Mweya Safari Lodge

An iconic landmark since the 1950’s, Mweya Safari Lodge is perched atop a hill on the Mweya peninsula and offers luxury accommodation in the heart of Queen Elizabeth National Park.  As you approach the lodge from the road below, it’s completely unassuming, blending into the natural vegetation around it.  Once inside the lodge, opulence and mesmerizing views surround you.  The ambiance of the place takes you back in time and makes you feel like an early explorer from a bygone era.

Mweya Safari Lodge Lobby

On arrival to Mweya Safari Lodge, the lobby gives you an overall  feel for the place.  Large, spacious and furnished with leather chairs, sofas and safari decor, it’s lavish and inviting.  On the opposite end of the main entrance is a large picture window that draws you closer to the view over Lake Edward and Katwe town.  You can see part of the Mweya peninsula as well, dotted with elephant, hippos and buffalo.  Cold juice and a cool towel welcome every guest on arrival.  The main lodge of Mweya is sprawling and is well positioned great views no matter where you are.

Inside a luxury tent

Mweya Safari Lodge offers various accommodation options ranging from 32 standard rooms, 12 deluxe rooms with air conditioning, 2 suites, 2 standard and 2 luxury safari tents and several cottages.  Standard and deluxe ensuite rooms are tastefully decorated in a safari theme and deliver comfort all around.  Most of the rooms at Mweya Safari Lodge look out over the Kazinga channel so you can enjoy great views as you relax on your private veranda.  Mweya Safari Lodge has 4 different cottages which are perfect for families or those wanting more space, privacy and amenities.  For those seeking the ultimate luxury safari experience, the safari tents are sure not to disappoint and are thoughtfully placed to give guests the utmost privacy.  Each tent has its own large wooden veranda, a perfect place to relax in privacy as you watch the animals on the far bank of the Kazinga Channel as they wander down to the waterside for a drink.  With plenty of vegetation around the tents, there is no shortage of birdlife flitting about. 

Inside a luxury tent

Inside the air conditioned luxury tent there is plenty of space.  A writing desk sits in one corner with a basket overflowing with fresh fruit, tea and coffee facilities and a hidden bar fridge.  In the other corner of the tent is a cozy sitting area with sofa, chair and coffee table.  In the middle of the tent, a king sized bed rests underneath a whirring ceiling fan.  At the head of the bed is a partition wall which separates the main part of the tent from a private closet area with dressing room, dressing table, mirror, hair dryer and a safe.  The modern bathroom is situated at the back of the tent.  As you enter the bathroom  there is a spacious counter, double sinks and full over counter mirror.  To the left is a large walk in shower and to the right a toilet and bidet.  Overall the tent has ample space and every creature comfort has been thought of.  What makes the tents so special is the mesh windows that allow you to enjoy all the sounds of the park from inside the comfort of your tent.  Lie in bed and hear lions roar, hippos grunt and hyena cackle. 

The outside of the main lodge

Mweya Safari Lodge is in the middle of a wildlife setting making escorts essential when returning to your room at night after dinner.  Golf carts and driver get you back to the comfort of your room safely and swiftly.  On our first night at the lodge before turning in for the night, we were relaxing on our veranda when we heard a rustling in the bushes next to us.  We sat wondering what was making the noise in the bushes and to our surprise, a hippo emerged and walked calmly in front of our veranda a mere few metres from where we sat.  We were thrilled as neither of us had ever been that close to a hippo, it was an amazing experience and as quickly as it began, it ended when the hippo disappeared into the bushes on the other side of our tent.  We sat in awe.  Not long after that, we heard the breaking of branches and soon discovered it was seven elephants metres from where we sat.  We sat gazing at them as they ate to their hearts content, and then moved on.  Mweya Safari Lodge may offer all the creature comforts, but it does so while keeping you amongst wildlife.

The Tembo Bar is in a corner of the main lodge and has a nice veranda that wraps around three sides of the bar.  It's a perfect place to enjoy a cold drink and gaze at the views.  It has a wonderful atmosphere with various seating options.  Leather furniture and safari decor abound while soft music plays in the background.  With WiFi and panoramic views of Lake Edward and the Kazinga Channel, the Tembo Bar is an excellent place to sit any time of the day.  The bar is well stocked with an extensive wine list, champagne and spirits as well as espressos and cappuccinos.  The beer and soda are always icy cold to quench your thirst.  The bar staff are friendly and always willing to have a chat in between their drink mixing and glass polishing.  The atmosphere in the Tembo Bar throws you right back to the exploration era, so much so that you feel like an explorer yourself. 

Mweya Safari Lodge with the boat launch below

The Kazinga Restaurant is where meals are served at Mweya Safari Lodge.  The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating.  The outdoor seating is nice for those looking to take in the view or to enjoy the vast birdlife around the lodge.  Be careful though, the weaver birds are sneaky and love to steal a nibble from your food and drink from your milk jug.  They are entertaining to watch to say the least, but with time have become brave around humans.  For me, they are part of the charm of mealtime on the terrace at Mweya Safari Lodge.  The restaurant serves meals both a la carte and buffet style depending on the occupancy at the time.  Both options offer a variety of cuisine from vegetarian, Indian, Continental and local Ugandan dishes.  On a busy night, there is a nice buzz in the dining room, people chatting, laughing and enjoying the end of a day on safari in Africa.  BBQ dinners and pasta evenings  give an extra special dining experience and coincide with traditional singing and dancing.  Once the sun goes down, the lawn outside of the Tembo Bar comes alive with people from the surrounding villages traditionally dressed.  The songs and dances they perform are filled with local legend and storytelling accompanied by the deep rhythms of African drums.  Guests can relish in the entertainment from the veranda of the bar before heading to the dining room for dinner.  On the BBQ evenings, the chefs set up outside the dining room near the pool with their charcoal grills where they grill and roast an assortment of meat and vegetables.  Here you can fill your plate with delicious grilled food before heading inside to compliment it with salads. During the pasta evenings a live cooking station is set up in the dining room where a chef is on hand to prepare your pasta dish with the fresh pasta and ingredients that you have chosen.    

For guests looking for an exclusive dining experience during their stay at Mweya Safari Lodge,  the bush breakfast and dinner were designed for this purpose.  After an early morning game drive, when your stomach is starting to rumble, rather than going back to the lodge for breakfast, a full buffet breakfast is served in a seclusive location several kilometres away from the lodge.  Tables, chairs and a team of chefs and waiters transform the bush into your own private dining area with a view overlooking the channel.   Bush dinners are a magical experience.  Late in the day, when the sun is dropping in the sky, head out into the bush for a sundowner overlooking Lake Edward.  Once the sun sets and the sky begins to darken, your bush dining room comes alive.  Lanterns light up the area beyond which is complete darkness.  Sitting under a ceiling of stars, dinner is served while a bush campfire burns not far away.  Frogs, crickets, nightjars, lions, hyenas and elephants are all part of the soundtrack.  This is an experience of a lifetime, one that will most likely stand out as a highlight of your safari.

The pool

One of the highlights of Mweya Safari Lodge is the beautiful swimming pool adjacent to the restaurant.  Its crystal blue water is inviting, especially on a hot day.  The pool is a lovely place to stay cool in the heat of the African sun while enjoying  the view over the Kazinga Channel.  Snacks and ice cream are also available at the Kazinga Pool bar.  Next to the pool a wooden deck with chaise loungers and large patio umbrellas make for a nice place to laze around. 

Mweya Safari Lodge has a gift shop near the lobby that is open daily.  It offers local crafts and curios for sale alongside books, maps, jewelry, souvenir shirts and caps for you to commemorate your stay at the lodge. The gift shop also sells a few essentials in case you have run out or forgotten something.

Other facilities at Mweya Safari Lodge include a business center for those that need to tend to work while on the road.  The centre offers a quiet atmosphere with internet access and computer facilities.  If you're looking for somewhere unique to host a workshop or conference, the lodge has amenities including a fully equipped conference room.  The health club and spa is a quiet place to get your daily dose of exercise.  If you are wanting a little pampering, they offer massage as well as other beauty treatments.   

Boat trip on the Kazinga Channel

Recently, Mweya Safari Lodge has introduced hot air ballooning which offers visitors a whole new way to experience their safari.  In partnership with Balloon Tours Uganda, (www.ugandaballoonsafari.com) balloon flights lift off just before sunrise over the savannah grasslands of the Kasenyi area of Queen Elizabeth National Park.  Quietly drifting over the Kasenyi plains you will be treated to a beautiful sunrise and the start of a new day in Africa.  It’s an incredible experience.  Upon landing, the lodge serves up a delectable bush breakfast to conclude your balloon safari. Information and bookings can be made through Mweya Safari Lodge.

Mweya Safari Lodge is a popular choice among many travelers.  The location of the lodge is unbeatable as it is inside the park and boasts incredible views.  The staff at the lodge are helpful, friendly and strive to make every aspect of your stay an enjoyable one.  If you enjoy comfort, ambience and outstanding views, then Mweya Safari Lodge should be your choice for your safari in Queen Elizabeth National Park.

For more information and reservations:

Marasa Central Reservations
Plot 96-98, 5TH Street Industrial Area
P.O. Box 22827
Kampala,
Ph:       +256  31 2260260/1
Ph:       +256  41 4255992

reservations@marasa.net
www.marasa.net

Lodge Tel
+ 256 39 2796773
+ 256 41 4340054

Mihingo Lodge

Mihingo Main Lodge

I was falling into a deep sleep when a noise woke me.  I’d thought I had heard the whinny of a zebra, but much to my surprise, I was at home in Kampala and it wasn’t a zebra I had heard.  Sigh, clearly my mind was still at Mihingo Lodge and rightfully so as it’s a spectacular place to be.  Perched high atop a rocky outcropping on the fringes of Lake Mburo National Park, Mihingo Lodge offers commanding views over the park.  Nestled into the bush, the lodge melts into the landscape and you feel you have become a part of the nature around you as Vervet monkeys chatter, cicadas buzz and Ross’s turacos engage in duets of comical cackling.  The lodge may be secluded but luxury is not spared here, Mihingo Lodge offers the finest that the bush has to offer.

The centrepiece of Mihingo is the main lodge, dining and bar area, a superb place to relax and take it all in.  With no Wi-Fi and no reminders of the daily grind, you can truly escape, here and soak up the magic of Mihingo.  Whether it is on a chaise lounge next to the infinity pool, on an oversized bean bag in the top of the tower that boasts 360 degree views or with a drink in the bar, the view never gets boring.  It’s better than any DVD or television documentary I’ve ever seen.  This is live view and it’s wonderful!  At times it’s hard to even imagine that the hustle and bustle of Kampala is just four hours away, as it feels like light years.

The view of Lake Mburo NP from the main lodge overlooking the infinity pool

In the bar, a large built in adobe style sofa curves around the granite rock protruding from the wall.  Books and other informational materials are piled up on a ledge while paraffin lanterns glow in little alcoves on the wall.  Head barman Michael will greet you with his big smile and serve you your drink of choice from the fully stocked bar.  Every evening the bar serves pre dinner nibbles during which time, you will be invited to join in one of the lodges most unique experiences, the opportunity to observe thick-tailed Gallagos commonly known as Bush Babies, in their natural environment.  Over the years, the Bush Babies have grown accustomed to guests and on most evenings visit the Bush Baby platform below the bar.  These fascinating little primates look like a curious combination of species and are just too cute for words.  As they move about, Mugisha who has been interacting with them for over 7 years will answer all your questions.  As he gives his answers, it’s obvious he has a deep passion for these quirky little creatures.  After eating a couple of banana pieces, the bush babies disappear back into the trees to forage for food during the night.

The bar and lounge area

A bush baby

Meals are served in the dining area located in between the bar and the lounge. The dining room overlooks a watering hole and salt lick so is not only a place to enjoy good food, but the wildlife and view as well. Mihingo Lodge’s delectable cuisine has been developed mostly from family recipes.  A fusion of flavours incorporating fresh produce and herbs makes the meals healthy and satisfying. An aquaponic garden on the property ensures that the food you eat if of the utmost freshness often times being picked only hours before and you can taste the difference.  Breakfast is a selection of fresh fruit, juice, cereal, muesli and yogurt.  Eggs are cooked to order and served with the sides of your choice (bacon, sausages, mushrooms, tomatoes and beans) alongside homemade toast.  Lunches and dinners are both three course meals.  Grilled aubergines, smoked Nile Perch, chilled avocado soup, beef vindaloo, chicken with tarragon, pan fried beef fillet, mango cream, chocolate brownie and key lime pie are some of the fabulous dishes we had during our stay.  Pair these with one of the wines from the wine list and you’re all set.  I really can’t overemphasize how good the food is at Mihingo Lodge, it was a highlight of our stay!  In the evenings a campfire is lit next to the dining area and is an exceptional place to sit out under the stars, let your dinner settle, have a night cap and listen to the hyenas whooping in the valley below.

A dining experience with a view

Mihingo Lodge consists of 12 luxury tented rooms on raised wooden decks under thatch roofs.  The large beige canvas bedroom has screened windows on all four sides for an open feeling and uninhibited views.  The spacious rooms are luxurious but they don’t scream pretentiousness, but rather gently whisper relax.  The rooms are tastefully decorated with leather furniture and local African crafts and fabrics.  Outside is a large partially covered veranda which has a daybed and a couple of chairs.  It’s inviting place to sit and gaze at the astonishing views.  Each of the tented rooms at Mihingo is unique and offers their own special view and experience.  There is plenty of space between the tented rooms so you can enjoy privacy and solitude.  Our first couple of nights were spent in Klipspringer (room 11) which was all about the sweeping views over the valley below and Lake Kacheera.  The room is situated next to large granite boulders that bulge out from the earth and sandwich a crevasse filled with water that attracts animals. The water filled crevice is completely covered by Nile cabbage and home to terrapins and a night time chorus of frogs.  On our first afternoon at Mihingo, our veranda turned into our own private viewing platform for an entire troop of monkeys getting up to their usual tomfoolery.  That night, the room lived up to its name “Klipspringer” when a family of 3 klipspringers ambled over the rocks, then tucked their legs underneath their bodies and lay down to spend the night there.  Not far from where they lay were two large waterbuck munching on the grass.  This is the kind of place that you really don’t want to go to sleep as you just might miss something.

Our tented room at Mihingo Lodge

Inside the tented room

Our last night was spent in Impala (room 10) which was more of a bush experience with its own private view of a salt lick.  As we relaxed with a book on the deck, impala, baboons, warthogs and bushbuck wandered to and from the lick. The tented rooms at Mihingo are extremely spacious and pleasant. The king sized bed is a comfortable place to lay your head at night and fall asleep listening to the night noises of the park.  Each room has a considerable sized ensuite bathroom with flushing toilet and alluring views that you can enjoy while you shower.

Mihingo Lodge has extended their accommodation options and is now offering self catering accommodation for groups and families in the Bush Camp.  The camp consists of one room with a double bed and ensuite solar hot water shower, 1 tent with a double bed, outdoor solar hot water shower and a long drop toilet and 1 tent designed for children with 4 single beds and outside shower and toilet.  Other facilities include a large sitting and dining room with veranda, fully equipped kitchen and a store room for food with solar powered chest fridge and chest freezer.  The camp is intended for groups to self cater their meals and drinks and access to the facilities of the lodge are not allowed.  However, activities offered by the lodge such as the horseback safaris, bike safaris and walking safaris can be booked by Bush Camp residents.  For more information on the camp or booking information, contact reservations@mihingolodge.com

Mihingo Lodge offers a variety of activities, more than can be taken in on a single visit, unless you want to extend your stay which I’m sure most every guest contemplates.  The watering hole and salt lick below the main lodge is engaging.  Animals wander in and out from the bushes into view to have a drink and a nibble on the salty soil.  If you want to get a closer look, a quick 15 minute walk from the lodge along a trail, you’ll find “The Hide”.  It’s a great spot to quietly sit for a while and observe the animals.  If you want to get even closer and don’t mind being in a small enclosure, venture a little further down the trail to “The Den”, a great spot for photographers.

Taking photographs inside "The Den"

Massage was an activity we couldn’t resist.  A short walk from the main lodge winds you through the giant boulders the lodge is built on, to a secluded room overlooking the park.  After a couple of days at Mihingo you wouldn’t think there would be any tension left, but the masseuse did seem to find a few lingering spots and gently massaged them away.  This is one massage room that doesn’t require a sound recording.  The breeze blew gently, birds chirped, and we relaxed.
After dinner a night drive is a great activity.  Either inside or outside of the park, it’s your best chance to see nocturnal animals such as owls, hyenas, leopards, white tail mongoose and nightjars.  The lodge has safari vehicles for hire that include a driver and guide.  The vehicle has open sides and spot lights to ensure your night drive is an unforgettable experience.

If you’re tired of being in a car, Mihingo Lodge offers a couple of unique safari experiences, horseback safaris and mountain biking safaris.  Horseback safaris are unique to Lake Mburo NP and are a great way to experience wildlife.  The animals are extremely relaxed around the horses which allow you to get close to them and often see some of the more timid ones up close such as eland.  Without the noise of a vehicle, you can really experience the sounds of nature.  We thoroughly enjoyed our horseback safari and as no previous experience on horses is required, anyone can participate.  The biking safaris will take you exploring the sandy paths around the lodge and riding alongside zebra, impala, warthog and other antelope.  This is great for people that are not comfortable on a horse, but still want to get out into nature.  As the terrain is not extreme, it's a good activity for the whole family.

Horseback Safari

Other activities offered by the lodge are walking safaris, cultural visits, game drives, kids bush courses and for running enthusiasts, a guided run through the community land.
Lake Mburo NP is reputed to be the best place in Uganda to see leopard with guests often spotting them on night game drives.  The leopard population does well in Lake Mburo NP due to the lack of competition from other predators.  Mihingo Lodge has recently started a leopard identification program to learn more about how many leopards are in the area and exactly where their territories are.  A book containing all the information collected to date is kept at the bar and vistor input is encouraged.  To date, 14 different leopards have been recorded and guests are welcome to share their photos along with information such as where the leopard was seen and the date.  It’s a fascinating book to flip through and includes photos, identifying characteristics and other information about each leopard.

A leopard seen on a night drive in Lake Mburo NP

Mihingo Lodge is committed to conservation and protecting the animals in and around the park.  Whenever humans and animals live in close proximity to each other, there is bound to be conflict.  During the time the lodge was built, an entire clan of spotted hyenas were poisoned by community members adjacent to the park.  This was the deciding factor that something should be done to reduce the conflict.  In 2008, the Mihingo Conservation and Community Development Foundation (MCCDF), a nonprofit organization was set up.  The primary goal of the MCCDF is to preserve wildlife outside of the park boundary and reduce the conflict between humans and animals.  They are accomplishing their goal through various means.  A compensation program for livestock killed by park predators has been very successful.  MCCDF also extends support to two primary schools in the area and have involved secondary students in the leopard identification program.  In the near future they are expanding their outreach to the community through various educational programs and the strengthening of animal enclosures where cattle are kept through the night so that animals are less vulnerable to predation.  The MCCDF is very aware that the more the local community is empowered and educated about the role of wildlife, the more eager they will be to protect and conserve it.  Iddy is the young woman in charge of the day to day operations and after chatting to her for only a couple of minutes her passion for everything wildlife and nature related is apparent.  She's extremely knowledgeable in her field and loves to share what she knows and answer questions.  She bubbles about the successes of MCCDF to date, but recognizes that it is an ongoing challenge, one she’s definitely up for.

A young zebra in Lake Mburo NP

Mihingo Lodge is without doubt a phenomenal place to stay, everything thing about it is chilled out luxury.  It is one of the few places in Uganda you actually be woken by the whinny of a zebra.  Don’t make the mistake of many and stay for only one night, stay longer.  Relax, stay awhile and immerse yourself in the magic of Mihingo.

Reservations & Booking Information
Mihingo Lodge
Tel. +256 752 410 509
Email: reservations@mihingolodge.com                          
Website: www.mihingolodge.com

Birds of Uganda – Book Review

Whether you are a visitor to Uganda or a resident, there is undoubtedly one aspect of the country that most people notice, and that’s the birds. Uganda boasts over 1000 species and with so many different birds flitting about, the identification process can be overwhelming, especially for a novice.  Field guides do offer a good reference, but nothing can beat a photograph for capturing all the little details and helping distinguish what just whizzed past you.

Birds of Uganda is full colour photographic book that is intended as a companion to your field guide. The book is a helpful reference as well as a lovely book to grace your coffee table.  Authors Quentin Meunier and Sherry McKelvie have invested a lot of passion into creating this book and that is clearly visible on each and every page.

 The 412-page book features 900 images of 280 different species of birds.  The basic concept of the book is to give an introduction to Uganda’s birdlife and is intended to be used alongside a field guide.  The book begins by outlining the major birding sites and wetland areas throughout Uganda.  Following that, each species featured in the book is represented by several photographs and captioned with brief descriptions.  The names of the birds are listed on each page in six languages, English, Latin, French, German, Spanish and Italian, with Japanese, Mandarin and Russian translations at the back of the book.  The index also includes the six languages which makes this such a great reference for so many people.

What I find so enjoyable about the photos, is that they showcase the birds in different situations - whether it be in flight, fishing, eating or a specific behaviour typical of that species. For me that’s what makes the book so spectacular.  If you’re in the field watching a bird long enough, you will experience what is on the pages of the book.  The images get close up and show detail that really will enrich your birding experience.  As a birder myself, I find Birds of Uganda to be a visual feast for the eyes.  Although I can identify many of the species in the book, I enjoy the moments that it has captured. The book is great to leaf through and indulgence in the sheer beauty of birds.   The next time I gazed through my binoculars, after looking through the book, I saw details about birds I had not noticed before.

Industry professionals are eagerly anticipating the book.  I spoke with Mr Sam Mugisha of BIC Tours, who caters especially for Japanese clients.  He is very excited about the release of the book and said “he is delighted to have a bird book on Ugandan birds that is aimed at increasing Bird Tourism in Uganda, and even more pleased that it will have the names of the birds in 9 languages, including Japanese, Mandarin and Russian!”  The book is a beautiful visual representation of the diversity that Uganda has to offer and will be something that many people will take pleasure in owning.

I'm not into birds you say? Well, there is no better starting point than this book!  Once you flip through the pages and see the vast array of colourful beauty of the avian species living around you, I can assure you that you may start to have a whole new inquisitive reaction as to what is making the branches on that tree in your garden move.  Or, what bird is singing that beautiful song at first light every morning. Birding is an activity that can be enjoyed by anyone, of any age, anywhere you go.

Birds of Uganda is a well presented book and will no doubt be in great demand.  It makes for a perfect gift, souvenir or a companion on your safari.  Books are expected to hit store shelves early in 2015 and will be available from most bookshops or can be ordered directly from Sherry +256 772 200 950

Bakers Lodge - Murchison Falls NP

For nearly a decade, Exclusive Camps and Lodges have been well-known for offering high quality lodges in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest NP (Buhoma Lodge) and Ishasha, Queen Elizabeth NP (Ishasha Wilderness Camp).  Recently, their newest addition has opened its doors in the ever popular Murchison Falls NP and it is no surprise that it boasts the same “wow” factor as the other lodges.  Situated on the south bank of the mighty Nile River, guests can sit at eye level to the river and watch as it gently flows by.  The proximity to the Nile River is what sets this lodge apart from all others.  All that lies between the lodge and one of the most famous rivers of all time is sprawling grass and large shade trees.  Bakers Lodge offers a Nile River experience like no other.

The lodge is named after the British explorer Samuel Baker, who is famous for his exploration of the Nile.  Late in the 1800’s Samuel and his wife Florence spent time around the area during their expedition of the river.  Samuel Baker was the first European to view and subsequently name the Murchison Falls.  In keeping with this theme, the decor of the lodge is reminiscent of the exploration era.  Wood, leather and canvas are abundant in the main lodge area which is a large wooden deck raised up off the ground.  There are several large sofas and chairs to relax in and enjoy the view, read a book or just to sit and contemplate just where you are in the world.  A large portion of the main lodge is covered with a thatch roof with an open air deck on each side.  The bar stocks wines and a selection of spirits as well as water, soda and local beer which is kept cold via their eco friendly solar powered energy system.

Accommodation at Bakers Lodge is individual cottages elevated off the ground.  The very spacious en-suite cottages have large netted windows on all sides for an open airy feeling.  Each cottage is positioned with consideration of privacy from others, has a wooden deck off the front and a view of the river, a great place to sip on your morning cup of coffee or tea.  The cottages are furnished with wooden furniture, a writing desk and chair, beds with side tables, lockable safe, and an open wardrobe for clothes and is lit with solar lighting.

The large netted windows on the front of the cottage roll up for an unobstructed view of the river.  The beds have been designed to sit up in comfortably to enjoy the view.  I sat on my bed for quite some time with my binoculars, enjoying the bird life and the view while listening to the grunts of hippos.  I felt like I was watching a large HDTV and had to pinch myself that what I was watching was real.  It was awesome!

The cottages are self contained with a large bathroom, flushing toilet and running water.  Double sinks sit on top of a spacious wooden table with a mirror hanging above.  The shower is open and faces the view so while you are washing off the dust of the day, you can revel in the amazing view.  Hot water in the bathroom is provided by a solar energy system.

Every evening, just before sunset a fire is lit between the main lodge and the river.  It’s a great place to sit with a cold drink, watch the last of the day light fade away, reflect on your day, watch the stars in the sky slowly come to life and cherish another day in Africa.  The campfire is a great place to interact with other guests and swap safari stories.  The ever attentive staff is never far away to take your drink orders so you don’t have to leave the magic and the ambiance of the fire.  Once dinner is ready, the staff show you to your table, top up your drinks and begin the dinner service.

The food at Bakers Lodge was nothing short of amazing.  All of the meals we had were delicious and plentiful.  We started our mornings with a wake up call at our cottage followed by a freshly brewed cup of coffee on our verandah.  As we sat and enjoyed the dawn of a new day, many species of birds were fishing and hunting in the nearby wetland next the river while agama lizards chased each other to protect their territory on the ground and in the trees around us.  Breakfast is served in the main lodge and cooked as per your order along with fresh fruit, cereal, cold meats and cheeses, coffee, tea and fresh juice served buffet style. We had our three course lunch al fresco in the shade of a large tree on the deck of the main lodge.  As the gentle breeze blew we enjoyed both the view and the food.  After some sundowners around the fire, we had a four course dinner under a blanket of stars on the deck.  As we savoured a salad course, soup course, main course and dessert, we talked about our day and made plans for the next while listening to the night sounds of crickets, frogs, hippos.  The dinner atmosphere at Bakers Lodge was magical and a perfect way to end a day.

Getting to Bakers Lodge, you have a choice of routes once you reach Masindi town which is 215 kilometres north of Kampala.  The most direct route is to enter Murchison Falls NP from the Kichumbanyobo gate which takes you through the south side of the park through the Kaniyo Pabidi forest.  A longer but more scenic route passes through Budongo forest before descending into the rift valley next to Lake Albert.  This route gets you to the lodge without entering the national park as Bakers Lodge sits just outside of the Bugungu gate.  The lodge is well marked with signposts at the entrance, so it’s easy to find.

Murchison Falls National Park is the largest park in Uganda and offers plenty of activities for visitors.  The park is home to elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, giraffe, hyena, jackal, hippos and the Nile crocodiles which are reputed to be “huge”.  The park is well known for its diverse bird population, including the most sought after and unique resident, the shoebill.

A variety of boat excursions can be done on the Nile river.  The waterfall cruise travels up the Nile River to the base of Murchison Falls which is a spectacular sight.  Along the way you can view many species of birds, mammals near the shore that are coming to the water to drink and crocodiles both in and out of the water.  The delta cruise travels down the Nile River to the Victoria Nile Delta where the bird life is prolific and is the best place to search for the shoebill.  If you’re ready for a fishing experience like none other, you can bait your hooks in anticipation for a mighty Nile Perch.  Fishing safaris with an experienced guide and equipment are a popular activity in the area.

All of the boat activities operate daily and can be arranged through Bakers Lodge which has its own fleet of boats and can pick you up from the lodge for the various excursions.  Special arrangements can also be made for breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks or sundowners on board. You can also make your safari more interesting by combining the boats and a safari drive.  Cruise down the Nile River to the delta by boat at sunrise to experience the area from the water and then return with a game drive through the Buligi area which offers a number of tracks and where wildlife abounds.

Chimpanzee trekking can be done in the nearby Budongo forest where you can observe chimpanzees in their natural habitat as well as other primates such a black and white colobus monkeys.  This gentle walk through the forest is an amazing way to experience the sounds of an equatorial tropical rainforest.

For me, the highlight of my stay at Bakers Lodge was the proximity to the river and the spectacular views of it from anywhere around lodge.  I loved the slightly elevated bird’s eye 180 degree river views from the wooden deck of the main lodge and from my cottage the front roll up floor to ceiling large window was pure indulgence.  Lying comfortably on the bed, gazing at the river and listening to the birds, every tension in my entire body melted away.

If you are planning a trip to Murchison Falls NP, throw yourself back into the time of exploration at Bakers Lodge.  Sit in luxury on the banks of the Nile River and imagine what it was like for Samuel Baker to discover this amazing part of Uganda.
For more information and reservations:
Uganda – Wild Frontiers Exclusive Camps & Lodges
PO Box 619, Entebbe, Uganda
Tel/Fax: +256 414 321 479
Mobile: +256 772 721 155
Email: reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
www.ugandaexclusivecamps.com

A Horseback Safari in Uganda

Riding through the savannah with zebra in the background

As an intrepid bush lover and safari enthusiast, the idea of experiencing my passion on horseback was extremely intriguing.  Mihingo Lodge is the only place in Uganda that offers horseback safaris in a national park so that is where this first time experience took place.


My husband and I are inexperienced riders and were unsure of how our backsides would fare on a long ride, so we started with a one hour safari in the late afternoon.  The stables are a short distance from Mihingo Lodge where we were spending a couple of nights.  When we arrived at the stables for our safari we were met by Joseph the stable manager.  Joseph showed us around the stables and he introduced us to all of the horses and ponies.   The stables and facilities were clean, organized and had a number of spacious paddocks for the horses to graze.

One of the horses in the stables

After we were acquainted with the facilities it was time to visit the tack room and get ready for our ride.  Trail saddles, stirrups, chaps and helmets are all provided for your guided safari. Riders should wear long pants, a strong pair of shoes and most importantly bring your sense of adventure.  All geared up we were ready to meet our horses.  I was riding Summersong and Kevin had his trusty steed Vallas.  Joseph gave us a few pointers and instruction about riding our horses and we were all set.

Inside the tack room

Ready for the safari

We left the stables and began our safari riding through the savannah.  I had been told that game and wildlife is extremely relaxed around horses allowing riders to get very close to them but some things need to be experienced to be fully understood.   Not only did we get very close to animals but what surprised me the most was their calmness.  We were able to maintain a normal volume of conversation and they didn’t flinch or seem bothered.  Our guides Joseph and Charles were very knowledgeable about the wildlife and their habitat. As we rode through the bush and grassland we came across many species including warthogs, zebra, eland, dwarf mongoose, impala and bush buck as well as various birds. Horseback safaris are not ideal for photography as your hands are needed on the reins and the constant movement is not conducive for photos.  Small manageable point and shoot cameras are ideal.  The whole experience is very relaxing and personal.  While sitting on your horse you can enjoy the scenery and make mental memories.
















Feeling confident after our first ride, we decided to go for a longer one in the morning.  This time we left the stables at 7:30am for a 4 hour ride that took us outside the park towards Lake Kacheera.  Animals were plentiful and the landscape and scenery was beautiful.  For those that have never been on a horseback safari it is a special experience.  Without the confines of a vehicle and a rumbling engine you can take in every sound and every movement.  The horses at Mihingo were relaxed and calm so there was never any fear of being taken on a sudden gallop.  Having no previous experience, I never felt worried or stressed.

After the rides, Mihingo lodge was a stunning place to have a swim in the infinity pool overlooking a waterhole, have a full body massage, enjoy gourmet food and take in a bit of Mihingo magic.  We thoroughly enjoyed our first horseback safari and didn’t suffer from any aches, pains or sore backsides.  We left only with plenty of memories and smiles on our faces.  It was definitely an adventure that we will never forget.
To enjoy a Mihingo horseback safari, no previous experience with horses is necessary.  They are fully equipped for adults and children and offer rides starting from 30 minutes to several hours as well as overnight trips, bush breakfasts and picnic lunches.

For Information & Bookings
http://www.mihingolodge.com
reservations@mihingolodge.com 
+256-752 410 509

Night Drive - Lake Mburo NP

It was the night of the supermoon and we had scheduled a night drive in Lake Mburo National Park.  Unknowingly, we were in for a super night!

We picked up our Uganda Wildlife Authority guide Lawrence just before sunset.  He had a large spotlight with him which wired directly to our car battery.  Lawrence decided to perch himself on the roof of the Land Rover so that he had a good vantage point.  We were all set and started driving towards the Research Track.  By this time the sun had set and darkness was setting in.  From inside the Land Rover we watched as Lawrence moved the spotlight quickly from left to right looking for animals.  It was Kevin that heard Lawrence say "leopard, stop!"  I was driving.  I quickly pressed on the brakes and started looking around "where?"  A male leopard was in front of us and just off of the road to the right.  We turned off the engine and watched as he walked through the grass towards a thicket.  For over 30 minutes we watched the leopard as he slowly made his way from thicket to thicket, pausing at each one to look around and survey his surroundings.  Eventually he walked off into the darkness leaving us with adrenaline pumped bodies and big grins.  Fantastic!!  This sighting was enough for me, I was so happy to have had such a good spotting of a leopard that I was prepared to head back to Mihingo lodge where we were staying and revel in our night drive experience.

As we drove back, we saw buffalo, zebras, a white tailed mongoose and a genet cat. We were not far from the  lodge when Lawrence asked us to turn onto a small track to look for hyena as he knew of the general location they hang around at night.  Close to the road, we saw a figure dart away from an anthill and into the thick bushes nearby.  We shone our lights and could see two eyes staring back at us.  As we crept the vehicle closer to the bush, we realized it was a leopard!!  Another one!  How exciting was this?!  Another male, this time never leaving the protection and cover of the bush.  We admired his beauty, his large golden eyes resembling giant glass marbles, his long whiskers and rosette patterned coat.  After about 30 minutes we decided to leave him and let him get back to his leopard business.  As we drove back to Mihingo, we giggled at our fortune of seeing two separate leopards on one night drive.

If you are visiting Lake Mburo National Park, I can highly recommend this exciting activity. Although there is no guarantee of seeing leopard, a guided night drive gives you the chance to experience the animals in their habitat at night as well as giving you an opportunity to spot nocturnal species.  For us, it was a super night!