Uganda Carnivore Program

Climb aboard any safari vehicle and ask guests what they want to see most and the answer is generally unanimous.....big cats.  Lions and leopards are the most popular animals that people want to see while on safari.  Unfortunately, due to ongoing pressures of growing human populations, the populations of large carnivores, mainly lions, leopards and hyenas are decreasing as a result of habitat loss.  Thankfully, the Uganda Carnivore Program, in close collaboration with the Uganda Wildlife Authority, is working hard to minimize human wildlife conflict and is dedicated to monitoring, researching and conserving the large predators in Uganda.

The Uganda Carnivore Program bases its core activities in the northern sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park in western Uganda.  The pressures facing the carnivores of this area are not unique, but rather are typically experienced throughout Africa.  As human populations increase in the areas surrounding the park and its enclave villages, the conflict between wildlife and humans rise. The Uganda Carnivore Program (“UCP”) takes a multi-disciplinary approach to conservation.  Since the mid 1990s, they have focused on training and research as well as community-based activities that increase local participation in conservation and promote human-wildlife coexistence.  Working in conjunction with the Uganda Wildlife Authority, their research consists of monitoring carnivore ecology and health and tracking their movements near “conflict zones” where there is the potential to come in contact with people and livestock.  UCP makes recommendations to the UWA in regards to management of carnivores and also assists in the mitigation process during times of human-wildlife conflict. 

UCP also works closely with the villages surrounding the park on education and methods to reduce the conflict between the villagers and the wildlife.  Through the research and monitoring of the animals, villages can be warned when predators are in the area and given the tactics and skills to protect themselves and their livestock.  Between 2006 and 2012 the primary cause of death to large carnivores in the northern sector of Queen Elizabeth NP was human related, with poisoning in retaliation for livestock depredation being the number one cause.  However, in the past three years, there have been no recorded incidences of poisoning in the villages in which UCP works. UCP educates people on the benefits of wildlife and aids them in developing community based programs in which they can directly benefit from local tourism.  Current activities of the UCP include conservation education outreach programs in village schools which inform the youth of the village about the important role that wildlife has to play and the importance of conservation efforts for long term sustainability.

An important aspect of the Uganda Carnivore Program is educating visitors on the wildlife of the park as well as the people that live in the surrounding areas of Queen Elizabeth NP.  The best way to learn more is to participate in the lion tracking experience.  Bookings for this can be made through the Uganda Wildlife Authority.  You can contact UCP to arrange a visit to the park’s villages, where you can watch cultural performances and purchase locally made crafts.  Besides visiting Queen Elizabeth NP and participating in the activities offered, how can you help protect the large carnivores?  The UCP operates on limited funds and welcomes support for their initiatives.  This can be done in several ways, either by making a donation or by sponsoring certain aspects of their activities.  To find out more and how you can be of help, visit the Uganda Carnivore website to learn more about their activities and contact them directly. 

It’s hard to imagine going on safari and not having the opportunity to see large carnivores.  As human beings, we all play an important role in the conservation efforts needed to combat the pressure that growing populations are placing on wildlife.  We all need to do our part and play an active role in protecting them; our wildlife and large carnivores are depending on us!

For more information
http://www.uganda-carnivores.org
https://www.facebook.com/uganda.carnivores
contact@uganda-carnivores.org

Katara Lodge

Katara Lodge

Uganda is a diverse country with many scenic landscapes spread throughout.  In my opinion, one of the most spectacular views of all is from the top of the escarpment of the Albertine Rift Valley overlooking the Queen Elizabeth National Park.  It's a breathtaking view and stereotypical of Africa.  Katara Lodge is nestled on the hillside of the escarpment and has the pleasure of offering this incredible view to its guests.

Katara Lodge is situated two kilometres off the main Mbarara to Kasese road in Kichwamba accessed by a murram road. Upon arrival to Katara Lodge, an oasis of lush colorful tropical gardens await you.  From the parking lot, you enter the main lodge, dining and bar area.  With the entire main lodge open to the view, it's easy to get mesmerised by the the savannah plains, Lake Edward and the Kazinga Channel framed by the  Rwenzori and Virunga mountains in the distance.  The lodge is built on a hillside so no matter where you are on the property, you are treated to the view.  The main lodge has a number of comfortable seating options, ensuring that you find the perfect spot to get comfortable and relax.  WiFi is available in the bar area so that you can stay connected whether it’s for work or to share with friends and family about your stay Katara Lodge.

On our arrival to Katara Lodge we were met by the manager who led us to some comfortable chairs in the lounge where we sat, sipped on a cold drink and enjoyed the beautiful gardens and the expansive view.  He gave us an introduction and orientation to the lodge and briefed us on everything we would need to know during our stay at Katara Lodge to ensure we were comfortable and making the most of the facilities.  After chatting to him for awhile about the lodge and the park, we were shown to our cottage. 

Inside the cottage

Katara's accomodation is below the main lodge accessible by a series of stone footpaths and steps. Spread out along the hillside are 8 spacious thatched cottages, one of them being a two bedroomed family cottage. There are quite a number of steps from the main lodge to the cottages, however we found this to be an opportunity to stop, enjoy the view and admire the flowers along the pathways.  Each cottage is constructed from a combination of wooden poles and canvas panels that zip open for access to the view.  The cottages are an

The view from the cottage

open plan design with a sitting area furnished with a sofa, two chairs and a coffee table. Adjacent to the sitting area is a king sized bed with mosquito net along with a three quarter bed fitted with large wheels.  The three quarter bed is very unique for that fact that it can be wheeled out onto the large private wooden veranda for a night under the stars.  The well manicured and colourful tropical gardens of Katara Lodge attract numerous species of birds and each morning a chorus of birds announce the arrival of a new day.   

Every cottage has a large ensuite bathroom with the luxury of a double sink, a large open shower with a rain head shower head and plenty of hot water supplied by a solar system.  The icing on the cake in the bathroom is the large stand alone roll top bathtub where you can lay back and admire the view.  The accommodation at Katara Lodge provides guests with plenty of space and privacy so that between safari drives, you have a place away from others to call your own.

Dining area

Katara's dining experience was very good.  Our mornings started with coffee delivered to our cottage followed by breakfast in the main lodge dining area.  Fresh fruits, yogurt, cereals and juice along with more coffee and hot water for tea were all waiting for us.  We also had the option of having eggs, bacon, sausages and toast, which were cooked to order.  On our first day at Katara, we had decided to spend the better part of the day exploring Queen Elizabeth National Park so we opted for a packed lunch.  Our sandwiches, juice, fruit, cheese and crackers were all neatly packed into a traditional Ugandan woven picnic basket, a very nice touch. The following day we had lunch at the lodge and were given a choice of sandwiches or meatballs and rice.  Since we had tried the sandwiches the day before we opted for the meatballs which were served with an onion gravy alongside rice.  Not only was it good, it was a nice sized portion that was just right for lunch. 

In the evenings, the open air thatched restaurant is transformed with soft lighting and lanterns to create a wonderfully intimate atmosphere.  A chalkboard lists the evening's menu which consists of four courses.  The meal begins with a starter followed by a bowl of hot soup.  The main course is a choice of three different entrees, one of them a vegetarian option.  Lastly but certainly not least the meal is finished with a decadent dessert.  Avocado vinaigrette, mushrooms on toast, celery soup, minestrone soup, baked fish, pepper steak, pork chops, roast chicken, creme caramel and pineapple sponge cake were the dishes that we were served during our dinners at Katara Lodge.  We thoroughly enjoyed all of our meals which were very well presented, well seasoned and well portioned.  Katara Lodge stocks a variety of wines to enjoy with your meal.  They also offer a house wine which can be purchased by the glass or in a carafe.  After a long day on safari, it's nice to enjoy a good evening meal which can be shared with good company in a nice environment and Katara Lodge definitely caters to their guests ensuring them of a great dining experience.     

Enjoying the view from the swing seat

At Katara Lodge, guests have a prime spot to watch the sunset.  From anywhere on the property you can watch as the sun slowly sinks lower in the sky over the savannah of Queen Elizabeth National Park eventually disappearing behind the impressive mountain ranges in the west.  As the sky becomes a palette of blue mixed with dark ocre and bright orange tones, you can sip on a cold drink and recap the day.  As if the view isn’t already one of the best, the setting sun painting the sky with vibrant colors makes it even better. 

Chaise loungers on the pool deck

A short meander away from the main lodge is an infinity salt water pool that is built on the hillside.  Around the pool deck are a number of chaise loungers and umbrellas as well as a large chill out area with plenty of sofas and chairs, toilet facilities and changing rooms under a large thatched roof.  A member of staff is readily available to serve you cold drinks, offer you a towel and ensure you have everything you need for a lazy afternoon around the pool. Near the pool is a large suspended daybed, which is yet another spot at Katara Lodge to take a load off and enjoy the view. 

There are many activities in and around Queen Elizabeth NP making Katara Lodge a great place to base yourself.  The most popular activities for visitors are chimpanzee tracking in Kyambura Gorge, safari drives in the park and the boat launch trip on the Kazinga Channel.  The lodge is close to Kyambura Gorge where the chimpanzee tracking start point is and is approximately a 20 minute drive to the gates of the park.  Other activities near the lodge are chimpanzee tracking and forest walks within the Kalinzu Forest Reserve as well as nature walks in the Maramagambo Forest.  An interpretive village walk around the community that surrounds Katara Lodge can be an interesting and interactive way to get to know and understand the culture and way of life of the Banyaruguru people.  For those interested in exploring the scenery of the area, the nearby Kyigabiiro and Rukiizi hills are beautiful and have great views of the twin crater lakes (Kyema and Kamweru) that lay below.  During your tour, you can learn about the origins of the lakes as well as local folklore and legends.  Katara Lodge is centrally located for all of these activities around Queen Elizabeth NP and makes a nice retreat to come back to every evening.

Katara Lodge has a safari vehicle and can arrange for transfers from nearby airstrips such as Kasese, Mweya or Buhoma for clients that fly in.  The vehicle can also be hired out for game drives or for transfers to the Mweya Peninsula for the boat launch trip on the Kazinga channel.

Queen Elizabeth Park is the most popular national park destination in Uganda.  There is so much to explore and to be enjoyed that it is a highly recommended destination for visitors and residents alike.  If you are looking for a lodge with a serene location, incredible views, comfortable  accomodation, great food and friendly and attentive staff, then Katara Lodge is a great choice.

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND BOOKINGS

+256 (0) 773011648
+256 (0) 712812560
+256 (0) 757812560
+256 (0) 794812560
Email: info@kataralodge.com
Website: http://www.kataralodge.com/

Uganda Balloon Safari

Flying over Queen Elizabeth NP

It was barely light when we climbed into the large woven basket.  As we surveyed our surroundings, the pilot blasted the burners above our heads a couple of times.  The lead member of the ground crew smiled at us and said “you’re flying by the way” I looked over the edge of the basket and we were indeed floating a few inches off the ground.  Another few blasts of the burner and we were a few feet off the ground.  This was just the beginning of an hour floating over the beautiful savannah of Queen Elizabeth National Park.  This new activity that has been recently introduced to Uganda, takes watching the sunrise and looking for lions to a whole new level, literally.

Our experience began in the dark.  The ground crew met us at the Kasenyi gate at 5:30am and after some tests to determine wind direction and speed, a takeoff location was determined and we followed the crew there.  When we arrived, we met our Egyptian pilot Mohammed, who briefed us on what we were about to experience.  As we sipped our steaming cups of coffee, the crew unpacked the balloon and began the cold inflation process using large fans.  I was quite surprised at the size of the balloon, it was much larger than I expected with a capacity of 300,000 cubic feet. 

Inside the balloon

Once the balloon was mostly inflated, we were invited inside, which was pretty amazing.  We learned about the internal workings of the balloon and about the ropes used by the pilot to control the balloon during flight.  Next the hot inflation began, with the burners blasting hot air into the balloon, it slowly started to rise up off the ground in a vertical position.  Once fully inflated, it was time to get in for our flight.

Once inside the basket, we slowly began to lift up off the ground and could hear lions in a nearby thicket.  Our pilot Mohammed was a friendly guy with incredible piloting skills.  Using varying altitudes he navigated us over the thicket several times in hopes of spotting the lions that we could hear.  Although they were very vocal, they were well hidden and eluded us.  As the sun rose, we enjoyed views of the savannah and Lake George while elephant, hippo, and antelope wandered below us.  Our flight varied between a few feet from the ground to an altitude of 2000 feet.  The sensation of flying in a balloon is hard to describe as it’s like nothing else.  Floating above the park, the silence of the savannah below is only periodically broken by blasts from the burners.  The perspective from the

Inflating the balloon with hot air

balloon is truly unique.  We are so used to seeing our surroundings from the ground, however this bird's eye view gives a new appreciation for the entire ecosystem.  Small veins of dark green vegetation carrying water to depressions in the earth where water collects intersected by trails made by wildlife.  Flying just inches over the tops of Euphorbia trees and seeing the thickets from above was the most fascinating part for me.  Flights generally last approximately an hour depending on winds and the availability of a suitable landing site.

After the flight we were met by the ground crew and celebrated the traditional way with a glass of bubbly before sitting down to a delicious bush breakfast.  Fresh juice, tea, coffee, cereal, yogurt and a selection cooked items were served by Mweya Lodge.  Dining in the bush and discussing the details of the flight made for an unforgettable finale to our adventure.

Uganda Balloon Safaris is fully certified by the Civil Aviation Authority and has over 10 years of flying experience in Egypt, Turkey and now Uganda.  Their expertise is evident by the professionalism of the entire crew.  Hot air ballooning over Queen Elizabeth NP offers a unique way to start the day on safari.  As no two flights are the same, you are guaranteed an exclusive experience that you’ll never forget.  

RESERVATIONS AND BOOKING INFORMATION
www.ugandaballoonsafari.com
info@ugandaballoonsafari.com
+256 (0) 759 00 2552  

Sunrise over Queen Elizabeth Natrional Park as seen from the hot air balloon

Mweya Safari Lodge

An iconic landmark since the 1950’s, Mweya Safari Lodge is perched atop a hill on the Mweya peninsula and offers luxury accommodation in the heart of Queen Elizabeth National Park.  As you approach the lodge from the road below, it’s completely unassuming, blending into the natural vegetation around it.  Once inside the lodge, opulence and mesmerizing views surround you.  The ambiance of the place takes you back in time and makes you feel like an early explorer from a bygone era.

Mweya Safari Lodge Lobby

On arrival to Mweya Safari Lodge, the lobby gives you an overall  feel for the place.  Large, spacious and furnished with leather chairs, sofas and safari decor, it’s lavish and inviting.  On the opposite end of the main entrance is a large picture window that draws you closer to the view over Lake Edward and Katwe town.  You can see part of the Mweya peninsula as well, dotted with elephant, hippos and buffalo.  Cold juice and a cool towel welcome every guest on arrival.  The main lodge of Mweya is sprawling and is well positioned great views no matter where you are.

Inside a luxury tent

Mweya Safari Lodge offers various accommodation options ranging from 32 standard rooms, 12 deluxe rooms with air conditioning, 2 suites, 2 standard and 2 luxury safari tents and several cottages.  Standard and deluxe ensuite rooms are tastefully decorated in a safari theme and deliver comfort all around.  Most of the rooms at Mweya Safari Lodge look out over the Kazinga channel so you can enjoy great views as you relax on your private veranda.  Mweya Safari Lodge has 4 different cottages which are perfect for families or those wanting more space, privacy and amenities.  For those seeking the ultimate luxury safari experience, the safari tents are sure not to disappoint and are thoughtfully placed to give guests the utmost privacy.  Each tent has its own large wooden veranda, a perfect place to relax in privacy as you watch the animals on the far bank of the Kazinga Channel as they wander down to the waterside for a drink.  With plenty of vegetation around the tents, there is no shortage of birdlife flitting about. 

Inside a luxury tent

Inside the air conditioned luxury tent there is plenty of space.  A writing desk sits in one corner with a basket overflowing with fresh fruit, tea and coffee facilities and a hidden bar fridge.  In the other corner of the tent is a cozy sitting area with sofa, chair and coffee table.  In the middle of the tent, a king sized bed rests underneath a whirring ceiling fan.  At the head of the bed is a partition wall which separates the main part of the tent from a private closet area with dressing room, dressing table, mirror, hair dryer and a safe.  The modern bathroom is situated at the back of the tent.  As you enter the bathroom  there is a spacious counter, double sinks and full over counter mirror.  To the left is a large walk in shower and to the right a toilet and bidet.  Overall the tent has ample space and every creature comfort has been thought of.  What makes the tents so special is the mesh windows that allow you to enjoy all the sounds of the park from inside the comfort of your tent.  Lie in bed and hear lions roar, hippos grunt and hyena cackle. 

The outside of the main lodge

Mweya Safari Lodge is in the middle of a wildlife setting making escorts essential when returning to your room at night after dinner.  Golf carts and driver get you back to the comfort of your room safely and swiftly.  On our first night at the lodge before turning in for the night, we were relaxing on our veranda when we heard a rustling in the bushes next to us.  We sat wondering what was making the noise in the bushes and to our surprise, a hippo emerged and walked calmly in front of our veranda a mere few metres from where we sat.  We were thrilled as neither of us had ever been that close to a hippo, it was an amazing experience and as quickly as it began, it ended when the hippo disappeared into the bushes on the other side of our tent.  We sat in awe.  Not long after that, we heard the breaking of branches and soon discovered it was seven elephants metres from where we sat.  We sat gazing at them as they ate to their hearts content, and then moved on.  Mweya Safari Lodge may offer all the creature comforts, but it does so while keeping you amongst wildlife.

The Tembo Bar is in a corner of the main lodge and has a nice veranda that wraps around three sides of the bar.  It's a perfect place to enjoy a cold drink and gaze at the views.  It has a wonderful atmosphere with various seating options.  Leather furniture and safari decor abound while soft music plays in the background.  With WiFi and panoramic views of Lake Edward and the Kazinga Channel, the Tembo Bar is an excellent place to sit any time of the day.  The bar is well stocked with an extensive wine list, champagne and spirits as well as espressos and cappuccinos.  The beer and soda are always icy cold to quench your thirst.  The bar staff are friendly and always willing to have a chat in between their drink mixing and glass polishing.  The atmosphere in the Tembo Bar throws you right back to the exploration era, so much so that you feel like an explorer yourself. 

Mweya Safari Lodge with the boat launch below

The Kazinga Restaurant is where meals are served at Mweya Safari Lodge.  The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating.  The outdoor seating is nice for those looking to take in the view or to enjoy the vast birdlife around the lodge.  Be careful though, the weaver birds are sneaky and love to steal a nibble from your food and drink from your milk jug.  They are entertaining to watch to say the least, but with time have become brave around humans.  For me, they are part of the charm of mealtime on the terrace at Mweya Safari Lodge.  The restaurant serves meals both a la carte and buffet style depending on the occupancy at the time.  Both options offer a variety of cuisine from vegetarian, Indian, Continental and local Ugandan dishes.  On a busy night, there is a nice buzz in the dining room, people chatting, laughing and enjoying the end of a day on safari in Africa.  BBQ dinners and pasta evenings  give an extra special dining experience and coincide with traditional singing and dancing.  Once the sun goes down, the lawn outside of the Tembo Bar comes alive with people from the surrounding villages traditionally dressed.  The songs and dances they perform are filled with local legend and storytelling accompanied by the deep rhythms of African drums.  Guests can relish in the entertainment from the veranda of the bar before heading to the dining room for dinner.  On the BBQ evenings, the chefs set up outside the dining room near the pool with their charcoal grills where they grill and roast an assortment of meat and vegetables.  Here you can fill your plate with delicious grilled food before heading inside to compliment it with salads. During the pasta evenings a live cooking station is set up in the dining room where a chef is on hand to prepare your pasta dish with the fresh pasta and ingredients that you have chosen.    

For guests looking for an exclusive dining experience during their stay at Mweya Safari Lodge,  the bush breakfast and dinner were designed for this purpose.  After an early morning game drive, when your stomach is starting to rumble, rather than going back to the lodge for breakfast, a full buffet breakfast is served in a seclusive location several kilometres away from the lodge.  Tables, chairs and a team of chefs and waiters transform the bush into your own private dining area with a view overlooking the channel.   Bush dinners are a magical experience.  Late in the day, when the sun is dropping in the sky, head out into the bush for a sundowner overlooking Lake Edward.  Once the sun sets and the sky begins to darken, your bush dining room comes alive.  Lanterns light up the area beyond which is complete darkness.  Sitting under a ceiling of stars, dinner is served while a bush campfire burns not far away.  Frogs, crickets, nightjars, lions, hyenas and elephants are all part of the soundtrack.  This is an experience of a lifetime, one that will most likely stand out as a highlight of your safari.

The pool

One of the highlights of Mweya Safari Lodge is the beautiful swimming pool adjacent to the restaurant.  Its crystal blue water is inviting, especially on a hot day.  The pool is a lovely place to stay cool in the heat of the African sun while enjoying  the view over the Kazinga Channel.  Snacks and ice cream are also available at the Kazinga Pool bar.  Next to the pool a wooden deck with chaise loungers and large patio umbrellas make for a nice place to laze around. 

Mweya Safari Lodge has a gift shop near the lobby that is open daily.  It offers local crafts and curios for sale alongside books, maps, jewelry, souvenir shirts and caps for you to commemorate your stay at the lodge. The gift shop also sells a few essentials in case you have run out or forgotten something.

Other facilities at Mweya Safari Lodge include a business center for those that need to tend to work while on the road.  The centre offers a quiet atmosphere with internet access and computer facilities.  If you're looking for somewhere unique to host a workshop or conference, the lodge has amenities including a fully equipped conference room.  The health club and spa is a quiet place to get your daily dose of exercise.  If you are wanting a little pampering, they offer massage as well as other beauty treatments.   

Boat trip on the Kazinga Channel

Recently, Mweya Safari Lodge has introduced hot air ballooning which offers visitors a whole new way to experience their safari.  In partnership with Balloon Tours Uganda, (www.ugandaballoonsafari.com) balloon flights lift off just before sunrise over the savannah grasslands of the Kasenyi area of Queen Elizabeth National Park.  Quietly drifting over the Kasenyi plains you will be treated to a beautiful sunrise and the start of a new day in Africa.  It’s an incredible experience.  Upon landing, the lodge serves up a delectable bush breakfast to conclude your balloon safari. Information and bookings can be made through Mweya Safari Lodge.

Mweya Safari Lodge is a popular choice among many travelers.  The location of the lodge is unbeatable as it is inside the park and boasts incredible views.  The staff at the lodge are helpful, friendly and strive to make every aspect of your stay an enjoyable one.  If you enjoy comfort, ambience and outstanding views, then Mweya Safari Lodge should be your choice for your safari in Queen Elizabeth National Park.

For more information and reservations:

Marasa Central Reservations
Plot 96-98, 5TH Street Industrial Area
P.O. Box 22827
Kampala,
Ph:       +256  31 2260260/1
Ph:       +256  41 4255992

reservations@marasa.net
www.marasa.net

Lodge Tel
+ 256 39 2796773
+ 256 41 4340054

21 Day Safari - Uganda

Another beautiful African sunset

For nearly 10 years we have been enjoying bumping around Ugandan roads, exploring the country and often going where few people go. Our recent 21 day safari was the longest to date and gave us a chance to revisit some favorite spots and poke around some new ones. Over the years we have seen so many changes and improvements and seem to do less "bumping" on the roads these days due to highway improvements (unless speed humps count). Uganda is evolving as a tourist destination and it's wonderful to witness. During our trip we experienced outstanding professionalism from the Uganda Wildlife Authority staff and guides wherever we went and the smiles on their faces when they heard that we were spending so much time in Ugandan parks was a joy to see. Their amazement also extended to our roof top tent, many of whom had never seen such a thing. It has taken us many years to build up our arsenal of camping equipment to be able to take such long trips and stay in remote campsites with only basic facilities and we have concluded that it has been well worth it. One of the most rewarding factors of sitting in one place for several days is the chance to see and experience things that you don't get on a rushed journey. The full safari experience really can come to you, often when you least expect it.

The best example of that on this trip was the presence of two lionesses in our campsite one night. We were relaxing around the fire when we heard an unusual noise not far away, we shone our flashlights around and spotted two lionesses. This came on the heels of driving around earlier that day for over four hours looking specifically for these sensational cats. We retreated to the vehicle where we sat and watched and photographed them until they got tired of our bright lights and moved on. An exhilarating experience for sure and one that you're only likely to get when you are the only people in a campsite as we were that night.

Two lionesses in our camp

Even though every day is special and unique in its own way, there are definitely moments that stand out. Our favorite camp spot was the Ishasha River campsite. This beautiful shady spot right on the banks of the Ishasha River gave us the opportunity to spend several days living with a pod of hippos and learning about their lifestyle and habits. Every night after sunset we would listen as the entire pod traversed upriver against the current with relative ease to their favorite grazing spot, grunting and splashing all the way. Early in the morning before dawn's first light we would hear them again as they ran and floated back down river to their favorite pool to spend the day. 

Ishasha River Camp

Hippos in the Ishasha River

Ishasha River campsite was also a haven for insects which seemed to keep us in constant amazement as well as home to a pair of Cassin's Grey Flycatchers, relatively rare birds that we watched for hours catching butterflies and building their nest only to witness it get flooded by the rising river after a storm. Those little birds didn't let the flooded nest ruffle their feathers, instead they cleaned out the soggy grass and sticks and began construction again. Nature can be cruel but it's an easier pill to swallow than seeing the effect that man can have on animals. It was heartbreaking to see an injured hyena lying on the side of the road that had been hit by a vehicle struggling for its life and should be a lesson to all not to speed inside the park. On another occasion we met a lone hippo that had separated itself from its pod to nurture a large wound that had been inflicted by a poachers spear. We went back to check on the hippo a few days later and were happy to see that he was still in solitude and the wound seemed to be improving.

An insect that looks like a leaf in our camp

Cassin's Grey Flycatcher

Uncharted territory for us was the Semliki National NP which held us firmly in its grip for several days. Although the campsite was very basic it had everything we needed to enjoy life in the jungle. Various species of monkeys entertained us by swinging through the trees in the campsite while birds called out from all directions. The guided walks through the forest with our guide Tadeo were both beautiful and fascinating as we admired our surroundings and learned the intricacies of the forest ecosystem. 

Butterfly in Semliki National Park

The trip ended on a high by seeing the elusive Sitatunga in the Katonga Swamp. The sitatunga is an aquatic antelope that lives in papyrus swamps and is incredibly secretive making it hard to see. We had a brief moment to admire this creature before it disappeared deep into the reeds. Mystical.

Looking for Sitatunga in Katonga

Our trip made us fall deeper in love with the Queen Elizabeth NP and its surrounding areas like Pelican Point and the Exlplosion Crater Drive and eager to revisit Semliki National Park to explore the forest more extensively. With every trip that we take we learn of more places of interest from safari guides and UWA staff that we meet along the way so instead of getting shorter, our list seems to get longer. Uganda has so much to offer and with each journey take we understand more why Sir Winston Churchill called Uganda the Pearl of Africa.

Uganda - The Pearl of Africa

Ishasha Wilderness Camp - A New Look

Since 2005 the Ishasha Wilderness Camp has held a reputation as an exclusive tented camp in a remote setting offering comfort, friendly service and first-rate food.  Over the last six months the camp has transformed itself with an impressive new look that pampers the safari soul.

The camp is set on the banks of the Ntungwe River in the southern Ishasha sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park.  We leave our safari vehicle in the parking lot and follow a footpath under the cool shade of large trees, cross a wooden bridge and enter a large open air lounge and dining area.  The thatch roof structure is designed with three open sides, providing a full view out over the Ntungwe River and the surrounding area.  Large inviting sofas surround rustic tree trunk coffee tables and hanging from the ceiling at various heights are gourds of all different shapes and sizes that illuminate the area during the evening.  The dining area consists of one large slab table and a number of smaller tables catering for both large groups and intimate dining.  There is a fully stocked bar offering spirits, cold beer, sodas, coffee and tea all available throughout the day. A central charging station for guests is provided with universal adapters for your electronics.

A few steps away and down from the main dining/lounge area there is a terrace beside the river’s edge where large umbrellas provide shade during the day.  The terrace is a great place to sit to watch the elephants come down to the river for a drink and sometimes you’ll be lucky to see them cooling off and playing in the river.  This section of river is also home to a resident hippo “Henry” who likes to make his appearances when you least expect them, popping up grunting and puffing, leaving you scanning the river waiting for his next performance.

Along the river’s edge are 10 large tented rooms.  They have been constructed with rustic eucalyptus poles to provide a rigid structure and finished with canvas walls and netting which allows for plenty of light and fresh air. Outside the front of the tent there’s a covered area with two comfortable chairs and a table providing a private place to relax and enjoy the view.  Unlike most conventional tents, there is no zipper to deal with as you enter through a full sized door. Inside the décor displays African simplicity at its best and does not detract from the views and the feeling of being in the wilderness.  The king size bed is the center piece with a mosquito net suspended above.  There are side tables with lamps either side of the bed and two carved chests at the foot.  A writing table sits off to one side and has a beautiful view of the river.  The tent ceiling is draped with white cotton providing a lavish colonial feel.   There are full length curtains on all sides that can be drawn for complete privacy. The tents come equipped with flashlights and a safe.

The ensuite bathroom is as generous with space as the bedroom. There is a sink area, a shower with a large rain shower head a toilet and plenty of counter space to spread out your personal belongings. Cold water is always available and hot bush showers
are provided

upon request and take 10 minutes or less to arrive.

As the sun starts to slip away for the day we make our way to the riverside terrace to enjoy a sundowner while sitting around the fire.  Listening to the fire crackle and snap, the gentle babble of the Ntungwe River and the occasional noise from Henry, we reminisce about our adventures.  In the middle of a conversation the sound of drums resonates through the camp, this is the call to dinner.  We make our way to our table for two set outside on the grass.  We sit down to dinner under a ceiling of stars.  The waiter arrives at our table to introduce us to the night’s menu.  Dinner is a four course meal starting with bajias, followed by cumin and pumpkin soup.  The main course is a pork chop drizzled with hollandaise sauce served with potatoes and a medley of vegetables.  Just when we thought we couldn’t eat another morsel of food, a date pudding was put before us.  The food was delicious.  After dinner we are drawn back to the fire for a nightcap before retiring to our tents for the night.

Self admitted I am not a morning person; however the arranged wakeup call was so nice.  A voice in the darkness broke our sleep with a friendly “good morning” from one of the staff who left a tray of hot coffee and biscuits on the table outside.  After sipping on the coffee and slowly waking up, we left the camp for a game drive.

Ishasha is renowned for its most famous residents the tree climbing lions, however there is much more to Ishasha than the lions.  A short drive from camp is a Ugandan Kob breeding ground.  We stop and scan the area and spotted a hyena skulking through the grass creating a stir amongst the Kob.  What a treat! Ishasha is made up of riverine forests and grasslands scattered with Acacia and Fig trees and is home to the only Topi found in QENP as well as many other savannah animals. The Ishasha River to the west forms the border of the Democratic Republic of Congo and is where you will find hippos.   There was no shortage of game on our morning drive and our hunger for breakfast was calling us back to the camp.  We were welcomed back and served a fully cooked breakfast to order along with juice, tea, coffee, fruit and cereal.  The homemade bread made for great toast with various spreads available.

After breakfast we sat under the shade of an umbrella next to the river on the lower terrace and watched the river flow by on its way to Lake Edward.  While relaxing we were alerted by one of the staff that the elephants had arrived.  To our joy, across the river was a herd of elephants drinking.  This made for quite an exciting spectacle.  After several hours of enjoying the serenity, it was lunchtime.  We were served a plate of cold meats accompanied by a potato, chickpea and olive salad with freshly baked bread rolls.  Once again the food doesn’t disappoint and to top it off we even squeezed in a chocolate brownie for dessert.

We decide to go for a late afternoon drive to the Lake Edward Flats, an area renowned for numerous species of birds including the shoebill.  It is not a long drive to reach this wide open space with wetlands on the far side and Lake Edward beyond.  There are different species of birds everywhere along with the occasional warthog and a large herd of buffalo. Several buffalo were enjoying the wallows of mud that are spread out across the flats and surprisingly are not eager to move as we approach, giving us a great opportunity for viewing and photographing them.  The beauty of this place really started to come through as the sun started to set in the sky casting beautiful light across the flats.  The area was so magical it was with great reluctance that we had to leave arriving back to camp just before dark.  Again we enjoyed a great evening of fire, conversation, good food and service on the Ntungwe River.  If you do visit this wonderful camp take time to look for Henry the hippo and visit the beautiful Lake Edward Flats and you never know you may even bump in to a leopard!

Given the remoteness of the Isahasa Wilderness Camp they are fully equipped with solar power providing lighting throughout the camp, along the walkways and within the tents.  The lodge also implements a number of other eco practices besides lighting such as new low water volume flushing toilets and ceramic refillable soap, shampoo and conditioner containers in the bathrooms. The camp is very conscious of their environment and does their best to make as little impact on it as possible.

Upon signing the guest book I came across a visitors comment that I felt summed up the Ishasha Wilderness Camp perfectly “This is one of the best real Africa camps in Uganda”.

Let it be known that on our way out of the Ishasha sector we drove the southern circuit in search of tree climbing lions and were delighted to find two lionesses with swollen bellies full of food lounging in a giant fig tree.  What an end to a brilliant stay at Ishasha Wilderness Camp!

Booking Information 
Exclusive Camps and Lodges (G&C Tours Ltd)
reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
Ph: +256 414 321 479
Mobile: +256 772 721 155
www.ugandaexclusivecamps.com

Mud Bath Lake Edward Style

While visiting Ishasha, the southern sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park we ventured to the Lake Edward Flats, an opportunity best taken during the dry season.  The area is known to birders as there are numerous species that can be checked off your list in a very short amount of time.  As the name suggests it's flat and scattered about are several mud wallows with buffalo lazing in them.  What surprised us most was how unwilling the buffalo were to move as we approached.  I suppose it was hot and they were cool and comfortable.   We explored the area thoroughly, repeatedly stopping and scanning for the Shoebill, which continued to elude us.  What we were about to experience ranks high on the list of animal encounters in Africa for both of us.  The sun was setting and it was time that we should be moving on to get back to our camp before darkness was upon us.  As we were driving through the flats, we drove towards a mud wallow, which appeared to be just that, a mud wallow but as we came closer it exploded and gave both of us a fright.  What we saw, neither of us could believe.  A Cape Buffalo who had been almost fully submerged in the mud was standing next to his vacated premises staring at us wondering why we disturbed his mud bath.  We have never seen anything like it, the thick gray mud clinging to nearly every inch of his body.  His annoyance grew and he decided to run off in anger.  Unfortunately for him there was nowhere to hide.  As he ran as fast as he could through the flats we marvelled at this massive creature that was camouflaged in a mud bath, if he hadn't gotten annoyed we would have never known he was there.  Africa never ceases to amaze us!

Tree Climbing Lions of Ishasha

In the southern sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park lies the Ishasha sector. For many years we have wanted to visit for the main purpose of seeing the most famous residents, tree climbing lions.  It is completely unknown why the lions of this area climb up into giant fig and acacia tree's to hang around.  The lions of Ishasha have been climbing the trees for decades and have passed the adaptation down from generation to generation. Whether they are still climbing for the same reason as when they started, again no one knows.

It was along the Fig Tree Track that we rounded a bend in the road and on the right was a huge fig tree with two lionesses draped over its large thick limbs. We parked under the tree to observe them in this rare scene, they periodically gazed down at us and then back out over the horizon. In the heat of the day and with stomachs swollen full of food they occasionally repositioned themselves in the tree.  It was truly an amazing sight to behold!

Ishasha is renowned for tree climbing lions but we were pleasantly surprised that there is more to this area of Queen Elizabeth National Park than the lions.  The landscape of Ishasha is made up of riverine forests and savannah grasslands and has a real feeling of remoteness.  Ishasha is home to the only Topi found in QENP as well as many other savannah animals. The Ishasha River to the west forms the border to the Democratic Republic of Congo and is where you will find hippos.  The Ishasha sector of QENP should not be missed, it offers a superb and unforgettable safari experience!

Tree Climbing Lions of Ishasha - Photo Gallery

View from under the tree

An Epic Road Trip Concludes

After 21 days on the road and approximately 3000 km/1865 miles travelled, our epic journey through Uganda and Rwanda has concluded.  We have seen a vast amount which has created long lasting memories.  As with any journey, naturally there are highlights, here are a few.

	Tracking Mountain Gorillas The opportunity to come face to face with a group of mountain gorillas in their natural habitat is simply magical.  It is difficult to describe what a special experience it is and we will never forget the time that we spent with the Susa group in the Virunga Mountain Range of Rwanda.
	Tree Climbing Lions of Ishasha It has long been a dream to see the tree climbing lions of Ishasha.  We had plans to visit 4 years ago but had to cancel due to instability in the nearby Democratic Republic of Congo resulting in the area being considered unsafe to visit.  We were excited to visit the area on this trip and on our second day in the Ishasha sector of QENP we rounded a corner to see 2 lionesses draped in a large fig tree, we were so happy to realize a dream!
	Lake Kivu A previously unknown part of the world to us, Lake Kivu is an impressive place.  The lake lies in the East Albertine Rift Valley and is surrounded by mountains.  The area is very peaceful, relaxing and is a perfect place to chill out and unwind while gazing across to the Democratic Republic of Congo while wondering what mysteries it holds.
	Ugandan Back-Roads We used to spend our weekends in Canada discovering back-roads and 4x4 tracks.  We prefer the road less travelled and getting off the highways so winding through the mountains of Uganda from Buhoma to Lake Bunyonyi was an experience to remember.
	Lake Bunyonyi Crayfish Lake Bunyonyi is the deepest crater lake in Uganda and is known for it's freshwater crayfish.  We bought a bucket full of live crayfish from a local fisherman and cooked them up at our camp.  We feasted on the local delicacy, peeling and eating every morsel of their delicious meat.