Jinja Nile Resort

Jinja is well known as being the adventure capital of Uganda and is located relatively close to Kampala making it an ideal destination for weekend getaways.  Regardless of your purpose, if you are looking for a resort hotel centrally located with plenty of character then the Jinja Nile Resort is a good choice.

When we arrived at Jinja Nile Resort, we entered the secured parking area and drove up to the covered entrance and were greeted by a young man who took our bags from the car and entered the large lobby under a high cathedral ceiling.  The reception desk is situated in the middle of the lobby and is flanked by two large wooden staircases that wind their way up to a mezzanine level.  Vintage portraits of four explorers are painted high on the wall and natural light floods through a large stained glass window.  The entrance is impressive and grand.

The resort is on 30 acres of well groomed gardens facing the Nile River.  In late 2011 the river was flooded in preparation for the launch of the newly constructed Bujagali Dam so the water level has risen slightly and several of the rapids have been engulfed by water.  The view is still as spectacular as ever and looking down river you can see the new dam in the distance.   140 colonial style cottages are neatly aligned throughout the gardens.  Some offer Nile facing views while others are set back amongst the tropical gardens.  All rooms have a private balcony, a small sitting room with a bar fridge, coffee and tea facilities, a TV with a few channels, a writing desk and a double as well as a single bed with a large mosquito net.  In the rooms you’ll also find a wall fan and a closet with a digital safe. The ensuite bathroom is spacious and features a large shower.   The rooms are generous with space, clean and although the decor is slightly dated they have been well maintained and function well.

The pool with two large mosaic crocodiles on the bottom is the heart of the resort and we are drawn to the numerous chaise lounges around its deck.  Most of the chaise lounges are in the sun for those who want to soak up some rays and get your Vitamin D and a few are under pergolas covered with colourful bougainvillea providing a respite from the heat.  The crystal clear pool is inviting.  There is a smaller children’s pool attached to the main pool for the younger guests to splash around in.  A pool boy is on hand to provide towels and move chaise lounges around if needed.  A mix of pop and contemporary Ugandan music plays in the background at times a little on the loud side and several waiters are available to serve cold drinks and take your order from the poolside menu.  Before deciding on lunch we decided to take a refreshing dip in the pool and visit the swim up bar for a cold drink.  The bar is fully stocked with water, fresh juice, sodas, beer and spirits.  Cocktails are available but do take a little more time to prepare, so if you order one be prepared to wait.  

After enjoying a cold drink at the swim up bar we were ready for lunch so we started to explore our options.  The poolside menu has a range of salads, snacks, burgers, pizzas, and chicken, beef and fish dishes.  We decide to share chicken fingers as a starter, followed by main courses of chicken tikka served with naan bread and chicken in a basket with chips.  We were happy with our choices and thought that it arrived within reasonable time.   There was also an option for buffet lunch served poolside which offered a large variety of dishes.   We spent the day relaxing under the hot equatorial sun and dipped in and out of the pool periodically.  During the day the resort sells day memberships which we found created a nice atmosphere of many people around the pool.

As the sun was going down we went up to the mezzanine level for a view over the resort with the Nile in the background and the Nalubaale Dam in the distance.   After enjoying the view, we visited the main bar, a great location for sundowners.  There is seating inside at the bar or in large comfortable chairs in the adjacent lounge and TV area which was showing a football match.  We sat outside on the veranda overlooking the pool and munched on banana chips.  As we enjoyed the last moments of daylight we could see that the evening buffet was being set up outside next to the pool.  The dinner buffet had no shortage of options including soups, salads, and main course dishes of Asian, Continental and Ugandan cuisine.  An outside tandoori oven was being used to roast meat, chicken and for making naan bread which I particularly enjoyed.  The food was what you would expect from a buffet, not haute cuisine but tasty and plenty of variety to satisfy anyone.

After dinner we wandered down the path back to our cottage.  The location of the Jinja Nile Resort is peaceful and we fell asleep to a chorus of crickets and frogs.  We had a good night's sleep on what we considered to be a comfortable mattress.  In the morning we woke to a blanket of mist over the river and sunlight infiltrating the darkness.  We made ourselves a cup of coffee in our room and enjoyed it on the veranda while waking up to a beautiful view and the songs of birds.

After our coffee, we strolled over to the main restaurant where buffet breakfast was being served.  The spread included fresh juices, coffee, tea, pastries, cereal, waffles, eggs, sausages, beans, tomatoes, potatoes, pancakes and plenty more.  I sampled a few items from the buffet and placed my order with the omelette maker.  There was plenty of seating inside as well as outside; we chose the open air terrace affording us the opportunity to enjoy the view and the fresh morning air.

Jinja Nile Resort has a number of facilities within the premises including a health club with various cardio machines as well as weights.  Although we didn’t use the gym during our visit is was clean and relatively spacious with large windows facing the river.  Inside the changing rooms were showers, a steam bath, sauna and a private room reserved for massage.  Set amidst the gardens is a tennis court and an indoor squash court.  The resort facilitates various activities and given the location the Jinja Nile Resort is a great conference venue.   There are several conference halls and meeting rooms depending on individual needs.

I found the resort staff to be very friendly and efficient.  On one occasion our waiter was unsure of some of the details of our order and returned to clarify before placing the order in the kitchen.  I thought this was admirable as sometimes wait staff will not take time to seek clarification resulting in mix ups and disappointments.  The resort accommodation rates are bed and breakfast so if buffets are not your thing, you can always venture out to sample the fare offered at nearby restaurants.  On the other hand Jinja Nile Resort offers everything in one location so if you don’t want to leave the resort, everything is available at your fingertips.  The Jinja Nile Resort is not one of the latest lodges on the block but it is as its name suggests a resort.  We didn’t leave the comfort of the resort during our two day stay and found all the makings of a relaxing weekend.  We spent most of our time by the pool and taking walks through the property enjoying the scenery and gardens.

Self Catering Cottages on The Nile River

On the west bank of the Nile just outside of Jinja lays an oasis, a place where you can relax in a hammock overlooking the Nile absent from the constraints of time.  At Holland Park, time is all yours in your own private self catering cottage set in a peaceful and serene location.  A weekend spent here was the perfect escape from the madness of Kampala.

Four and a half kilometres from the brewery along the Kayunga Road, we couldn’t miss the orange sign that directed us off the main road.  We drove past several village homes and received the usual greetings you would expect in Uganda of children waving, laughing and shouting “Mzungu”.  As we arrive at the gate we are sensing the placidity that lies within. The gate is opened and we enter a large property with sprawling green lawns speckled with a diverse selection of trees and shrubs.  The accommodation at Holland Park consists of three thatch roof cottages and one large tent nestled under a thatch roof.  All of the units are self catering with fully equipped kitchens with gas stove, fridge, cookware and an outdoor BBQ with hardwood charcoal supplied.

The cottages sleep up to four people, with a queen sized bed and two twin beds in an open plan mezzanine.  Downstairs is a bathroom with solar hot water showers, a dining room, kitchen and covered veranda.  All the necessary towels and linens are supplied.  They have been finished meticulously and decorated with an eclectic mix of antique furniture from Europe alongside custom made modern furniture and finished with little touches that make the place feel like home right down to fresh flowers from the garden gracing the table.  The cottages face the river and hammocks are on hand for you to sink into and absorb the tranquility of the place.

The tent sleeps two people and is perched up on the riverbank.  Don’t let the word tent fool you, it’s a luxury safari tent furnished inside, so there is no roughing it here.  It is secluded from the cottages and gives a private bird’s eye view over the river.  Its large covered veranda is furnished with daybeds and a hammock.  Don’t be surprised if the red tailed monkeys come swinging by the tent during the day.  The fully equipped kitchen is at the rear of the tent adjacent to a private bathroom and shower.

We spent the weekend in a cottage and felt like we had drifted a million miles away.  We awoke in the morning to the call of the fish eagles and spent hours drinking coffee while treasuring the view before finally deciding to cook breakfast.  Our favourite aspect of Holland Park was the privacy and flexibility.  You can spend your day however you wish and cook when you’re ready without the worry of mealtimes.  Holland Park is set on approximately 10 acres and boasts 112 confirmed species of birds so remember to pack your binoculars.  The owners Wim and Monique who live on the premises are friendly gracious hosts and always at hand to provide assistance if needed.  The facilities are only open to guests, day visitors are not permitted so if you want to escape somewhere for the weekend and not have to see a single soul, this is the place.  The location of Holland Park allows for easy trips into Jinja which offers an array of activities as well as cafes and restaurants.  Horseback riding is a 3 minute walk away and offers trail rides in the area.  On-site, a boat trip is offered which seemed like the natural choice for us after our incredibly relaxing morning.  Wim took us out on the water in a motorboat and as we sat under the shade of its cover, we listened to him tell us about the area and point out birds, monitor lizards sunning on the rocks as well as vervet and red tailed monkeys.  We gently cruised up to the Nalubaale Dam and then down to the new Bujagali Dam enjoying all of the sights and sounds the Nile has to offer.  Apart from scenic bird watching excursions, fishing trips can also be arranged.

Holland Park is constantly evolving and plans are in place for a swimming pool in the future. If you are interested in staying but can’t be bothered to cook for yourself, a private international chef can be arranged.   Our weekend at Holland Park was not long enough; I suppose no holiday ever is.  We didn’t want to leave and missed its calming effects the moment we drove out of the gate.

Booking Information
Wim and Monique
+256 (0) 782 507 788
info@hollandparkuganda.com
http://www.hollandparkuganda.com

Lunch in a Tropical Oasis on The Nile

Some restaurants are unrivaled in terms of location.  Sitting at our table in the restaurant of Wildwaters Lodge, we conclude that this is without doubt, one of those places.  The location is extremely unique, exotic and romantic, however we aren't gazing at each other because we can't take our eyes off the view.

Wildwaters Lodge is situated on a private island in The Nile River accessible only by boat.  We park the Discovery in the secure parking lot and wait on the dock for the boat to pick us up.  As we wait, we take in our surroundings and get a glimpse of one of the ten guest rooms and are eager to see what else awaits us on the island.  Butterflies flutter around us, water birds fly above us and when we look closely at the crystal water below us,
we see fish swimming and in the background we hear the sound of the mighty Nile River crashing over the rocks.  A wooden canoe comes gliding across the water towards us and as it nestles in next to the dock we are greeted with big smiles and welcomed to Wildwaters.  We are given life jackets and gently climb in the canoe and take our seats.  The sun is shining in a perfectly powder blue sky speckled with fluffy white clouds as we are paddled over to the island.  We admire our surroundings and enjoy the scenery from the water level.

When we arrive on the island we are led over elevated wooden walkways to the restaurant.  We enter through beautiful hand carved timber doors and are taken to a table for two. The restaurant is under a high thatch roof and overlooks the natural rock swimming pool.  Just a few metres beyond the pool is a thundering rapid in the Nile River.  As we stare into the idyllic natural surroundings we sink our teeth into a fish burger, fish and chips and wash it down with ice cold beer.  After a satisfying meal, we aren't ready to tear ourselves away just yet so we indulge in a chocolate dessert and cappuccinos.  Eventually, we stroll back over the walkways to the canoe which takes us back to the mainland.  Our time at Wildwaters was too short since we only visited for lunch.  This incredibly beautiful serene lodge is definitely worth spending more time at, the location is like nothing we have experienced before. 

For More Information

http://wild-uganda.com/

Bujagali Memories

In late 2011 the headwaters of the Nile River were flooded in preparation for the launch of the Bugagali Dam.  The area has become the reservoir for the new dam which began operation in February 2012.  This past weekend we had our first opportunity to see the headwater region since the flooding.  The water has risen several metres taking with it a number of rapids that used to be a part of The Nile including the famous grade 5 rapids Bujagali Falls.  At the moment things look slightly awkward as the rising water has engulfed the area.  Trees that once grew from the islands are now merely tree tops slowly succumbing to their new environment.  The immense sound of the water crashing can no longer be heard making the area very peaceful.  The reservoir now known as Lake Bujagali has the potential to become a hotspot for birding and sport fishing.  Looking down the river the Bujagali Dam can be seen in the background along with transmission towers and cables that disappear into the horizon to help supply the nation with much needed electricity.  Although Bujagali Falls no longer exists we recalled the good times we've had and will cherish for years to come.

RAFTING Our first encounter with the mighty Bujagali Falls was in 2002 on a raft.  It was the first time either of us had been rafting and we obviously weren't meant to stay in that raft for long!  As we manoeuvred through Bujagali our raft bounced around before being lifted high into the air and overturning, leaving us swimming through the rapids looking for the fastest way to get back into the raft.
CAMPING NEXT TO BUJAGALI At the time we didn't realize that camping next to Bujagali Falls and falling asleep to the roar of the cascading water would be a limited time offer.  This was the first place that we ever camped in Uganda so obviously the place holds special memories.  We will never forget waking up to the calls of the African Fish Eagle, the cool crisp air and the mist over the river.
THE ENTERTAINMENT Lastly, how can we forget those daredevils that would delight tourists by "rafting" the falls clutching onto the handle of a 20 litre plastic jerry can.  Anxious spectators wondering if this was safe would contribute money and then watch as the skill full swimmers would throw themselves to the mercy of the river.  Jumping into the water and then plunging over the falls, disappearing underwater and then popping up slightly downstream.  Proud of their feat the daredevils would come running back with  toothless grins, I suppose there was the odd encounter with a rock, but they never bothered to mention that and were eager to do it again. That wasn't the only entertainment at Bujagali Falls.  Every morning people from the surrounding villages would come in droves to watch kayakers and rafts full of people traverse through the feisty water erupting in cheers when they were successful and watching with slight terror when rafts would flip. For many, this appeared to be a highlight of their day. Bujagail Falls, thanks for the memories!! Please note that although you can no longer raft Bujagali Falls, the opportunity to experience Grade 5 rafting on The Nile is still possible below the Bujagali Dam.  We're only wondering if this means we have to pluck up the courage to raft The Nile again.

An Inventive Fishing Boat

Fisherman on the Nile River are commonplace and their fishing boats vary widely.  Some boats are simply hollowed out sections of a tree and and others are hand crafted canoes.  They vary in size and color and always make for and interesting sight on the water.  One young man that we met recently while exploring the river looking for birds had taken ingenuity to the extreme!  Clad only in his underwear, he was floating on a banana tree stem and used his feet as a motor of sorts.

Carefully hanging at the front of his vessel was a makeshift storage compartment made from small sticks and a plastic bag which carried his clothes, presumably for when he returned to shore.  His fishing line and hooks were meticulously attached to the banana stem along with his catch of the day.

 

Although this is probably not the image that comes to mind when you think of a fishing boat, it's working and for this young man it's extremely cost effective.  One can only hope that as the months and years pass, his savings will translate into something more traditional as his business grows from mere subsistence fishing to commercial fishing.  What a crafty water craft!

Nile High

On a daily basis we experience Uganda from the ground and are familiar with it's sights, sounds and smells.  We have visited the source of the Nile River, camped along it's banks and fished in it's water many times.  To gain new perspective on a country that we love, we took a 90 minute scenic flight.

Cessna 172

I had never been in a small aircraft before and was full of nervous excitement.  Kevin had flown to Lake Albert previously so was excited to see Uganda once again from the air and to get me in a small aircraft to see what I thought.  We boarded a Cessna 172 at the Kajjansi airfield, the pilot logged our flight plan, started the engine, taxied out to the long murram runway and before long we were floating above the earth.  The moment we were off the ground my nervousness subsided and I was in awe of what I saw.

Wetlands

We took off from Kajjansi in a south east direction over wetlands before reaching the waters of Lake Victoria.  I had seen these types of images in books before, but now I was seeing it for myself and it was incredible.  We turned in an eastern direction and followed the edge of the lake shores passing over fields, villages and people carrying out their daily activities, some of them pausing to look up and see what was passing overhead.

Then it was time for the highlight, the whole reason we had decided to take this flight, The Nile River.  We flew over the source of the Nile and Jinja town before taking a sharp left turn to head North and follow the river.

Source of the Nile River

Having driven over the Owen Falls Dam numerous times, it was fascinating to see it from the air.  It gave me a whole new perspective on the dam and it's operation.  As we followed the river we saw many of the places that we have visited and stayed at over the years.  The new Bujagali Dam which is in it's final stages of construction was a busy place.  Lot's of people and heavy machinery hard at work to complete the project and start producing much needed power for the country.

Bujagali Dam

We circled around some rapids in the river and instead of hearing the thundering of water that usually goes with seeing them, we heard only the light hum of the engines.  It was a very peaceful and serene way of watching all that water come crashing down rapids we know well and have fished below many times.

Rapids on the Nile River

A gentle left put us in a south western direction heading straight for Mabira Forest.  A beautiful, lush green dense mass of life.  I was so fascinated with the forest.  As we were flying over the forest a light rain began to gently hit the windscreen, it was mystical!  I couldn't stop thinking of all the life that was down below in the rainforest.

The last part of the flight carried us over Jinja road on the outskirts of Mukono, over Murchison Bay with Kampala city on our right and Munyonyo before we swung round to face south east and prepare for our landing which was as smooth as butter.  With that, we were back on terre ferme.  What a unbelievable experience!  I'll never forget it and can't wait to fly small craft again.

For more information on scenic or charter flights contact:
Kampala Aeroclub And Flight Training Centre
http://www.flyuganda.com/

Uganda is #1

Many people in Uganda have been buzzing this week following the exciting news that Lonely Planet has announced that Uganda tops their "Best in Travel" list for 2012.  The excitement stems from the fact that those of us who live in Uganda have known all along that it is a special place and we are excited and proud to see it recognized especially by the well respected Lonely Planet.  These are the reasons why Uganda is so special to us and why we fully agree that it’s #1.

THE PEOPLE

Ugandan people are incredibly friendly people.  It is so easy to get a wave or a smile from complete strangers.  As you drive down the road children are jumping up and down, waving and calling out mzungu (white person).  If approached, Ugandans are happy to share some time with you and have a chat.  They are incredibly proud people and have the right to be as they have an amazing home.

THE LANDSCAPE

It really is as all the travel brochures brag “gifted by nature”.  Uganda has a lot to offer including the source of the Nile River, beaches on the largest lake in Africa - Lake Victoria, the famed Rwenzori Mountains (Mountains of the Moon), mountain gorillas and between it all lush green rainforests, savannah grasslands, tea plantations and a lot of really great people.

THE BIRD-LIFE

Uganda is home to 1061 bird species making it a bird watchers paradise.  You don't even need to leave Kampala to enjoy the bird-life, you can find over 300 species in the city and the surrounding suburbs.  Every morning you are guaranteed to wake to a chorus of song from the avifauna of Uganda.

THE WEATHER

With average daily temperatures of 21.5°C (71° F), need I say more?  Uganda straddles the equator but due to it's elevation it experiences moderate comfortable temperatures year round.  It has two seasons, a dry season and a wet season, each occurring twice a year.  Don't let the name wet season fool you though as the sun is generally out between the rains.  The tropical storms are amazing to experience with winds blowing, lightening flashing, thunder clapping, palm trees waving frantically and more rain falling from the sky than you thought possible.

NEVER A DULL MOMENT

Just when you think you've seen it all, you'll round the corner and see something that will make your jaw drop, make you laugh or just amaze you.  Uganda offers so much to see and enjoy every minute of every day whether you are on safari or making your way through the taxi's and boda boda's on your way to work.

We have had the opportunity to see a lot of Uganda and yet there is still so much we haven't seen.  Uganda has a lot to offer anyone who is looking for an exciting holiday.  

Congratulations Uganda on being number one, we're proud of you!

Why Uganda should be on your must-see list
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/uganda/travel-tips-and-articles/76859

Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel: top 10 countries for 2012
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/uganda/travel-tips-and-articles/76856

Laundry Day on The Nile

Water is a very precious resource and essential to many of our daily activities.  For those living along the banks of The Nile, the river becomes central to those activities, one of them being laundry. 

The banks of the river turn into brightly colored palettes of plastic washing basins and clothes laying out to dry in large contrast to the lush green landscape and dark colored rocks.  

It makes me think of how much we take for granted that when we turn on a tap, water flows out.  For many people around the world, so much of their day is consumed by doing basic chores vital to life.