Ishasha Wilderness Camp - A New Look

Since 2005 the Ishasha Wilderness Camp has held a reputation as an exclusive tented camp in a remote setting offering comfort, friendly service and first-rate food.  Over the last six months the camp has transformed itself with an impressive new look that pampers the safari soul.

The camp is set on the banks of the Ntungwe River in the southern Ishasha sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park.  We leave our safari vehicle in the parking lot and follow a footpath under the cool shade of large trees, cross a wooden bridge and enter a large open air lounge and dining area.  The thatch roof structure is designed with three open sides, providing a full view out over the Ntungwe River and the surrounding area.  Large inviting sofas surround rustic tree trunk coffee tables and hanging from the ceiling at various heights are gourds of all different shapes and sizes that illuminate the area during the evening.  The dining area consists of one large slab table and a number of smaller tables catering for both large groups and intimate dining.  There is a fully stocked bar offering spirits, cold beer, sodas, coffee and tea all available throughout the day. A central charging station for guests is provided with universal adapters for your electronics.

A few steps away and down from the main dining/lounge area there is a terrace beside the river’s edge where large umbrellas provide shade during the day.  The terrace is a great place to sit to watch the elephants come down to the river for a drink and sometimes you’ll be lucky to see them cooling off and playing in the river.  This section of river is also home to a resident hippo “Henry” who likes to make his appearances when you least expect them, popping up grunting and puffing, leaving you scanning the river waiting for his next performance.

Along the river’s edge are 10 large tented rooms.  They have been constructed with rustic eucalyptus poles to provide a rigid structure and finished with canvas walls and netting which allows for plenty of light and fresh air. Outside the front of the tent there’s a covered area with two comfortable chairs and a table providing a private place to relax and enjoy the view.  Unlike most conventional tents, there is no zipper to deal with as you enter through a full sized door. Inside the décor displays African simplicity at its best and does not detract from the views and the feeling of being in the wilderness.  The king size bed is the center piece with a mosquito net suspended above.  There are side tables with lamps either side of the bed and two carved chests at the foot.  A writing table sits off to one side and has a beautiful view of the river.  The tent ceiling is draped with white cotton providing a lavish colonial feel.   There are full length curtains on all sides that can be drawn for complete privacy. The tents come equipped with flashlights and a safe.

The ensuite bathroom is as generous with space as the bedroom. There is a sink area, a shower with a large rain shower head a toilet and plenty of counter space to spread out your personal belongings. Cold water is always available and hot bush showers
are provided

upon request and take 10 minutes or less to arrive.

As the sun starts to slip away for the day we make our way to the riverside terrace to enjoy a sundowner while sitting around the fire.  Listening to the fire crackle and snap, the gentle babble of the Ntungwe River and the occasional noise from Henry, we reminisce about our adventures.  In the middle of a conversation the sound of drums resonates through the camp, this is the call to dinner.  We make our way to our table for two set outside on the grass.  We sit down to dinner under a ceiling of stars.  The waiter arrives at our table to introduce us to the night’s menu.  Dinner is a four course meal starting with bajias, followed by cumin and pumpkin soup.  The main course is a pork chop drizzled with hollandaise sauce served with potatoes and a medley of vegetables.  Just when we thought we couldn’t eat another morsel of food, a date pudding was put before us.  The food was delicious.  After dinner we are drawn back to the fire for a nightcap before retiring to our tents for the night.

Self admitted I am not a morning person; however the arranged wakeup call was so nice.  A voice in the darkness broke our sleep with a friendly “good morning” from one of the staff who left a tray of hot coffee and biscuits on the table outside.  After sipping on the coffee and slowly waking up, we left the camp for a game drive.

Ishasha is renowned for its most famous residents the tree climbing lions, however there is much more to Ishasha than the lions.  A short drive from camp is a Ugandan Kob breeding ground.  We stop and scan the area and spotted a hyena skulking through the grass creating a stir amongst the Kob.  What a treat! Ishasha is made up of riverine forests and grasslands scattered with Acacia and Fig trees and is home to the only Topi found in QENP as well as many other savannah animals. The Ishasha River to the west forms the border of the Democratic Republic of Congo and is where you will find hippos.   There was no shortage of game on our morning drive and our hunger for breakfast was calling us back to the camp.  We were welcomed back and served a fully cooked breakfast to order along with juice, tea, coffee, fruit and cereal.  The homemade bread made for great toast with various spreads available.

After breakfast we sat under the shade of an umbrella next to the river on the lower terrace and watched the river flow by on its way to Lake Edward.  While relaxing we were alerted by one of the staff that the elephants had arrived.  To our joy, across the river was a herd of elephants drinking.  This made for quite an exciting spectacle.  After several hours of enjoying the serenity, it was lunchtime.  We were served a plate of cold meats accompanied by a potato, chickpea and olive salad with freshly baked bread rolls.  Once again the food doesn’t disappoint and to top it off we even squeezed in a chocolate brownie for dessert.

We decide to go for a late afternoon drive to the Lake Edward Flats, an area renowned for numerous species of birds including the shoebill.  It is not a long drive to reach this wide open space with wetlands on the far side and Lake Edward beyond.  There are different species of birds everywhere along with the occasional warthog and a large herd of buffalo. Several buffalo were enjoying the wallows of mud that are spread out across the flats and surprisingly are not eager to move as we approach, giving us a great opportunity for viewing and photographing them.  The beauty of this place really started to come through as the sun started to set in the sky casting beautiful light across the flats.  The area was so magical it was with great reluctance that we had to leave arriving back to camp just before dark.  Again we enjoyed a great evening of fire, conversation, good food and service on the Ntungwe River.  If you do visit this wonderful camp take time to look for Henry the hippo and visit the beautiful Lake Edward Flats and you never know you may even bump in to a leopard!

Given the remoteness of the Isahasa Wilderness Camp they are fully equipped with solar power providing lighting throughout the camp, along the walkways and within the tents.  The lodge also implements a number of other eco practices besides lighting such as new low water volume flushing toilets and ceramic refillable soap, shampoo and conditioner containers in the bathrooms. The camp is very conscious of their environment and does their best to make as little impact on it as possible.

Upon signing the guest book I came across a visitors comment that I felt summed up the Ishasha Wilderness Camp perfectly “This is one of the best real Africa camps in Uganda”.

Let it be known that on our way out of the Ishasha sector we drove the southern circuit in search of tree climbing lions and were delighted to find two lionesses with swollen bellies full of food lounging in a giant fig tree.  What an end to a brilliant stay at Ishasha Wilderness Camp!

Booking Information 
Exclusive Camps and Lodges (G&C Tours Ltd)
reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
Ph: +256 414 321 479
Mobile: +256 772 721 155
www.ugandaexclusivecamps.com

Bujagali Memories

In late 2011 the headwaters of the Nile River were flooded in preparation for the launch of the Bugagali Dam.  The area has become the reservoir for the new dam which began operation in February 2012.  This past weekend we had our first opportunity to see the headwater region since the flooding.  The water has risen several metres taking with it a number of rapids that used to be a part of The Nile including the famous grade 5 rapids Bujagali Falls.  At the moment things look slightly awkward as the rising water has engulfed the area.  Trees that once grew from the islands are now merely tree tops slowly succumbing to their new environment.  The immense sound of the water crashing can no longer be heard making the area very peaceful.  The reservoir now known as Lake Bujagali has the potential to become a hotspot for birding and sport fishing.  Looking down the river the Bujagali Dam can be seen in the background along with transmission towers and cables that disappear into the horizon to help supply the nation with much needed electricity.  Although Bujagali Falls no longer exists we recalled the good times we've had and will cherish for years to come.

RAFTING Our first encounter with the mighty Bujagali Falls was in 2002 on a raft.  It was the first time either of us had been rafting and we obviously weren't meant to stay in that raft for long!  As we manoeuvred through Bujagali our raft bounced around before being lifted high into the air and overturning, leaving us swimming through the rapids looking for the fastest way to get back into the raft.
CAMPING NEXT TO BUJAGALI At the time we didn't realize that camping next to Bujagali Falls and falling asleep to the roar of the cascading water would be a limited time offer.  This was the first place that we ever camped in Uganda so obviously the place holds special memories.  We will never forget waking up to the calls of the African Fish Eagle, the cool crisp air and the mist over the river.
THE ENTERTAINMENT Lastly, how can we forget those daredevils that would delight tourists by "rafting" the falls clutching onto the handle of a 20 litre plastic jerry can.  Anxious spectators wondering if this was safe would contribute money and then watch as the skill full swimmers would throw themselves to the mercy of the river.  Jumping into the water and then plunging over the falls, disappearing underwater and then popping up slightly downstream.  Proud of their feat the daredevils would come running back with  toothless grins, I suppose there was the odd encounter with a rock, but they never bothered to mention that and were eager to do it again. That wasn't the only entertainment at Bujagali Falls.  Every morning people from the surrounding villages would come in droves to watch kayakers and rafts full of people traverse through the feisty water erupting in cheers when they were successful and watching with slight terror when rafts would flip. For many, this appeared to be a highlight of their day. Bujagail Falls, thanks for the memories!! Please note that although you can no longer raft Bujagali Falls, the opportunity to experience Grade 5 rafting on The Nile is still possible below the Bujagali Dam.  We're only wondering if this means we have to pluck up the courage to raft The Nile again.

A Little R&R on Lake Kivu at Palm Garden Resort

Not far from the town of Gisenyi, on the shores of Lake Kivu you will find Palm Garden Resort, a quiet, relaxing oasis with manicured gardens along with comfortable accommodation.  Lake Kivu is considered to be one of Africa’s great lakes, and lies in the Albertine Rift Valley sharing the border of Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.  The lake is surrounded by hundreds of hills and mountains and the Palm Garden Resort is situated on one of them.

We arrive at Palm Garden Resort and are surrounded by beautiful plants and shrubs.  We follow a path that leads us to the main lodge and restaurant.  It has a very relaxed feel with fishing nets draped from the ceiling and gourd light fixtures hanging between them.  Mountain bikes hang from the back wall, plants are climbing up the columns and brightly colored cloths cover the tables.  There are lounge chairs as well as dining tables so whether you are having a meal or just relaxing, there is a comfortable place to sit.  The area is terraced so no matter where you sit, you can see out through the giant palm trees providing a great panoramic view of Lake Kivu.  The covered open air structure allows the gentle lakeside breezes to flow through and the mood is very relaxing with a mix of classic rock and blues playing in the background.  The bar is fully stocked with local beers, sodas and spirits.  In the evening, the area is softly lit and a fire crackles nearby, which provides for a comfortable gathering place with great ambiance.

Just outside the main lodge, large steps lead down the hill into the garden full of palm trees and rolling green grass.  Off to one side of the large garden and near the lake is our room, a round volcanic stone bungalow with glass paned double doors and windows that look out through the garden and across the lake.  The room décor reminds us that we are on a tropical beach but with an African twist.  Vibrant curtains frame the windows and painted multicolored geometric shapes decorate the closet.  African print lampshades rest on top of clay lamp stands on either side of the king size bed which is truly fit for a king.  The bed has been built quite high off the ground which gives a very palatial feel.   The floor is scattered with mats and underneath the large picture window are gourds of various shapes and sizes.  The décor is simple yet makes a statement.  



The bathroom is stunning.  Whenever I get into a room, I take a quick look around and then head straight for the bathroom; I assume it’s probably a girl thing.  My jaw drops and I say to my husband, “you have to see this!”  Off the side of the bungalow accessed through a door is a large open air bathroom with a shower, toilet and sink.  The large showerhead has great pressure and is nothing short of luxury either for a cool down in the heat of the midday sun or a hot shower under the midnight stars.

Palm Garden Resort offers a number of different accommodation options ranging from bungalows, double and single rooms as well as a campsite which is high up on the hill providing brilliant views.  If you feel like camping closer to the water, you can camp on the sand underneath the shade of palm trees.

Lake Kivu has several species of fish and every night the fishermen take to the lake for a local delicacy "Isambaza".  At dusk fisherman head out to work on the lake, using a system of three large wooden boats spaced several metres apart that are tethered together with makeshift walkways.  The boats are equipped with long poles that extended off the bow and stern of each boat, that suspend lanterns and nets.  The nets are slung below into the water and the Isambaza are attracted to the light from the lanterns dangling above.  In the morning the fisherman paddle their way home singing in rejoice about their catch and hard work.  Their songs also announce to the buyers and brokers to get ready to trade.



We watch as the fishermen of the night head straight to the market landing site and sell to the eager buyers and brokers.  While listening to the singing fisherman, we sit on the grass at the water’s edge under a thatched umbrella sipping Rwandan coffee grown and harvested from the shores of Lake Kivu served in beautiful handmade pottery from a local co-operative.  The waiter came to take our breakfast order however he didn’t have a menu which created some confusion as to what was available for breakfast resulting mostly from a language barrier since we don’t speak French or the local language.  Once he brought a menu, we were able to point and make an order for omelets which came to our garden table quickly accompanied with toast, preserves and juice.  We did notice that this confusion was not a reflection of poor service as many others around us who were able to order in the local language had no problems.  This is a good reason for us to brush up on our French for our next trip there.

Lunch and dinner is a la carte. The menu isn’t overly large but does offer a nice variety and what is on offer is done very well.  We tried several dishes including the goat brochette, beef brochette, chips, steak with mushroom sauce and the whole grilled tilapia which was by far our favorite.  We have eaten whole tilapia many times before, but have never had it prepared like this.  We would go back again just for that dish alone.  The food is grilled over a fire and the resulting flavor is outstanding.  African dishes are also available such as ugali, fufu and the local delicacy Isambaza.  The staff is not always overly attentive however they are never far away and ready to serve, you may just need to ask or give a simple wave to get their attention.

Palm Garden Resort caters for a variety of activities for every level of ambition.  If you are looking to relax and unwind, the thatch umbrellas next to the lake are for you.  The main lodge is also a great place to relax.  We spent an entire afternoon on the lounge chairs enjoying the breeze and the gentle sounds of the music drifting from the speakers while gazing out onto Lake Kivu wondering what mysteries it holds.

For those looking to get out and about to explore the local sites, the resort has a boat that can take you to nearby hot springs which claim to have healing properties however the local people often use it for cooking food.  You can also arrange for scenic trips on the lake to enjoy the abundant bird life in the area.  The Primus brewery is just down the road from the resort within walking distance and offers tours.  

The owner of the lodge is a bike enthusiast and has a great selection of good quality mountain bikes that are available for guests to explore the surrounding area.  The trail head for the newly opened Congo Nile Trail is in Gisenyi, not far from the Palm Garden Resort so if you’re planning to hike or bike the trail, the resort is a great starting point.

Palm Garden Resort is only a few kilometers from the DRC border and outdoor enthusiasts may want to take the opportunity to hike Nyiragongo volcano, one of the most active volcanoes in Africa with a lava lake in the summit crater.  If a big hike, isn’t something you are interested in you can still experience Nyiragongo in a different way.  On a clear night you can walk to the top of the hill near the resort and see the glow from the lava lake.  Unfortunately the weather conditions did not allow for this during our visit.
Palm Garden Resort is one of the easiest going places that we have ever stayed.  Everything about the place is relaxing and comfortable with friendly staff and great food.  For your next holiday consider this tropical paradise that is sure to melt your tension and stress away while enjoying the heart of Africa.

Getting There
Palm Garden Resort is easily accessible from Kigali by either road (2 ½ to 3 hour drive) or by air (30 minute flight) as well as from Volcanoes National Park (1 hour drive), so whether you are looking for a weekend getaway or a place to relax after seeing the gorillas, you don’t have far to travel to get to Palm Garden Resort.

Booking Information
+250 788306830 / +250 788834800
info@mercatorassistance.rw or vedaste@mercatorassistance.rw

Mud Bath Lake Edward Style

While visiting Ishasha, the southern sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park we ventured to the Lake Edward Flats, an opportunity best taken during the dry season.  The area is known to birders as there are numerous species that can be checked off your list in a very short amount of time.  As the name suggests it's flat and scattered about are several mud wallows with buffalo lazing in them.  What surprised us most was how unwilling the buffalo were to move as we approached.  I suppose it was hot and they were cool and comfortable.   We explored the area thoroughly, repeatedly stopping and scanning for the Shoebill, which continued to elude us.  What we were about to experience ranks high on the list of animal encounters in Africa for both of us.  The sun was setting and it was time that we should be moving on to get back to our camp before darkness was upon us.  As we were driving through the flats, we drove towards a mud wallow, which appeared to be just that, a mud wallow but as we came closer it exploded and gave both of us a fright.  What we saw, neither of us could believe.  A Cape Buffalo who had been almost fully submerged in the mud was standing next to his vacated premises staring at us wondering why we disturbed his mud bath.  We have never seen anything like it, the thick gray mud clinging to nearly every inch of his body.  His annoyance grew and he decided to run off in anger.  Unfortunately for him there was nowhere to hide.  As he ran as fast as he could through the flats we marvelled at this massive creature that was camouflaged in a mud bath, if he hadn't gotten annoyed we would have never known he was there.  Africa never ceases to amaze us!

The Grass isn't Greener - It's Brown!

It wasn't long ago that most of Kampala was tired of the rain, we were all waterlogged, soggy and dreaming of that big yellow ball in the sky to shine it's little heart out.  Well, be careful what you wish for!  Kampala has been experiencing day after day of sunshine and high temperatures for nearly six weeks and is now hoping and praying for rain.  After over four weeks, today the city experienced a light shower.  It probably wasn't the heavy downpour that most people were hoping for but hopefully it was enough to moisten the plants and subdue the dust for a short while.  For those reading this sitting in cold climates, the hot sunny days may seem like a dream come true but really, the grass isn't greener.....it's brown!

Crayfish from Lake Bunyonyi

In south western Uganda between Kibale and Kisori lies one of the deepest lakes in Africa, Lake Bunyonyi.  Its name means "the place of many little birds".  It doesn't take long to realize that this a suitable name for the place, however it was not the birds that got us excited about our visit there, but something that lives in the lake.  Lake Bunyonyi is one of the few places in Uganda where freshwater crayfish live.

We took the opportunity to enjoy the local fare and after visiting a fisherman we had a bucket full of live crayfish who were headed straight for a large steaming pot.  After cooking them, we piled them on some newspaper and began peeling and eating.  Their meat was so tender and delicious and during the gourmet experience, there was very little conversation between us.  Those little morsels of freshwater crayfish meat were a highlight and we know exactly what we will be dining on during our next visit to Lake Bunyonyi.

Lake Kivu - Rwanda

Considered to be one of Africa's Great Lakes, Lake Kivu lies in the Albertine Rift Valley on the border of Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.  The lake is surrounded by mountains lies in a rift valley that is being pulled apart making the lake one of the deepest in Africa.

We stayed in the small lakeside resort town of Gisenyi, a very relaxed and laid back town approximately three hours drive from Rwanda's capital Kigali.  Gisenyi is a trading hub between Goma in the DRC and Gisenyi in Rwanda and boats can be seen all day crossing the lake with fresh produce heading for the markets.

Lake Kivu has several fish species of fish and every night fisherman take to the lake for the local delicacy "Isambaza" a small fish introduced to the lake, more widely known as the Tanganika sardine which are cooked and eaten whole.  We witnessed as fisherman went out on their boats at dusk using a system of three large wooden boats connected together with walkways between them.  Large poles extend off the bow and stern which support nets that catch the fish and lanterns attract the fish.  In the morning the fisherman paddle back to shore singing in rejoice for their catch and offload them at the lakeside market from where they are sold to eager buyers.

Recently Lake Kivu was found to contain high levels of dissolved methane gas at depths of 300 metres and beyond.  Initially the gas was harvested for energy on a small scale but is now being extracted on a large scale using offshore barge platforms which will boost energy development for Rwanda and long term, will allow them to sell it to neighboring countries.

Lake Kivu is a tropical paradise that offers so many beach side resorts that are sure to melt your tension and stress while enjoying the heart of Africa.