Bakers Lodge - Murchison Falls NP

For nearly a decade, Exclusive Camps and Lodges have been well-known for offering high quality lodges in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest NP (Buhoma Lodge) and Ishasha, Queen Elizabeth NP (Ishasha Wilderness Camp).  Recently, their newest addition has opened its doors in the ever popular Murchison Falls NP and it is no surprise that it boasts the same “wow” factor as the other lodges.  Situated on the south bank of the mighty Nile River, guests can sit at eye level to the river and watch as it gently flows by.  The proximity to the Nile River is what sets this lodge apart from all others.  All that lies between the lodge and one of the most famous rivers of all time is sprawling grass and large shade trees.  Bakers Lodge offers a Nile River experience like no other.

The lodge is named after the British explorer Samuel Baker, who is famous for his exploration of the Nile.  Late in the 1800’s Samuel and his wife Florence spent time around the area during their expedition of the river.  Samuel Baker was the first European to view and subsequently name the Murchison Falls.  In keeping with this theme, the decor of the lodge is reminiscent of the exploration era.  Wood, leather and canvas are abundant in the main lodge area which is a large wooden deck raised up off the ground.  There are several large sofas and chairs to relax in and enjoy the view, read a book or just to sit and contemplate just where you are in the world.  A large portion of the main lodge is covered with a thatch roof with an open air deck on each side.  The bar stocks wines and a selection of spirits as well as water, soda and local beer which is kept cold via their eco friendly solar powered energy system.

Accommodation at Bakers Lodge is individual cottages elevated off the ground.  The very spacious en-suite cottages have large netted windows on all sides for an open airy feeling.  Each cottage is positioned with consideration of privacy from others, has a wooden deck off the front and a view of the river, a great place to sip on your morning cup of coffee or tea.  The cottages are furnished with wooden furniture, a writing desk and chair, beds with side tables, lockable safe, and an open wardrobe for clothes and is lit with solar lighting.

The large netted windows on the front of the cottage roll up for an unobstructed view of the river.  The beds have been designed to sit up in comfortably to enjoy the view.  I sat on my bed for quite some time with my binoculars, enjoying the bird life and the view while listening to the grunts of hippos.  I felt like I was watching a large HDTV and had to pinch myself that what I was watching was real.  It was awesome!

The cottages are self contained with a large bathroom, flushing toilet and running water.  Double sinks sit on top of a spacious wooden table with a mirror hanging above.  The shower is open and faces the view so while you are washing off the dust of the day, you can revel in the amazing view.  Hot water in the bathroom is provided by a solar energy system.

Every evening, just before sunset a fire is lit between the main lodge and the river.  It’s a great place to sit with a cold drink, watch the last of the day light fade away, reflect on your day, watch the stars in the sky slowly come to life and cherish another day in Africa.  The campfire is a great place to interact with other guests and swap safari stories.  The ever attentive staff is never far away to take your drink orders so you don’t have to leave the magic and the ambiance of the fire.  Once dinner is ready, the staff show you to your table, top up your drinks and begin the dinner service.

The food at Bakers Lodge was nothing short of amazing.  All of the meals we had were delicious and plentiful.  We started our mornings with a wake up call at our cottage followed by a freshly brewed cup of coffee on our verandah.  As we sat and enjoyed the dawn of a new day, many species of birds were fishing and hunting in the nearby wetland next the river while agama lizards chased each other to protect their territory on the ground and in the trees around us.  Breakfast is served in the main lodge and cooked as per your order along with fresh fruit, cereal, cold meats and cheeses, coffee, tea and fresh juice served buffet style. We had our three course lunch al fresco in the shade of a large tree on the deck of the main lodge.  As the gentle breeze blew we enjoyed both the view and the food.  After some sundowners around the fire, we had a four course dinner under a blanket of stars on the deck.  As we savoured a salad course, soup course, main course and dessert, we talked about our day and made plans for the next while listening to the night sounds of crickets, frogs, hippos.  The dinner atmosphere at Bakers Lodge was magical and a perfect way to end a day.

Getting to Bakers Lodge, you have a choice of routes once you reach Masindi town which is 215 kilometres north of Kampala.  The most direct route is to enter Murchison Falls NP from the Kichumbanyobo gate which takes you through the south side of the park through the Kaniyo Pabidi forest.  A longer but more scenic route passes through Budongo forest before descending into the rift valley next to Lake Albert.  This route gets you to the lodge without entering the national park as Bakers Lodge sits just outside of the Bugungu gate.  The lodge is well marked with signposts at the entrance, so it’s easy to find.

Murchison Falls National Park is the largest park in Uganda and offers plenty of activities for visitors.  The park is home to elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, giraffe, hyena, jackal, hippos and the Nile crocodiles which are reputed to be “huge”.  The park is well known for its diverse bird population, including the most sought after and unique resident, the shoebill.

A variety of boat excursions can be done on the Nile river.  The waterfall cruise travels up the Nile River to the base of Murchison Falls which is a spectacular sight.  Along the way you can view many species of birds, mammals near the shore that are coming to the water to drink and crocodiles both in and out of the water.  The delta cruise travels down the Nile River to the Victoria Nile Delta where the bird life is prolific and is the best place to search for the shoebill.  If you’re ready for a fishing experience like none other, you can bait your hooks in anticipation for a mighty Nile Perch.  Fishing safaris with an experienced guide and equipment are a popular activity in the area.

All of the boat activities operate daily and can be arranged through Bakers Lodge which has its own fleet of boats and can pick you up from the lodge for the various excursions.  Special arrangements can also be made for breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks or sundowners on board. You can also make your safari more interesting by combining the boats and a safari drive.  Cruise down the Nile River to the delta by boat at sunrise to experience the area from the water and then return with a game drive through the Buligi area which offers a number of tracks and where wildlife abounds.

Chimpanzee trekking can be done in the nearby Budongo forest where you can observe chimpanzees in their natural habitat as well as other primates such a black and white colobus monkeys.  This gentle walk through the forest is an amazing way to experience the sounds of an equatorial tropical rainforest.

For me, the highlight of my stay at Bakers Lodge was the proximity to the river and the spectacular views of it from anywhere around lodge.  I loved the slightly elevated bird’s eye 180 degree river views from the wooden deck of the main lodge and from my cottage the front roll up floor to ceiling large window was pure indulgence.  Lying comfortably on the bed, gazing at the river and listening to the birds, every tension in my entire body melted away.

If you are planning a trip to Murchison Falls NP, throw yourself back into the time of exploration at Bakers Lodge.  Sit in luxury on the banks of the Nile River and imagine what it was like for Samuel Baker to discover this amazing part of Uganda.
For more information and reservations:
Uganda – Wild Frontiers Exclusive Camps & Lodges
PO Box 619, Entebbe, Uganda
Tel/Fax: +256 414 321 479
Mobile: +256 772 721 155
Email: reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
www.ugandaexclusivecamps.com

Murchison River Lodge

Main Lodge - Dining and Bar

Murchison Falls National Park is Uganda's largest national park and a favorite destination for safaris.  Murchison River Lodge is a newly opened lodge on the south bank of the Nile River that offers mid range accommodation in thatched cottages and river view tents.  We decided to have a weekend away and spend it at Murchison River Lodge.

The lodge was very easy to find by following the directions provided and as we got near, junctions were well marked with MRL carved wooden signs.  The parking area is located about 100 metres from the main lodge.  The benefit of this is that early morning noise of cars starting, and car doors opening and closing as people leave for game drives is kept to a minimum for guests that are still sleeping.  We strolled from the parking lot along the path to the large thatched bar and dining area.  We were warmly welcomed in the main lodge bar/reception area and took a moment to admire the river view, large papyrus floating islands and hippos splashing in the water near the opposite bank.  What surprised me about the lodge location is the close proximity to the river.

On the veranda of the cottage

Our plan was to spend two nights at the lodge and since we couldn’t decide between the cottages and the tents, we opted for a night in each.  Our first night was spent in a thatched cottage.  With a rear entry the cottages are well laid out and spacious.  They are designed to fit a family of four with two single beds downstairs and a large bed on the mezzanine level all equipped with mosquito nets.  A wooden verandah is suspended off the front of the cottage and looks out over the natural landscape.  The environment gives a real feeling of being in the bush.  Natural vegetation and shrubs surround the cottage but in no way feel unkempt.  As the hot afternoon sun beats down we take time to relax in the hammock and on the sofa while birds chirp and lizards chase each other around.  The furnishings in the room have a lot of character as they have all been constructed using reclaimed timber giving a real rustic safari feel.  The bathroom at the rear of the cottage has a lot of character.  Double sinks set into a chunky slab of timber and a large shower with solar hot water.  We really enjoyed our night in the cottage and felt pampered.

Outside view of a cottage

Inside the cottage (downstairs)

Our second night was spent in a furnished safari tent.  Overlooking the river we had a great view which we could enjoy from our covered veranda.  Inside the tent was a luggage stand for our bags to rest and two single beds with a nightstand between them.  The mesh sides of the tent provided airflow and allowed us to clearly hear all the sounds of the hippos, frogs and other night time noises.  Just behind our tent was a bush shower and a chemical toilet.  The water for the bush shower is not heated but comes from a small black water tank that does heat from the sun so it’s in no way cold.  Time it right at the end of the day and you’ll appreciate the refreshing water.  During the night a large storm rolled in and continued until the morning.  It is a night I will never forget for as long as I live.  Thunder claps loudly from all directions, flashes of lights and the continuous mesmerizing sound of the rain falling on the tent cover.  I have never heard thunder so loud and yet even that didn’t make me budge from the warm cozy comfort of my bed.

The Main Lodge overlooking The Nile River

The main lodge, dining and bar area is a comfortable, peaceful place to hang out and relax.  With views over the river you can get comfortable on a sofa, lie in a hammock or sit around a picnic table and interact with other guests.  A short meander from the lodge is a lookout point over the river.  The perfect spot to take a seat on one of the benches, enjoy a sundowner and watch the setting sun with the river in the foreground.

The food was a stand out part of our stay.  Fresh ingredients combined with homestyle cooking made every meal enjoyable.  The food wasn’t greasy in the slightest.  Freshness all around.  We started the mornings with coffee brought to our veranda.  A press full of Ugandan coffee is a great way to start any day.  Breakfast is made to order with your choice of eggs, bacon, sausage, beans and mushrooms served with homemade toasted bread and juice.  The breakfast was great with the best scrambled eggs I’ve had in awhile.  Lunch is served buffet style and consists of cold salads, freshly sliced vegetables and homemade bread.  Refreshing lunch to break up a hot dusty day.  We also tried out a packed lunch to take and eat on our safari drive.  We were given a choice of several sandwiches again on homemade bread accompanied by fresh fruit and juice.  Dinner is a set menu consisting of three courses.  Dietary restrictions and vegetarians can be catered for, you just need to let them know.  Our first night the starter was vegetable sticks and guacamole, followed by steak, roast potatoes and vegetables and finished with a dessert of lemon cake which made me feel like a kid again since it tasted just like my Mom’s recipe.  On night two we started with tomato soup followed by roast chicken with rice and vegetables and a chocolate slice for dessert.  There is nothing I can fault with the food at Murchison River Lodge.

Main lodge looking over The Nile River

On our second night a camp fire was lit and people from the surrounding villages gathered around it to tell stories through songs.  Throughout our meal we could hear humming, singing and traditional stringed instruments being played.  After dinner as we joined in taking seats on the stone bench surrounding the fire, and were welcomed with local songs and introduced to members of the community who invited us to dance with them.  They wore no costumes but came as they were to share their songs.  It’s moments like these that are Africa at its best and we savored every minute of it.

It is evident that a lot of thought and pride has gone into the design and layout of the lodge.  Since the owners have a young child themselves, they have thought of things to make families with children comfortable like a children's play area and swing under a tamarind tree, a children's menu and early dinner times.  Chris one of the owners, was around during our stay and his passion for the place really shows in the way that he interacts with his guests.

Campsite

Although we didn't camp while there I believe that their campsite deserves mention.  Set away from the cottages, it is well thought out and with amenities like camp kitchens, running water, a spacious toilet and shower block and plenty of flat space to set up your tent, any camper should consider this option if planning a trip to Murchison.  The campsite has a real wilderness feel about it but with all the amenities.  They also offer lazy camping in one of their tents as well as camping in your own tent with an option for full board meals.

The drive to the park gate is a mere 5 minutes away and within 20 minutes you can be at the Paraa ferry.  There are two routes to the lodge, the much shorter route takes you through the park and the longer more scenic route skirts the park and avoids park entry costs.

What I enjoyed most about the lodge was it’s rustic wild feel without sparing any comforts, the attention to detail and non pretentious nature of the place.  There is something about the Murchison River Lodge that I can’t quite put my finger on but when you’re there you feel very relaxed and at home.  A place where time matters little and relaxing is foremost.  If you’re planning a safari to Murchison I would highly recommend this little gem.

Since visiting, we are happy to inform that Murchison River Lodge has started building a swimming pool.

Cottages surrounded by natural vegetation

A Giraffe Nap

On a late afternoon game drive through Murchison Falls National Park, we spotted several giraffes lying down.  I have often wondered why giraffe's are not seen lying down often.  My curiosity got the better of me and I learned that giraffe's only sleep for about 30 minutes per day and these 30 minutes are broken up into several naps generally shorter than five minutes in length each.  During sleep, the giraffe lays down and curls it's neck back to rest on it's hind quarters.  Most of a giraffe's time is spent eating leaves from the acacia tree.  Using it's long 21 inch black tongue, it gently plucks the leaves from the acacia tree from between the acacia's large thorns.  An adult giraffe can eat up to 75 pounds of acacia leaves a day and much like a cow, giraffe's have four stomachs and regurgitate their food to chew it as cud.  So basically a giraffe spends a lot of time eating, and very little time sleeping or laying around.  The next time I see a giraffe laying on the ground I will appreciate the relatively rare moment in the giraffe's day captured.