Spotted Redshank
• Speckled Pigeon
• Eurasian Hoopoe
• Jackson's Hornbill
• Hemprich's Hornbill
• Nubian Woodpecker
• Silverbird
• Fan Tailed Raven
• Superb Starling

THE KIDEPO RIVER
A visit to the Kidepo River, a seasonal river near the South Sudan border is well worth it.  A UWA ranger will accompany you on the journey as there is little or no mobile phone network in that area.  There isn't a lot of game in this section of the park but it's a nice easy drive. We did manage to see ostrich, zebra, secretary birds, jackson’s hartebeest and oribi. The area is also home to cheetah which managed to elude us. This is also a great opportunity for spotting various bird species that you are unlikely to see in other parts of Kidepo.  Our ranger told us that water flows in the river about three times per year during flash floods and generally flows for only five hours. What a sight that would be.

Sitting in the Kidepo River

KANANGOROK HOTSPRINGS
A little further north from the Kidepo River, approximately 11 km from the South Sudan border is a hot spring.  Now to be perfectly honest, the hot spring is nothing more than a couple pools of water on the ground.  You can get up close and dip your hand in to feel the temperature of the water however after a quick look around you're likely to be back in your vehicle.  Despite the anticlimactic nature of the hot springs themselves, we did see a number of birds on the drive between the Kidepo River and the spring, so it is worth checking out.

Kanangorok Hot Springs

CAMPING
Kidepo has three designated camping sites.  There is a campsite at the UWA ranger post in Apoka while the other two are remotely based within the park and require you to be accompanied by a ranger which can be organized from the ranger post in Apoka.  The remote sites are both perched atop a hill with rocky outcrops and have incredible views across the valley. The sites are equipped and supplied with firewood, a couple of open thatched rondovals that provide shade and shelter, water and long drop toilets. I would have to rank these two campsites among the top in Uganda.  Each provides superb 360 degrees views of the Narus Valley.  If you really want to understand and appreciate why Kidepo has been named one of Africa's top 10 parks, take some time to visit these sites.  Even if you don't intend to camp they make a great spot for a lunch stop or sundowners.

Taking some time to enjoy the view from one of the remote campsites

If you are planning a visit to Kidepo Valley National Park, a detailed map of the park can be found here: Kidepo Valley NP Map

Young lioness

Camping in Uganda

Camping: the act of leaving civilization to spend time living in the outdoors and sleeping in a tent.  Some people camp as an affordable accommodation option and others have a sheer passion for it.  I fall into the latter category and have found that Uganda has a lot to offer and best of all, the opportunities to camp extend year round because of the climate.  If you’re new to Uganda or new to camping you may not be sure where to get started.  Hopefully this will give you a few ideas on where to go so that you can start enjoying Uganda's great outdoors.

Cooking over a campfire

Where to Camp

Unknown to many, there are numerous campgrounds all over the country catering to all levels of adventure.  Some are private campsites and others operated by the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) within the wildlife reserves and national parks.  The campsites vary in facilities and amenities so it’s best inquire about what you can expect before you go so that you can pack accordingly.  Over the years I have developed a few favorite spots to camp.  By no means have I visited every campsite in Uganda so if I haven’t mentioned here, please don’t discount it.  My intention in mentioning the following places is to give other interested campers some ideas on places to go.

The Haven
Located close to Jinja, the Haven is an easy getaway from Kampala.  It offers stunning views of the Nile and a great facility.  The benefits of camping here is the proximity to Kampala and the amenities making for an easy weekend getaway.  The large grassy campsite sprawls around an outdoor camp kitchen with running water.  Nearby is a large toilet and shower block with solar hot water.  Meals and cold drinks are available inside the lodge and a campfire is lit in the evenings to sit around for the full camping experience.  For those that want to camp but don’t have a tent ask them about their “lazy camping”, they’ll provide you a tent with a bed inside and all your meals.

Mist on The Nile in the early morning
View from The Haven

Ishasha River Campsite

Located in the southern sector of Queen Elizabeth NP, the UWA’s Ishasha River Camp is a really beautiful place to camp.  Large trees provide plenty of shade on the banks of the Ishasha River.  The only thing separating you from the Democratic Republic of Congo is a narrow muddy river full of hippos.  When you sit in your camp, hippos snort and perform just metres away, you can’t get much closer to wildlife than that.  The amenities are fairly basic, a pit latrine and a shower fed with buckets of water from the river.  Firewood is provided by the rangers who are never far away and can help you with any needs you may have.  Near the Ishasha headquarters (a few minute drive from the campsite) is a canteen selling drinks and very basic meals.  Game drive highlights nearby include the parks famous tree climbing lions and the Lake Edward Flats where you’ll find lots of birds including the shoebill as well as buffalo and elephants.  If you are fascinated by insects, the Ishasha River camp is the place to be.  Interesting and unique creatures will keep you entertained for hours.

Ishasha River Campsite

Mweya Peninsula Campsite

Located in the northern sector of Queen Elizabeth NP, the UWA has a campsite on the tip of the Mweya Peninsula.  It is a large, open (meaning little shade) campsite that is very active with wildlife.  For those that want to sit in once place and enjoy the camping experience, you won’t be disappointed with the wildlife that passes through this site.  Flushing toilets, cold water showers, running water and firewood are all provided which make this campsite very easy and comfortable to spend several days at.  A few minutes drive away is a canteen which serves the Mweya hostel and has plenty of choice for meals and cold drinks.  Activities nearby include game drives, boat trips on the Kazinga Channel and the scenic Explosion Crater drive.

Camping in Mweya with the Kazinga Channel in the background

Murchison River Lodge

Although I have never camped here, I have seen the site and I think this campsite deserves mention simply because of the facilities.  The campsite is a large flat area with plenty of shade, a couple of camp kitchens, running water and a very spacious shower and toilet block.  Since the campsite is part of a lodge, meals and drinks, are available close by.  MRL is located just outside of the park with the gate a 5 minute drive away.  The site is very private and really gives a great wilderness feel without having to sacrifice amenities.  MRL also offers “lazy camping” so for those that want to camp but don’t have the equipment or don’t feel like packing it all in the car, they’ve got you covered. 

Murchison River Lodge campsite

Delta (MFNP)

The Uganda Wildlife Authority offers bush camping inside Murchison Falls NP on the Nile Delta.  The location is stunning but this is as the name suggests, “bush camping”.  There are no designated spots and no facilities.  You need to bring everything with you including all the water you need and a shovel for a bush toilet so that you can “drop and cover”.  The price is rather high for camping but the experience is worth it and includes a UWA ranger that accompanies you for safety from wild animals.  The sun sets over the delta are incredible and are followed by a star filled sky and plenty of animal noises.  Camping at the delta is really getting close to nature as you are right in the middle of a game park.  Anything can happen which makes it such an exciting and worthwhile experience.  The biggest advantage to camping here is that you are on the delta for those early morning game drives.  For the real adventurers, this camping experience is one to consider.

Sunset on the Delta in Murchison Falls National Park

What to Bring

Beside your camping essentials like your tent, cooking equipment etc. There are some things that you shouldn’t leave home without.  Most importantly you need to bring your sense of adventure!  You are living in nature so things like storms happen, solar hot water isn’t 100% reliable but if you’re flexible you’ll make the best of it.  Secondly bring what you think will make you comfortable during your trip.  If you're not comfortable, you will not be a happy camper.  A few essentials that I would recommend bringing are toilet paper, plenty of drinking and potable water, mosquito repellent and binoculars.

Don’t forget common sense.  Camping in a national park can be a very exciting experience, but don’t think for a second that designated camping sites are safe to go wandering around freely.  Wild animals can’t read the sign that demarcates the campsite and are likely to wander through both day and night which is what makes these spots so special.  Make sure you look around constantly and be aware of what's around you.  At night make sure you have a sufficient flashlight and extra batteries so that you can check what’s around you before moving very far from the vehicle which I really wouldn’t recommend doing unless you’re on your way to the toilet.  Having a campfire at night helps let the animals know that you are there and will likely curb their curiosity and keep away from you. 

Lastly, be a respectful camper.  There is nothing worse than arriving at a campsite to find garbage or a mess left behind by previous campers.  Make use of garbage bins that are provided and if you can’t find one, pack out your garbage.  Take only pictures and leave only footprints is the best motto to live by.  When camping near other people, be respectful of their space and control your noise levels.  It will be much appreciated and respected by others as no one enjoys rude people.

So start dusting off your tent, get your equipment and supplies together, pack the car and get out and have some fun!

A chameleon.  Is he thinking about doing the dishes?

Warthogs wandering around in the Mweya Peninsula campsite

Bujagali Memories

In late 2011 the headwaters of the Nile River were flooded in preparation for the launch of the Bugagali Dam.  The area has become the reservoir for the new dam which began operation in February 2012.  This past weekend we had our first opportunity to see the headwater region since the flooding.  The water has risen several metres taking with it a number of rapids that used to be a part of The Nile including the famous grade 5 rapids Bujagali Falls.  At the moment things look slightly awkward as the rising water has engulfed the area.  Trees that once grew from the islands are now merely tree tops slowly succumbing to their new environment.  The immense sound of the water crashing can no longer be heard making the area very peaceful.  The reservoir now known as Lake Bujagali has the potential to become a hotspot for birding and sport fishing.  Looking down the river the Bujagali Dam can be seen in the background along with transmission towers and cables that disappear into the horizon to help supply the nation with much needed electricity.  Although Bujagali Falls no longer exists we recalled the good times we've had and will cherish for years to come.

RAFTING Our first encounter with the mighty Bujagali Falls was in 2002 on a raft.  It was the first time either of us had been rafting and we obviously weren't meant to stay in that raft for long!  As we manoeuvred through Bujagali our raft bounced around before being lifted high into the air and overturning, leaving us swimming through the rapids looking for the fastest way to get back into the raft.
CAMPING NEXT TO BUJAGALI At the time we didn't realize that camping next to Bujagali Falls and falling asleep to the roar of the cascading water would be a limited time offer.  This was the first place that we ever camped in Uganda so obviously the place holds special memories.  We will never forget waking up to the calls of the African Fish Eagle, the cool crisp air and the mist over the river.
THE ENTERTAINMENT Lastly, how can we forget those daredevils that would delight tourists by "rafting" the falls clutching onto the handle of a 20 litre plastic jerry can.  Anxious spectators wondering if this was safe would contribute money and then watch as the skill full swimmers would throw themselves to the mercy of the river.  Jumping into the water and then plunging over the falls, disappearing underwater and then popping up slightly downstream.  Proud of their feat the daredevils would come running back with  toothless grins, I suppose there was the odd encounter with a rock, but they never bothered to mention that and were eager to do it again. That wasn't the only entertainment at Bujagali Falls.  Every morning people from the surrounding villages would come in droves to watch kayakers and rafts full of people traverse through the feisty water erupting in cheers when they were successful and watching with slight terror when rafts would flip. For many, this appeared to be a highlight of their day. Bujagail Falls, thanks for the memories!! Please note that although you can no longer raft Bujagali Falls, the opportunity to experience Grade 5 rafting on The Nile is still possible below the Bujagali Dam.  We're only wondering if this means we have to pluck up the courage to raft The Nile again.

Pelican Point

You may wonder where our background picture was taken and the story behind it.  In 2008 on a camping trip to Queen Elizabeth National Park, we were exploring nature reserves near the park and came across Pelican Point. Kevin and I were both so moved by this place as it is truly one of the most beautiful places we have ever seen.  The savannah grasslands and the lush green forest collide with Lake Edward in the background.  Pelican Point is an unforgettable place and the epitome of why we love to travel and explore.

For the Love of It!

Out of a love for Africa, exploring, camping, photography, writing and our 1991 Landrover Discovery, this online diary is born.  Kevin a Volkswagen fanatic through his teens and twenties had always dreamed of owning a Landrover, so when we relocated to Uganda it seemed like the opportune moment to seize a dream! We have covered thousands of miles on Ugandan roads and have had some unforgettable experiences, but we both know that there is plenty more out there, so we're intent on experiencing more and discovering as much as we can.  Join us on our adventures!