Our Migration Safari, Masai Mara - Kenya

Several thousand wildebeest gathered on the bank of the Mara River, nervously milling around, pacing forward and backwards.  Slowly they moved closer to the rivers edge and then quickly retreated upon getting spooked by something in the water.  This cycle replayed over and over as the herd built up and the anticipation of a crossing heightened. Eventually two zebras without any hesitation marched into the muddy water and began to swim to the other side.  My heart raced.... will the others follow? Will the zebras survive? Phew, they made it, but the others didn’t follow.  The cycle started again and while we patiently waited we watched as crocodiles well camouflaged in the water swam closer into position.  After more than two hours of waiting, it came without warning that one wildebeest waded deeper and deeper into the river.  This time the others followed. Mayhem ensued!!

The start of the first river crossing we witnessed.

Driving through the Masa Mara National Reserve there were tens of thousands of wildebeest as far as the eye could see.  The migration was evident all around us, but what we really wanted to see was a river crossing.  I had no idea what to expect.  I had seen it on television many times but it didn’t prepare me for the real thing.  From the moment the first wildebeest entered the water and others followed, my heart raced. Soon after, I was overcome with emotion.  The sounds, the dust, the splashes, the cries, the chaos caused tears to flood down my face.  I found myself rooting for every animal to make it across even knowing that their death is life for the crocodiles.  I witnessed death before my eyes and it was hard.  The wildebeest driven by instinct, by life, by greener pastures.  No matter what I write here I can’t explain the power of witnessing this event.  I feel truly blessed for being able to witness it and recommend the opportunity to everyone that has the chance.  The migration truly is the greatest outdoor show on the planet!  The scene of a young wildebeest wandering on the banks after a crossing, looking and crying out for its mother, a lion dragging a young wildebeest it has just killed to the other members of its pride to eat, these scenes are real and a reminder of the circle of life.  Death is essential for life to carry on.  It is everything that the Great Migration is about.

The Mara River

A procession of wildebeest

River crossing

River crossing

River crossing

River crossing

River crossing

River crossing

A lioness dragging her wildebeest kill in the early morning after a river crossing

There was wildebeest as far as the eye could see across the plains of the Masai Mara

Over a hundred wildebeest taking shade under a tree in the heat of the midday sun

Wildebeest everywhere

A compilation video featuring three of the five river crossings that we were witness to.

It's Been Awhile!

A big thank you to all of our readers and followers.  We enjoy receiving your feedback about our posts as well as your emails and queries.  Please keep them coming.  We thought we would post to let you all know that we are still here and eager to share our travel and safari experiences with you.  We haven't posted anything in awhile because we've been busy organizing things for 2013.  We will be setting off on a 12 day safari around Uganda with guests from Canada very soon.  It is their first time to visit the continent of Africa so needless to say they are very excited and so are we to have the opportunity to show them around a beautiful country.  We have a second vehicle ready complete with roof top tent for our trip with them.  It is sure to be an amazing trip.  Besides road tripping in Uganda, we also have plans to visit Kenya, so stay tuned for more photos and safari stories from East Africa.

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Nairobi to Mombasa by Rail

White sandy beaches were on the brain, we wanted some sand in between our toes, smell the ocean and indulge in some fresh seafood, so Mombasa seemed to fit the bill.  Sure we could easily fly there but we opted for a more adventurous journey, to take the train from Nairobi to Mombasa operated by Rift Valley Railways (RVR) and often referred to as "The Lunatic Express".  The rail line has a lot of history and being that Kevin has an affection for train travel and had done this train journey in 1989 he was eager to do it again.  I had never been on a train so we were excited about our choice.

The rail line began construction in 1896 and was intended to connect the interiors of Uganda and Kenya to the coastal city of Mombasa.  The tracks, locomotives as well as a lot of skilled and unskilled labor to build the railway came from India.  Many Indians remained in Kenya and Uganda after the completion of the railway line largely contributing to the Indian communities in those countries today.  The building of the line took its share of lives as the working and living conditions were poor and many succumbed to diseases resulting in death.  Probably the most famous incident occurred in Tsavo in 1898 when two "man eating lions" stalked and killed approximately 130 workers.  The entire project to build the railway seemed to be such an enormous undertaking and at such a great cost that skeptics who doubted its economic worth endearingly starting referring to it as The Lunatic Express.  The entire project was completed in 1929 and is said to have opened up East Africa to the rest of the world.

Our journey began in Entebbe where we boarded a plane bound for Nairobi.  We arrived in Nairobi early in the morning and the train was only scheduled to leave the station at 7pm, so we had an entire day to explore Nairobi.  Our first stop was Giraffe Manor to have a  moment with the Rothschild Giraffe.  I love giraffes and ever since I had seen Giraffe Manor on a television program years earlier, I had wanted to visit.  To see those big black eyes with long luscious lashes so close was amazing and I didn't leave without getting my "kiss".  We continued our exploration of Nairobi with a visit to the Karen Blixen Museum.  Karen Blixen (1885–1962) is best known as the author of Out of Africa.  The museum is full of history and is definitely worth a visit.  By this time we were hungry for some lunch and relaxed for a couple of hours at the Talisman before making our way to the Nairobi Railway Station.

Getting to the station was an adventure in itself as we fought our way through the taxi park full of matatus, buses and people. A brick building came into sight, we had reached the Nairobi Railway Station. We entered the building and received our tickets for the journey.  With a little over an hour to wait in the station before the train was due to leave, we sat and watched the hustle bustle of it all.  Other passengers were arriving as well as vendors sending merchandise to the numerous towns en route.  We received the call to board the train and with great excitement we found our cabin.  Although the fan didn't work, no water came out of the water tap and the lights flickered, I was pleased with the beds as the bedding was clean and crisp.  There was a small closet for our personal belongings and clothes, a mirror and our bags conveniently fit underneath the bottom bunk bed.  I was equally impressed that on the stroke of 7, the train's whistle blew and we started to move away from the station.  As we watched from our window the lights of Nairobi grew further and further away.  In the hallway outside our cabin we could hear a large bell clanging, the dinner bell.  We left our cabin with all our valuables as the cabins do not lock from outside and headed for the dining car.  We were sat at a table for four and soon, two others joined us.  As we got to know each other the servers came around for drink orders and to serve food from huge dishes.  The scariest part was the soup course, the waitress carried a large pot of steaming hot soup and as the car lurched back and forth she balanced herself and the pot and didn't spill a drop.  The food was average, we were served chicken stew with rice and potatoes followed by fresh fruit.  As we sat in the dining car I wondered what the atmosphere and service was like back in its day knowing the reputation of white glove service with fine silverware.  After dinner we returned to our cabin settled into our beds and were lulled to sleep by the gentle swaying of the train.  Periodically through the night I woke, sometimes as the train was slowing down to stop at villages along the tracks to unload and load passengers and goods and other times as it was hurling down the mountains feeling almost like a runaway train. I found the train to be a comfortable place to sleep.

At first light we were awake and peering out the window as it was the first opportunity to see the countryside since the first part of the journey was in the dark.  We passed small villages, roadside markets and watched children running towards the track as fast as they could to wave at the passing train.  Once again a bell could be heard in the hallway which indicated that breakfast was ready in the dining cart.  Juice, coffee, tea, fruit, eggs and toast were served as we gazed out the window fascinated by everything that we saw.  When we returned to our cabin after breakfast our bedding has been removed and the top bunk folded up leaving us a bench seat to sit on for the remainder of the trip.  The train was due to arrive at the Mombasa station at 10am but having read numerous reports of poor time keeping we really weren't sure when we would get there.

We travelled through fields and villages, under bridges and over rivers. At one point the train was running parallel to the highway next to it.  Eventually we got our first glimpse of the light blue waters that we were yearning for, the Indian Ocean.  This was an indication that we were not far from Mombasa.  Palm trees began to dot the landscape and the smell of the sea was in the air.  The train crossed the Nyali Bridge that connects the island of Mombasa to the mainland.  The settlements and markets were getting more concentrated and closer to the tracks.

At almost precisely 10am, the train pulled into the Mombasa station.  Impeccable timing, especially considering the number of stops that were made through the night.  We collected our personal belongings and disembarked the train having had a memorable and pleasant experience.  Now the only thing on our minds was where the beach and a cold cocktail was.  It was time to enjoy the coast for a couple of weeks before taking the train back to Nairobi for the trip home.

The train approaching Nairobi on the return journey

In the first week of March 2012 it was announced by Rift Valley Railways that they would be investing 23 million dollars to rehabilitate dilapidated sections of the main line from Kampala to Mombasa.  The project is due to start in July of 2012 and we are excited to see the changes that it brings.  Maybe one day we'll have the opportunity to simply board a train in Kampala bound for the ocean.

A FEW TIPS

If you're planning to take the train, there are a couple of things I recommend taking with you:

• Drinking water
• A wash cloth for freshening up
• Toilet paper in case they run out
• Snacks in the event that you really aren't wowed by the food
• A sense of adventure

Also note that there is no shower's on the train only toilets.  Do a little exploration of the toilet facilities as there are squat ones as well as conventional toilets.

Into the Wild at Kidepo Valley National Park

Standing in the vast openness, I stare up at the night sky and am in awe of what I see, more stars than I ever knew existed. The Milky Way is a smear in the sky. Looking up at this is the end to a perfect day in the African bush. There is a part of me that wants to keep this special place a secret but it wouldn’t be fair not to share what a wonderful place the Kidepo Valley National Park and my unforgettable stay at N’ga Moru Wilderness Camp.

I have wanted to visit Kidepo Valley NP for many years and finally had my chance. My husband and I packed up the beloved Land Rover and together with family from overseas we set off full of anticipation to find out what this park was all about. Tucked in North Eastern Uganda and bordering the Sudan and Kenya we knew that getting there was going to be part of the fun. An early start from Kampala had us out onto the open road heading north and before we knew it we were crossing over the Nile and the stunning Karuma Falls. We arrive in Gulu and take a break to have some lunch, a cold drink and stretch our legs before driving to Kitgum for an overnight stop at Fugly’s.  Fugly’s is a great spot to overnight to break up the journey. The drinks are cold, the food is good and there is a pool.  The next morning we woke up to the birds singing and the sun shining.  After a cup of coffee and some breakfast, we filled up with fuel and hit the road headed towards the Kidepo Valley.

The 2 ½ hour drive from Kitgum to the N’ga Moru Wilderness Camp was my favorite part of the drive. The graded murram road passes by numerous small villages with clusters of mud and thatch huts. Children lined the roadside waving, dancing and shouting out greetings. The road winds through the Keler and Loniyili mountain ranges and offers some amazing views. It’s not the kind of drive that you want to rush because there are so many places to stop and admire the scenery. 

Some people we met walking on the road in the pass
Mom has sheltered the baby on her back from the sun with a large gourd, a common practice in the north

As we dropped down into the Kidepo Valley, the way to the camp is clearly marked with signs. We arrive just before lunch and sit down with our hosts, the proprietors of N’ga Moru and Fugly’s, Patrick and Lyn.  They are always welcoming and a joy to sit and chat with and are full of information about the park and surrounding area.  It doesn't take long to realize that they love the African bush and they revel in the joy of sharing it with their guests.  Over some nice food and great company we periodically gaze out across the valley to admire the Morungule Mountains in the distance.

The camp sits on 98 acres on the border of the park. N’ga Moru means “The Place of Rocks” and just a few minutes into our late afternoon drive, I soon understand that the name is appropriate. We explore the area around the wilderness camp and there is plenty of game on the property and the views over the valley are outstanding. Kidpeo is so remote, unspoilt and pristine, you truly feel like you are in one of the last great wildernesses. 

On Safari

Our accommodation is a large luxury canvas tent tucked under a thatched roof with a large toilet and shower ensuite. The beauty of the tents is that there is no need for mosquito nets; essentially you are sleeping in a giant net. Keeping the flaps of the tent open allows for lots of fresh air and the sounds of park night-life. Next to the tent under the thatch roof is a veranda with a couple of safari chairs that face the valley, a perfect spot to sit and take it all in. 

Our tent under thatch roof with stunning views over the valley

At the end of every day you’ll find a fire ablaze in the large fire pit encircled by chairs.  What a perfect place to sit down enjoy the sunset over the mountains. With a cold drink in hand there isn’t anything more I could ask for, a stunning location, great company and a beautiful African sunset. 

After dinner Patrick takes us out on a night drive. After about 10 minutes of driving through the darkness waving our floodlights back and forth, we heard a large noise in the bushes, an elephant not far off the road. What a fantastic sighting, but the best was yet to come! I was sharing the back seat of the open air vehicle with a friend and we could hear a loud puffing noise coming from behind us. We shone our lights around to where the noise is coming from and see an extremely large puff adder; it was easily six feet long.  It was the largest puff adder that any of us had ever seen. We sat in silence as it moved off the road and disappeared into the bush with all its grace and beauty, marveling at the pattern of its skin. I am not a big fan of snakes, but do think they are beautiful to admire from a distance.  To witness this was a truly amazing sight!!

In the morning, we were woken by the light just in time to see a giant orange ball emerge from behind the mountains and flood the valley with daylight. Another day begins; the only question is what it will hold. After some breakfast, we’re off for a game drive in the park.  It is a 10 minute drive to the Katarum Gate where we enter KVNP. Immediately we see a rock hyrax scurrying along the cliffs nearby. The drives are beautiful and there’s lots to see including a herd of buffalo which is rumored to be the largest standing herd in East Africa. The buffalo are on the move and it’s incredible to watch. There are also elephants, lion, zebra, giraffe, warthogs, crocodiles, oribi, waterbuck, bushbuck, reedbuck and numerous species of birds for us to enjoy. There is so much more I can tell you about this place and the three days that we spent there, but the best is to go and discover it for yourself, you won’t be disappointed. N’ga Moru is a real bush experience in one of the most beautiful and remote parks in East Africa, Kidepo Valley National Park. 

N’ga Moru Wilderness Camp

Website: www.ngamoru.com

Mobile: +256 754 500555

Email:ngamoruwildernesscamp@gmail.com.

Elephant in Kidepo Valley National Park