Playing Peek A Boo with a Hippo

One of our most memorable safari experiences and one that we talk about often happened several years ago while we were on safari in the Queen Elizabeth National Park.  After a satisfying lunch at Mweya Lodge, we decided to go out for an afternoon game drive.  Many people say that there is not a lot to see during the hot afternoon hours, but this encounter would prove those people wrong.

Just several kilometres away from the lodge along the channel track, we rounded a corner and next to the road was a pool of muddy water with a massive muddy body lumbering away from it.  It was a hippo.  They are amazing creatures to see out of the water so on this particular instance we decided to give the pool of water and the vehicle a bit of space, turn off the engine and see if the hippo would eventually return to his wallow.  We fully expected that it would run off and find another retreat from the blazing sun and the heat.

After about 15 minutes of keeping our voices to a whisper, we saw the hippo peek out of the bushes quite a distance from the car.  It paused for a moment to assess the situation and then retreated back into the bushes.  Again, we waited for another 15 minutes before seeing it again.  This time it was much closer than the first time and again, peeking out of the bushes, another assessment and another retreat.  We continued our waiting game and then saw it peeking out of the bushes at us, right next to the giant puddle.  After staring at our vehicle for quite some time, we were obviously seen as no threat and the hippo fully emerged from the bushes and as gently as a hippo could, got back into its puddle.

We were so amazed at the process of checking if the coast was clear and how with each inquiry, it was getting closer and closer to us.  This experience was definitely worth waiting around for, when else would we get the opportunity of playing peek-a-boo with a hippo!

King of the Mountain

On safari it takes a sharp eye to spot animals due to their ability to camouflage so well with their environment. This is an impressive rocky outcrop in the Kidepo Valley National Park isn't it?

That's what I thought until Kevin pointed out that rocks don't have tails that they can flick. Great spotting!!  The amazing thing about animals is that they always know you are there and I often think they see us when we don't see them.  After all, it is their turf so they're going to know if someone's in it.

This male lion gave us a Disney like experience.  He was lying on the highest point in the vicinity and made several efforts to show us that he was the king of the mountain.  We admired this mighty beast for quite awhile during which he, took a couple cat naps, got up and stretched a few times and glanced over to remind us that he knew we were watching it all.

A simply magnificent experience and one which makes you look at things a little closer when on safari!

Into the Wild at Kidepo Valley National Park

Standing in the vast openness, I stare up at the night sky and am in awe of what I see, more stars than I ever knew existed. The Milky Way is a smear in the sky. Looking up at this is the end to a perfect day in the African bush. There is a part of me that wants to keep this special place a secret but it wouldn’t be fair not to share what a wonderful place the Kidepo Valley National Park and my unforgettable stay at N’ga Moru Wilderness Camp.

I have wanted to visit Kidepo Valley NP for many years and finally had my chance. My husband and I packed up the beloved Land Rover and together with family from overseas we set off full of anticipation to find out what this park was all about. Tucked in North Eastern Uganda and bordering the Sudan and Kenya we knew that getting there was going to be part of the fun. An early start from Kampala had us out onto the open road heading north and before we knew it we were crossing over the Nile and the stunning Karuma Falls. We arrive in Gulu and take a break to have some lunch, a cold drink and stretch our legs before driving to Kitgum for an overnight stop at Fugly’s.  Fugly’s is a great spot to overnight to break up the journey. The drinks are cold, the food is good and there is a pool.  The next morning we woke up to the birds singing and the sun shining.  After a cup of coffee and some breakfast, we filled up with fuel and hit the road headed towards the Kidepo Valley.

The 2 ½ hour drive from Kitgum to the N’ga Moru Wilderness Camp was my favorite part of the drive. The graded murram road passes by numerous small villages with clusters of mud and thatch huts. Children lined the roadside waving, dancing and shouting out greetings. The road winds through the Keler and Loniyili mountain ranges and offers some amazing views. It’s not the kind of drive that you want to rush because there are so many places to stop and admire the scenery. 

Some people we met walking on the road in the pass
Mom has sheltered the baby on her back from the sun with a large gourd, a common practice in the north

As we dropped down into the Kidepo Valley, the way to the camp is clearly marked with signs. We arrive just before lunch and sit down with our hosts, the proprietors of N’ga Moru and Fugly’s, Patrick and Lyn.  They are always welcoming and a joy to sit and chat with and are full of information about the park and surrounding area.  It doesn't take long to realize that they love the African bush and they revel in the joy of sharing it with their guests.  Over some nice food and great company we periodically gaze out across the valley to admire the Morungule Mountains in the distance.

The camp sits on 98 acres on the border of the park. N’ga Moru means “The Place of Rocks” and just a few minutes into our late afternoon drive, I soon understand that the name is appropriate. We explore the area around the wilderness camp and there is plenty of game on the property and the views over the valley are outstanding. Kidpeo is so remote, unspoilt and pristine, you truly feel like you are in one of the last great wildernesses. 

On Safari

Our accommodation is a large luxury canvas tent tucked under a thatched roof with a large toilet and shower ensuite. The beauty of the tents is that there is no need for mosquito nets; essentially you are sleeping in a giant net. Keeping the flaps of the tent open allows for lots of fresh air and the sounds of park night-life. Next to the tent under the thatch roof is a veranda with a couple of safari chairs that face the valley, a perfect spot to sit and take it all in. 

Our tent under thatch roof with stunning views over the valley

At the end of every day you’ll find a fire ablaze in the large fire pit encircled by chairs.  What a perfect place to sit down enjoy the sunset over the mountains. With a cold drink in hand there isn’t anything more I could ask for, a stunning location, great company and a beautiful African sunset. 

After dinner Patrick takes us out on a night drive. After about 10 minutes of driving through the darkness waving our floodlights back and forth, we heard a large noise in the bushes, an elephant not far off the road. What a fantastic sighting, but the best was yet to come! I was sharing the back seat of the open air vehicle with a friend and we could hear a loud puffing noise coming from behind us. We shone our lights around to where the noise is coming from and see an extremely large puff adder; it was easily six feet long.  It was the largest puff adder that any of us had ever seen. We sat in silence as it moved off the road and disappeared into the bush with all its grace and beauty, marveling at the pattern of its skin. I am not a big fan of snakes, but do think they are beautiful to admire from a distance.  To witness this was a truly amazing sight!!

In the morning, we were woken by the light just in time to see a giant orange ball emerge from behind the mountains and flood the valley with daylight. Another day begins; the only question is what it will hold. After some breakfast, we’re off for a game drive in the park.  It is a 10 minute drive to the Katarum Gate where we enter KVNP. Immediately we see a rock hyrax scurrying along the cliffs nearby. The drives are beautiful and there’s lots to see including a herd of buffalo which is rumored to be the largest standing herd in East Africa. The buffalo are on the move and it’s incredible to watch. There are also elephants, lion, zebra, giraffe, warthogs, crocodiles, oribi, waterbuck, bushbuck, reedbuck and numerous species of birds for us to enjoy. There is so much more I can tell you about this place and the three days that we spent there, but the best is to go and discover it for yourself, you won’t be disappointed. N’ga Moru is a real bush experience in one of the most beautiful and remote parks in East Africa, Kidepo Valley National Park. 

N’ga Moru Wilderness Camp

Website: www.ngamoru.com

Mobile: +256 754 500555

Email:ngamoruwildernesscamp@gmail.com.

Elephant in Kidepo Valley National Park

Pelican Point

You may wonder where our background picture was taken and the story behind it.  In 2008 on a camping trip to Queen Elizabeth National Park, we were exploring nature reserves near the park and came across Pelican Point. Kevin and I were both so moved by this place as it is truly one of the most beautiful places we have ever seen.  The savannah grasslands and the lush green forest collide with Lake Edward in the background.  Pelican Point is an unforgettable place and the epitome of why we love to travel and explore.

For the Love of It!

Out of a love for Africa, exploring, camping, photography, writing and our 1991 Landrover Discovery, this online diary is born.  Kevin a Volkswagen fanatic through his teens and twenties had always dreamed of owning a Landrover, so when we relocated to Uganda it seemed like the opportune moment to seize a dream! We have covered thousands of miles on Ugandan roads and have had some unforgettable experiences, but we both know that there is plenty more out there, so we're intent on experiencing more and discovering as much as we can.  Join us on our adventures!