Ishasha Wilderness Camp - A New Look

Since 2005 the Ishasha Wilderness Camp has held a reputation as an exclusive tented camp in a remote setting offering comfort, friendly service and first-rate food.  Over the last six months the camp has transformed itself with an impressive new look that pampers the safari soul.

The camp is set on the banks of the Ntungwe River in the southern Ishasha sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park.  We leave our safari vehicle in the parking lot and follow a footpath under the cool shade of large trees, cross a wooden bridge and enter a large open air lounge and dining area.  The thatch roof structure is designed with three open sides, providing a full view out over the Ntungwe River and the surrounding area.  Large inviting sofas surround rustic tree trunk coffee tables and hanging from the ceiling at various heights are gourds of all different shapes and sizes that illuminate the area during the evening.  The dining area consists of one large slab table and a number of smaller tables catering for both large groups and intimate dining.  There is a fully stocked bar offering spirits, cold beer, sodas, coffee and tea all available throughout the day. A central charging station for guests is provided with universal adapters for your electronics.

A few steps away and down from the main dining/lounge area there is a terrace beside the river’s edge where large umbrellas provide shade during the day.  The terrace is a great place to sit to watch the elephants come down to the river for a drink and sometimes you’ll be lucky to see them cooling off and playing in the river.  This section of river is also home to a resident hippo “Henry” who likes to make his appearances when you least expect them, popping up grunting and puffing, leaving you scanning the river waiting for his next performance.

Along the river’s edge are 10 large tented rooms.  They have been constructed with rustic eucalyptus poles to provide a rigid structure and finished with canvas walls and netting which allows for plenty of light and fresh air. Outside the front of the tent there’s a covered area with two comfortable chairs and a table providing a private place to relax and enjoy the view.  Unlike most conventional tents, there is no zipper to deal with as you enter through a full sized door. Inside the décor displays African simplicity at its best and does not detract from the views and the feeling of being in the wilderness.  The king size bed is the center piece with a mosquito net suspended above.  There are side tables with lamps either side of the bed and two carved chests at the foot.  A writing table sits off to one side and has a beautiful view of the river.  The tent ceiling is draped with white cotton providing a lavish colonial feel.   There are full length curtains on all sides that can be drawn for complete privacy. The tents come equipped with flashlights and a safe.

The ensuite bathroom is as generous with space as the bedroom. There is a sink area, a shower with a large rain shower head a toilet and plenty of counter space to spread out your personal belongings. Cold water is always available and hot bush showers
are provided

upon request and take 10 minutes or less to arrive.

As the sun starts to slip away for the day we make our way to the riverside terrace to enjoy a sundowner while sitting around the fire.  Listening to the fire crackle and snap, the gentle babble of the Ntungwe River and the occasional noise from Henry, we reminisce about our adventures.  In the middle of a conversation the sound of drums resonates through the camp, this is the call to dinner.  We make our way to our table for two set outside on the grass.  We sit down to dinner under a ceiling of stars.  The waiter arrives at our table to introduce us to the night’s menu.  Dinner is a four course meal starting with bajias, followed by cumin and pumpkin soup.  The main course is a pork chop drizzled with hollandaise sauce served with potatoes and a medley of vegetables.  Just when we thought we couldn’t eat another morsel of food, a date pudding was put before us.  The food was delicious.  After dinner we are drawn back to the fire for a nightcap before retiring to our tents for the night.

Self admitted I am not a morning person; however the arranged wakeup call was so nice.  A voice in the darkness broke our sleep with a friendly “good morning” from one of the staff who left a tray of hot coffee and biscuits on the table outside.  After sipping on the coffee and slowly waking up, we left the camp for a game drive.

Ishasha is renowned for its most famous residents the tree climbing lions, however there is much more to Ishasha than the lions.  A short drive from camp is a Ugandan Kob breeding ground.  We stop and scan the area and spotted a hyena skulking through the grass creating a stir amongst the Kob.  What a treat! Ishasha is made up of riverine forests and grasslands scattered with Acacia and Fig trees and is home to the only Topi found in QENP as well as many other savannah animals. The Ishasha River to the west forms the border of the Democratic Republic of Congo and is where you will find hippos.   There was no shortage of game on our morning drive and our hunger for breakfast was calling us back to the camp.  We were welcomed back and served a fully cooked breakfast to order along with juice, tea, coffee, fruit and cereal.  The homemade bread made for great toast with various spreads available.

After breakfast we sat under the shade of an umbrella next to the river on the lower terrace and watched the river flow by on its way to Lake Edward.  While relaxing we were alerted by one of the staff that the elephants had arrived.  To our joy, across the river was a herd of elephants drinking.  This made for quite an exciting spectacle.  After several hours of enjoying the serenity, it was lunchtime.  We were served a plate of cold meats accompanied by a potato, chickpea and olive salad with freshly baked bread rolls.  Once again the food doesn’t disappoint and to top it off we even squeezed in a chocolate brownie for dessert.

We decide to go for a late afternoon drive to the Lake Edward Flats, an area renowned for numerous species of birds including the shoebill.  It is not a long drive to reach this wide open space with wetlands on the far side and Lake Edward beyond.  There are different species of birds everywhere along with the occasional warthog and a large herd of buffalo. Several buffalo were enjoying the wallows of mud that are spread out across the flats and surprisingly are not eager to move as we approach, giving us a great opportunity for viewing and photographing them.  The beauty of this place really started to come through as the sun started to set in the sky casting beautiful light across the flats.  The area was so magical it was with great reluctance that we had to leave arriving back to camp just before dark.  Again we enjoyed a great evening of fire, conversation, good food and service on the Ntungwe River.  If you do visit this wonderful camp take time to look for Henry the hippo and visit the beautiful Lake Edward Flats and you never know you may even bump in to a leopard!

Given the remoteness of the Isahasa Wilderness Camp they are fully equipped with solar power providing lighting throughout the camp, along the walkways and within the tents.  The lodge also implements a number of other eco practices besides lighting such as new low water volume flushing toilets and ceramic refillable soap, shampoo and conditioner containers in the bathrooms. The camp is very conscious of their environment and does their best to make as little impact on it as possible.

Upon signing the guest book I came across a visitors comment that I felt summed up the Ishasha Wilderness Camp perfectly “This is one of the best real Africa camps in Uganda”.

Let it be known that on our way out of the Ishasha sector we drove the southern circuit in search of tree climbing lions and were delighted to find two lionesses with swollen bellies full of food lounging in a giant fig tree.  What an end to a brilliant stay at Ishasha Wilderness Camp!

Booking Information 
Exclusive Camps and Lodges (G&C Tours Ltd)
reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
Ph: +256 414 321 479
Mobile: +256 772 721 155
www.ugandaexclusivecamps.com

Luxury in Harmony with Nature - Kyambura Gorge Lodge

Perched on the hillside above Kyambura Gorge is a new gem in Uganda.  Volcanoes Kyambura Gorge Lodge offers astounding views over the Kyambura gorge, the plains of the Albertine Rift Valley, Queen Elizabeth National Park and the Rwenzori Mountains as the backdrop.  Whether you are going to Queen Elizabeth Park for a safari or to get away from the city, the lodge offers a quiet comfortable retreat abundant with natural beauty.

Main Lodge Building

We set off from Kampala early on a wet Saturday morning headed for Kyambura Gorge Lodge.  We drove via Masaka and Mbarara, although road construction was underway we experienced only short delays and a fantastic new road.  It didn’t stay cold and damp for long and by the time that we reached the equator, we were peeling off our sweaters.  The equator is always an enjoyable stop no matter how many times you have crossed over.  Uganda being one of less than 13 countries in the world that the equator passes through makes it an experience not to be missed.  As we drive past Lake Mburo National Park,

we see several zebra grazing near the road as well as many crested cranes.  The scenery through Bushyenyi is beautiful, the road meanders back and forth through tea plantations and more banana trees than you can imagine.  Soon we reach the top of the escarpment and stop at a viewpoint for a breathtaking view over the Albertine Rift Valley.  As we descend into the valley we turn off the main road and after a short distance arrive at our destination.

We are welcomed to Kyambura Gorge Lodge with big smiles and handshakes from a few of the people who we will see and interact with throughout our stay.  As our bags are unloaded we are drawn into the reception area and our eyes take in the creative African décor.  A woman offers us fresh juice and we are invited outside onto a large platform with views across the
plains.  As we marvel at the view we are given an introduction to the lodge, its facilities and history.   This contemporary eco-lodge is built on what was originally a coffee plantation.  Several buildings were carefully restored while others were newly constructed in keeping with the same style and feel as those restored.

The reception area gives us a small taste of what awaits us but now we are eager to see more.  We are led down a stone pathway that winds through the natural bush to our accommodation, an elevated wooden banda.  Each banda has its own unique name; we stayed in Emiti which means “tree”.  It is aptly named as it is built next to a very large old fig tree.  Just a few steps down off the main pathway we enter our banda onto a large covered area with a porch swing facing the views.  We step inside though a large sliding

Emiti

door.  Each banda embraces a different color theme and Emiti is yellow with splashes of it in various forms throughout the completely wooden room.  Inside there is a sitting area, a large built in window seat, 2 generous sized single beds with mosquitoes nets and a set of double doors that lead to a partially covered porch with a couple of appropriately colored chairs.  Through another wooden sliding door is a walk in closet with a built in wooden bench to sit on or store your bags on with a row of pegs and hangers above for clothes.  Inside the bench is a digital safe for keeping your valuables.  The closet is the bridge between the sleeping area and the bathroom. Everything about the bathroom is pure luxury. There is lots of space in between the double sinks, toilet, shower and another large built in window seat.  There is plenty of hot water for both of us to have showers at night and in the morning and the water pressure is excellent. Overall, the banda is spacious and filled with natural light.  It is obvious that a lot of thought has been put into the design unlike any place we’ve seen before.  Its luxury and comfort in harmony with nature.

Dining Room

The main lodge building was the original coffee store and processing plant and has been restored to a spacious oasis.  The large open space is divided into separate areas with unique room dividers which create different areas without losing the feeling of openness.  There are plenty of different chairs, sofa’s and seats to choose from, there is something for everyone.  If sitting inside isn’t for you, there is a large covered verandah. At the end of the day, we convene with our friends in the dining area of the main lodge. The large dining table is surrounding by an eclectic variety of dining chairs.  Around the table we talk about the day, discuss in length what we should do the next day, share stories of past safaris, laugh, cherish the joys of being in good company and enjoy a three course meal.  We are offered choices for the starter and the main course including vegetarian options.   My husband and I selected different options so that we could try everything.  We weren’t disappointed with any of our choices; the food was plentiful and delicious.  My pork chop was one of the best I’ve ever had and the meat was falling off the bone, served with creamy mashed potatoes and perfectly crunchy beans and carrots.  My husband’s coq au vin was tender and full of flavor served with roast potatoes and vegetables.  A very sticky rich toffee pudding was the final course served.  After a hot cup of tea we retired to our banda to fall asleep to the sound of the Kyambura River rushing below in the gorge.

The day starts before the crack of dawn with a knock on the door and a tray of hot coffee and fresh orange cake.  We relish in the warmth of the coffee before setting out into the cool crisp misty morning.  Before leaving on our morning drive we sit down to a cooked breakfast made to order served with fresh juice and toast while watching the darkness turn into daylight.  After a great breakfast we drive into the Queen Elizabeth National Park.   We’re not disappointed for the early start as we lay eyes on a lioness and

shortly thereafter a hyena.  After a successful and beautiful drive in Queen Elizabeth enjoying the wildlife and the African landscape we return to the lodge.  This gives us some time to relax on the verandah of the main lodge with a cold drink and see what we can find looking through the large spotting scope.  It’s not long before the staff beckons us to a set table to enjoy a light two course lunch of salad and vegetable couscous.  In the afternoon we take the boat trip on the Kazinga Channel and are treated with seeing a leopard, elephants, buffalo, hippo, crocodiles and numerous species of birds.  The day ends on a high since after nine years and dozens of game drives this is our first opportunity to see leopard.  With the sun starting to lower in the sky, we make it back to the lodge in time to see a beautiful sunset. The mood around the dining table tonight is exuberant.  Over a glass of wine and more delicious food we recall the highlights of the day.  We opted for game viewing in the park during our stay, however other activities nearby include trekking Chimpanzee’s, bird watching, walking and exploring the surrounding communities.

The next morning we are again woken with a knock and a tray of coffee and cake, only this time we are getting ready for a trip back to Kampala.  We feel like we have to tear ourselves away.  We don’t want to leave the comfort and quiet of this stunning lodge.  The hospitality that we have experienced over the last couple of days is second to none and with a heavy heart we climb into the car.  As we look out the window we see the entire staff of Kyambura Gorge Lodge including the kitchen staff smiling, waving and wishing us a safe journey.  As we drive away we hear lot’s of voices chiming “see you next time”.  It is without doubt they will be seeing us again!

At present there are four banda’s with a further four under construction and due to open in 2012.  When we visited the pool, changing rooms and massage room was still under construction but nearing completion and scheduled to open soon.

Booking Information
salesug@volcanoessafaris.com
+256 414 346464

Originally published in The Eye Magazine December-January 2012

Playing Peek A Boo with a Hippo

One of our most memorable safari experiences and one that we talk about often happened several years ago while we were on safari in the Queen Elizabeth National Park.  After a satisfying lunch at Mweya Lodge, we decided to go out for an afternoon game drive.  Many people say that there is not a lot to see during the hot afternoon hours, but this encounter would prove those people wrong.

Just several kilometres away from the lodge along the channel track, we rounded a corner and next to the road was a pool of muddy water with a massive muddy body lumbering away from it.  It was a hippo.  They are amazing creatures to see out of the water so on this particular instance we decided to give the pool of water and the vehicle a bit of space, turn off the engine and see if the hippo would eventually return to his wallow.  We fully expected that it would run off and find another retreat from the blazing sun and the heat.

After about 15 minutes of keeping our voices to a whisper, we saw the hippo peek out of the bushes quite a distance from the car.  It paused for a moment to assess the situation and then retreated back into the bushes.  Again, we waited for another 15 minutes before seeing it again.  This time it was much closer than the first time and again, peeking out of the bushes, another assessment and another retreat.  We continued our waiting game and then saw it peeking out of the bushes at us, right next to the giant puddle.  After staring at our vehicle for quite some time, we were obviously seen as no threat and the hippo fully emerged from the bushes and as gently as a hippo could, got back into its puddle.

We were so amazed at the process of checking if the coast was clear and how with each inquiry, it was getting closer and closer to us.  This experience was definitely worth waiting around for, when else would we get the opportunity of playing peek-a-boo with a hippo!